I don't think it looks bad. That's just my opinion.

Don't see anything wrong, either. But here's some info for ya

Have u pH ed your soil.?

Hossgrows said:

Don't see anything wrong, either. But here's some info for ya

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I see a sneak a toke and a badass roach clip in that pic. Haha

Had to look up Biotabs, interesting product. Top it with a little compost or earthworm castings. Don't need much. And then top it again when they begin to flower. They don't look bad.

newbieAF said:

Hi guys.

So i've just startet my first grow and i went with the GP from fastbuds. Growing in 50/50 soil perlite with biotabs. I'm currently at day 15 from seedling clearing the soil. But im a little worried im running into some Iron issues... Am i correct? Way off ? Or just a bit paranoid ?

I'd really appreciate the help.

View attachment 2508355

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I see what you're talking about and if you throw it under extra UV it probably stands out more. I see it with mine sometimes at a similar age. Not really a deficiency, it's more like they're just now eating solid foods and figuring it all out and it all works out... unless I start intervening and adding what I think they're missing. Trust your medium. If anything, make sure it doesn't become overfed.

It looks okay to me. I'd be happy with that plant and can't think of anything I'd add. Phenotypes vary in many characteristics like color, leaf shape, etc., so if we haven't grown a strain before, we just have to watch it to see how it wants to grow, unless the seed seller has pictures for comparison. Even those can differ from what we have in our tent. They adapt to their environment, as well. So, I say keep going. You're doing fine. Then post again as your plants go through their life stages so folks here who love to grow can provide advice, if needed.

God no it would be hard to make an iron deficiency let alone a picture of only that on a plant.

Don't chase single nutrient deficiencies, either it wants fertilizer or it doesn't.

Hossgrows said:

Have u pH ed your soil.?

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I i did not.. When using Biotabs, apparently you dont have to ph anything. It sounded so easy, so i figured it would be perfect for a beginner. I live outside the US and out water is somewhere around 6.5 - 7.0.

Week4Bytch said:

Had to look up Biotabs, interesting product. Top it with a little compost or earthworm castings. Don't need much. And then top it again when they begin to flower. They don't look bad

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It just seems so simple. Im sure you can get bigger yields with other brands, but i figured i'd be a great starting point.

Ninjadogma said:

I see what you're talking about and if you throw it under extra UV it probably stands out more. I see it with mine sometimes at a similar age. Not really a deficiency, it's more like they're just now eating solid foods and figuring it all out and it all works out... unless I start intervening and adding what I think they're missing. Trust your medium. If anything, make sure it doesn't become overfed.

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Thanks bud, really appreciate it. That helped me relax a little. Being the first time and everything seemed to go along great, it just felt a bit too easy, so when i noticed the brighter new leaves, i thought uuuh oooh, here we go..

Again, thanks bud !

LoveGrowingIt said:

It looks okay to me. I'd be happy with that plant and can't think of anything I'd add. Phenotypes vary in many characteristics like color, leaf shape, etc., so if we haven't grown a strain before, we just have to watch it to see how it wants to grow, unless the seed seller has pictures for comparison. Even those can differ from what we have in our tent. They adapt to their environment, as well. So, I say keep going. You're doing fine. Then post again as your plants go through their life stages so folks here who love to grow can provide advice, if needed.

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Thank you so much bud, i really appreciate it. Just having people who knows what they're doing, taking time to help out is awesome .. i'll make sure to post a few new pictures in a few days.

newbieAF said:

Thank you so much bud, i really appreciate it. Just having people who knows what they're doing, taking time to help out is awesome .. i'll make sure to post a few new pictures in a few days.

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They looking fine to me as well mate

newbieAF said:

I i did not.. When using Biotabs, apparently you dont have to ph anything. It sounded so easy, so i figured it would be perfect for a beginner. I live outside the US and out water is somewhere around 6.5 - 7.0.

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Water and soil pH is totally different
Id check the soil, it's the heart of the plant, water is it's blood. A bad heart won't pump good blood. In short.

Hossgrows said:

Water and soil pH is totally different
Id check the soil, it's the heart of the plant, water is it's blood. A bad heart won't pump good blood. In short.

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Got it, i'll go buy a soil tester tomorrow. Thanks

I cannot talk about pH without mentioning alkalinity.

Two acidic solutions ph 3,

Solution A tests at a hundred ppms
Solution B tests at ten thousand ppms

Which one will burn you if you pour on your skin?

pH is only half of a chemical story we also want to know the power that solution has to change burn or do anything which helps if you understand alkalinity.

Then we can move on to buffers, soil is buffered which non technically means if you add acid or alkaline solutions to it the soil will neutralise this. The soil life is also a buffer and soil has a cation exchange so it can hold or release elements too.

Lime in the soil neutralises any acids, happens reasonably quickly, pour sulphuric acid on limestone and wait a while to see this type of reaction.

We can also make conjugate bases and acids that neutralise everything and again act as a buffer. This the main principle behind pH stable ferts in hydro.

a substance formed by the reversible combination of two or more others.


a mathematical value or entity having a reciprocal relation with another.

Each buffer has some type of ionisation constant, add enough of acid or alkali and you break the buffer i.e. use all its power. Soil will buffer for months no problems be hard to break or change anything especially with the low ppms we give in water and feeds.

One issue old timers found is that high water ppms are usually due to calcium and a lesser extent magnesium and at over a few hundred those regular waterings will add too much alkaline substances and push the pH too high. We simply wanted to get our water report and look at the total ppms for reference, more than 300-500 becoming problematic by the end of the grow. A ppm meter under your tap will also explain what you have to a good extent but a water report tells you exact ppms of everything in it much better.

As long as your calmag content of water wasn't high pH was ultra irrelevant at these low ppms.

I use to be able to explain better but if your thinking of messing with soil pH the answer is don't and it's not your problem.

As to why your plant has (small) issues is just down to light wind watering and nutrition in most of these situations.

Boy did I go down many rabbit holes with humidity pH calmag silicon etc etc etc. Once you get out of all those holes you realise what's really important and how all that pH stuff is just pointless even dangerous to growers trying to improve.

Take it with a pinch of salt I'm old and chemistry biology and physics were much stronger points years ago, no arguments from me if you do want to pH water and soil and feeds just won't solve these small issues or coincide with a positive change making you thing ph was the original problem.

50/50 mix isn't one for me, too dry and airy at points maybe, not something I liked much.

Auto water system and irrigation, prefer to be hands on and give good waters not drip or soak.

Can't tell if repot would help.

Looks a little too short and bunched up, possible environment changes to get it growing up better. Wind always kills me till I get it to good enough levels, takes a few goes to get spot on.

Idk I hate to give actual advice but I'm seeing things you could work towards, your never going to hit everything perfect to start unless your just dead lucky.

Like ph I also ignore humidity, can throw that of the list of issues too, plants a highly evolved organism it adjusts to all humidity no issues there or anything we need to do.

My tool tray

I can see Ireland on a very very clear day from where I live.