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A Few Questions Regarding My First Grow.

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A Few Questions Regarding My First Grow.

e_copp Jun 10, 2022 58 Replies 5,405 Views
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e_copp

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#41
Hey guys was just wondering if changing my soil to something else once I transplant is okay to do. Also even though this is an organic grow, will I need some type of nutrients or add anything to soil or is just water and light fine?
 
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Aqua Man

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#42
e_copp said:
Hey guys was just wondering if changing my soil to something else once I transplant is okay to do. Also even though this is an organic grow, will I need some type of nutrients or add anything to soil or is just water and light fine?
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t because it can cause uneven soil moisture. Personally i wait until next grow to change media
 
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#43
Day 12 since planted in soil. Haven't watered fully in a while... I'd say close to a week other than that misting I gave it. Debating if I go one more day before I do but this is how they look now.

Just turned the light on.

 
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#44
Hello everyone!

I was curious on when a good time to transplant would be?

Also curious about the power of my light and if there is a time when I should raise the brightness? (I have it ~24 inches above the tops of the plants and at 40% brightness, haven't changed)

I've heard of waiting till the first set of leaves hit or pass the sides of the cups but I wanted to ask on here.

I'm on day 16 after planting within soil. I've been keeping them with the 18/6 light cycle. I'm going to be moving 2/4 of them into 3 gallon fabric containers and then the other 2 I may try to just start putting outside due to lack of space. The outside ones will be put into 5 gallon containers that I have.



Thank you all in advance!
 
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Aqua Man

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#45
e_copp said:
Hello everyone!

I was curious on when a good time to transplant would be?

Also curious about the power of my light and if there is a time when I should raise the brightness? (I have it ~24 inches above the tops of the plants and at 40% brightness, haven't changed)

I've heard of waiting till the first set of leaves hit or pass the sides of the cups but I wanted to ask on here.

I'm on day 16 after planting within soil. I've been keeping them with the 18/6 light cycle. I'm going to be moving 2/4 of them into 3 gallon fabric containers and then the other 2 I may try to just start putting outside due to lack of space. The outside ones will be put into 5 gallon containers that I have.

View attachment 1255288View attachment 1255289

Thank you all in advance!
Click to expand...
Id give another week depending on growth. In soil id shoot to up pot once you need to water daily.
 
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GNick55

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#46
2 weeks
 
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MercDod

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#47
As for the light levels, I downloaded an app on my phone (Photone) that appears to do an adequate job of measuring the light intensity if I follow the directions and wrap a 1 " strip around the phone light sensor. Below are some general recommendations I found on the web.

Mind that PAR levels are measured as photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) generally in the unit of µmol/m²/s.
...
General Recommendations.
Growth PhasePAR Level (PPFD)
Seedling / Clone100 – 300
Vegetative250 – 600
Bloom / Flowering500 – 1050
 
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e_copp

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#48
MercDod said:
As for the light levels, I downloaded an app on my phone (Photone) that appears to do an adequate job of measuring the light intensity if I follow the directions and wrap a 1 " strip around the phone light sensor. Below are some general recommendations I found on the web.

Mind that PAR levels are measured as photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) generally in the unit of µmol/m²/s.
...
General Recommendations.
Growth PhasePAR Level (PPFD)
Seedling / Clone100 – 300
Vegetative250 – 600
Bloom / Flowering500 – 1050
Click to expand...
Ahhh I can see I will need a better light once they are older. It seems to be alright for this stage (Right around 140-160) at 60% power but will definitely need a more powerful light.

Maybe 2 of the FECIDA light that I have will help with this instead of a more powerful new one?

I'm leaning towards a mars hydro TS1000 but I also am thinking of just waiting till next grow and getting a much more powerful light for the entirety of a grow. I have seen some reviews of people growing successfully with the low end light I have so I may just ride it out and learn as much as I can from here.

Thank you very much for this recommendation!
 
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e_copp

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#49
I had a question regarding changing the light cycle.

Since I am going to try and move two of the seedlings outside I want to adjust the amount of light they would get inside to mimic outside light hours.
These are autos so this is feasible? I'm going with lowering the day cycle to about 15/9 to mimic that of outside and I would adjust the light timing over the course of a week or so?

Just wanted some input from you guys to see what you all think as you guys have been a huge help to me. I've learned a lot!

Thank you!
 
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MercDod

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#50
It appears you are basing the time from sunrise to sunset which is not a true measurement as the perceivable light to the plant starts earlier and last longer. I dont think you would get the best results with this tactic and most growers want the best weed/yield possible (more photosynthesis). However there your plants to do with as you wish.
 
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GNick55

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#51
agree with @MercDod autos need as much light as you can give them until the finish so don’t give less light..
 
