crimsonecho
Self-Proclaimed Don Quixote
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I am using meanwell lpc 100-700. 6 of them will be placed outside the tent and each will drive 6 cobs.
Well we only use a blue spectrum for our grow , and given they are supplemental lights as. During light hours we have the full sunnacross the green houses. Yeilds have always been great.
We are putting in full spectrum cons in glass house 1 to test out the watts vs pounds ratio. 1200 amps worth of lights going in Dec. but so far we veg in 6500k and 3500k, clones under 3500 are bushier whereas 6500 are taller.
Once they move into the flowering cycle, the bushier plants don’t yield better then the taller ones but their terpenoids development side by side is 30% better. Terpenoids being the flavor profile, no effect is seen in thc. They are all within the sampling error range.
Example sour d: 6500 clone = 22%-25
3500 clone= 20-24%
Now smell and size comparison, the 3500 clones are dank almost gasoline.
6500 , large heavy nug but the smell side buy side , the 3500 ones is what I’d pick
See the 2 vids I’ll post and look at plant size. Vs cola
@heisenbubble @G gnome @jumpincactus @sixstring guys, little help here :Dmy light dep weed is going to come out better. you type all you want. i got the newest clones and best plant food. i set the price on medical marijuana not you or logic selling seeds. your a pedo ring to me to not have a forum thread with internet members. same as logic your a pedo.
From what we see, 3500 works for our environment, coastal with overcast days , natural humidity is slated in the 80s. Heat we never top 90. Salinas valley is our grow location so we found that 3500 works better for our clonesNice greenhouse, wish i was able to use the “ultimate growlight” too :)
So you are saying 3500K makes for bushier plants than 6000K in veg? And 3500K is overall have better terpenoid profile?
Nice i have high rh too but my temps are little lower now. Well 2x3000K 2x4000K and 2x6500K should be still pretty warm, well we’ll see i guess. If it doesn’t work i can change the cobs.From what we see, 3500 works for our environment, coastal with overcast days , natural humidity is slated in the 80s. Heat we never top 90. Salinas valley is over grow location so we found that 3500 works better for our clones
That’s the beauty with some of the new cobs in the pipeline, you’ll will have the ability to adjust spectrum with an app!!Nice i have high rh too but my temps are little lower now. Well 2x3000K 2x4000K and 2x6500K should be still pretty warm, well we’ll see i guess. If it doesn’t work i can change the cobs.
Ah havent really measured it yet, but i will.Nice! What’s it drawing , watt wise at the outlet?
Man that’s some nice output for the drawAh havent really measured it yet, but i will.
Tho when i was trying them out, series of 3 was pulling 84-85w from the wall. There are 6 series of 3. So it should be around 505-510w.
Each bar should pull 170w.
Running very soft. Brings up the efficiency. They are all top bin also.Man that’s some nice output for the draw
I'm considering a trial with the newer full spectrum cobs that run 50-100 watts each. The heatsink is the current problem, but something easily remedied eventually. On chip power makes it easy to make, with no drivers needed. At $3.25 each, you can't beat 'em. Not an easy task for someone with no experience, but not terribly difficult, either.
Soldering isn't a problem, and there are a lot of new multi frequency as well as discreet frequency cobs coming out daily, it seems. They all run pretty hot, but if you can deal with that, a cheap and powerful LED light is not far off. The latest one I'm checking out costs roughly 8 cents per watt, or about $8-9 for 100 watts. Discreet colors are sometimes higher but are available in very specific frequencies...roughly 9 different purple to UV-C choices and a dozen or so going towards the far IR. I love my HIDs but I'm going to supplement some dark spots.Well its hard to get a good datasheet of the pieces i can get my hands on. And with those driverless cobs you need to solder which is a pain in the ass.
But if you’re getting quality ones (don’t know if cree, osram, bridgelux or citizen makes these) and find a datasheet that presents a relative spectral distribution chart, then its ok.
Can’t say anything about the efficiency of those leds tho. Higher end drivers push mid 90s in efficiency usually.
Well led technology develops every day. If its putting out too much heat its not good tho. I’m running these on a 1,25cm heatsink. It is less than half inches. They are running pretty cool.Soldering isn't a problem, and there are a lot of new multi frequency as well as discreet frequency cobs coming out daily, it seems. They all run pretty hot, but if you can deal with that, a cheap and powerful LED light is not far off. The latest one I'm checking out costs roughly 8 cents per watt, or about $8-9 for 100 watts. Discreet colors are sometimes higher but are available in very specific frequencies...roughly 9 different purple to UV-C choices and a dozen or so going towards the far IR. I love my HIDs but I'm going to supplement some dark spots.
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