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SmokinJo421

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#52
mysticepipedon said:
You should also consider turning the light up or getting it closer to the plants. Seedlings stretch like that because they aren't getting enough light.
Click to expand...
Using more blue or metal halide will give you more of a bush and tighter internodes
 
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#53
5 days since I transplanted from cups into 3 gallon containers. Moving 2 outside soon... will start to slowly adjust them to sunlight and I'll see how they do. Only doing this because of budget/space and curious to see how they do outside despite starting indoors. This is my first grow nonetheless!

Right before I transplanted I picked up a few things:
- FoxFarms Nutrients
- Spider Farmer SF1000D
- pH meter checker and up and down liquid to adjust
- 3 gal fabric pots


Although I wasn't planning on it, I took a turn and started using some nutrients because some of the plants looked sick. I initially thought that it could be a pH problem as I was just using tap and letting it sit. However I started testing pH and have been consistent with a pH of about 6.4. Then I started thinking about the nutrients in the soil and I was thinking they could use some other nutrients like phosphorous (my soil doesn't have a lot of P) as the symptoms were seeming like a phosphorus deficiency although I am not sure.

I'm curious about one of my plants (Red tag), the bottom leaves completely kicked the chair but the top leaves look really good.

Anyway let me know how you guys think they look!



 
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SmokinJo421

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#54
Did you get fox farm 3pack or individual bottles?
If you have city water you shouldn't need the pH up.
Let your water sit out for 24 hours so chlorine evaporates.
You should start to feed they lookin a lil yellow. Return the pH up & get some Superthrive. Also are u gonna let em stay in the 3 gallon pots? During up pot process you want to stay in plastic until you reach the desired root ball you want & stable plant.
However you can put that cloth pot right into a bigger pot and it will grow roots rite thru the bag. My concern is the tap root being restricted to grow through the bag.
 
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#55
Water to saturate the pots
 
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#56
Aqua Man said:
Water to saturate the pots
Click to expand...
Yess & introduce some food at 1/4 strength to start.
Less is more
 
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weed420420420420420

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#57
add a little micorhizzae in with the water.
 
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e_copp

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#58
SmokinJo421 said:
Did you get fox farm 3pack or individual bottles?
If you have city water you shouldn't need the pH up.
Let your water sit out for 24 hours so chlorine evaporates.
You should start to feed they lookin a lil yellow. Return the pH up & get some Superthrive. Also are u gonna let em stay in the 3 gallon pots? During up pot process you want to stay in plastic until you reach the desired root ball you want & stable plant.
However you can put that cloth pot right into a bigger pot and it will grow roots rite thru the bag. My concern is the tap root being restricted to grow through the bag.
Click to expand...
I purchased the Fox Farm 3 pack.

No city water here. I pH regular tap water at 7.22 and used some pH down.
I started my first feeding yesterday. I started with 1/2 the recommended for general feeding but I'll lower to 1/4.

That's pretty cool that the roots would grow right through the bag. I believe these will be there final containers at least for the ones that I'm keeping inside. I decided to transplant because they were very stunted and showing signs of stress as well as a few buddies of mine recommended I do so. The roots weren't as developed as I would of hoped but alas I'm learning as I go.

I've been trying to keep a consistent 4-5 days between watering's as that's when the small cups were drying out in the beginning and then it started to be every day or so they needed water. With these bigger pots I'm going to need to adjust my watering times because of the size change... still trying to dial that in.

I was also wondering, If I'm watering to saturate the entire pot should I try to measure out the amount of water it takes to saturate all 4 pots?
Then after my next watering once I feed again I can add the proportional amount of nutrients to that water?
 
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SmokinJo421

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#59
e_copp said:
I purchased the Fox Farm 3 pack.

No city water here. I pH regular tap water at 7.22 and used some pH down.
I started my first feeding yesterday. I started with 1/2 the recommended for general feeding but I'll lower to 1/4.

That's pretty cool that the roots would grow right through the bag. I believe these will be there final containers at least for the ones that I'm keeping inside. I decided to transplant because they were very stunted and showing signs of stress as well as a few buddies of mine recommended I do so. The roots weren't as developed as I would of hoped but alas I'm learning as I go.

I've been trying to keep a consistent 4-5 days between watering's as that's when the small cups were drying out in the beginning and then it started to be every day or so they needed water. With these bigger pots I'm going to need to adjust my watering times because of the size change... still trying to dial that in.

I was also wondering, If I'm watering to saturate the entire pot should I try to measure out the amount of water it takes to saturate all 4 pots?
Then after my next watering once I feed again I can add the proportional amount of nutrients to that water?
Click to expand...
If you are using catch trays 4 the water the plant will suck up all the water it needs.
Whats your final ph aftr the adjustment ?
Tap water has chlorine wich can fry the root tips
 
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