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I reently blew a fuse in my Artica chiller but fortunately I am like a hawk on shit like that and I think it was down for lees than 15 minutes before I noticed. I was mid way thru haevest so i didn't sweat it.
Replaced a fuse and off to the races
Tex
here's a related question; if I'm running a lot of water in my rdwc setup, will it act as a temperature stabilizer to some degree? I have 2 separate 24 site rdwc setups with 5 gallon buckets, something like 75 gallons each total. one is in veg, the other in bloom, so in theory, one gets to cool off for 12 hours a day, and the other will be on a 18/6 cycle. Would it make any difference? My chiller is a 2 ton chillking window unit...
Nice, you have plenty of chiller no doubt. Yes your water volume will certainly effect the cooling of the room, I have experienced this for myself. When you say "one cools off for 12 hrs" that's not really how it works. With the chiller that you have your water temperature in your rdwc system should barely fluctuate. Let say you keep your water at 68 degrees and your rooms at 78 degrees. This is of course a differential of 10 degrees which means that your rdwc, if uninsulated, will be absorbing heat from your room. If your chiller is undersized then this could be a bad thing, but you should have plenty of cooling power to keep your system chilled and to pull some heat out of the room as well. I'm assuming that it isn't installed yet, if you wouldn't mind starting a new thread showing your install of the chiller would probably help a few people out.
I had a couple of questions for you about your system.
Where are you installing the chiller? Indoor, outdoor, window mount?
What size res?
What size pump?
Are you using stainless steel coils?
I've responded in depth in another of your threads, but I think I left some stuff out.
1. The chiller is window mount on the main floor of the building.
2. The res is a 55 gallon food grade drum. I set it up so I can run it full, or as low as 1/4. What do you think is best? The water cooled website suggests running less capacity...
3. pump is a 1/2 hp flojet, heavy bastard!
4. Copper coils for AC, 1/2" o.d. they sit in the control bucket of each rdwc, getting lots of waterflow over them.
I need to mention that the chiller is doing double duty; it's cooling the hydro systems, but it's also cooling the veg room and the bloom room. The bloom room has 8 x 1000w 'ocho' hoods, air cooled with air coming from outtside the sealed room, and the hot air is pushed outside. This air, I emphasize, is NOT mixing with the air in the sealed room, its just passes thru to remove heat.
2. the res. is sitting next to a new, well insulated hot water heater, even so I'll get some insulation. Wondering what if anything changes if I run glycol in the system? 3. Yes, Flowtec, sorry. 4. Then it looks like I'll need to upgrade soon! 5. Thanks for confirming my suspicions re. the water in the hydro systems. Now, will the large amount of water in those hydro systems act like something of a buffer or thermal reservoir relative to the water flowing through the rest of the system?
I'm sorry to hear that. Tex is right, a high heat shut off would have saved the garden. This device montiors room temperature and will turn off anything plugged in to it. You would plug in your ballast or trigger cord. Wether its a chiller or a/c system you could have the same results. Everyone out there needs to have all safety devices in place because unfortunately every piece of equipment will eventually fail, even the best stuff out there.
People using a chiller for the UC with a separate cooling system for the room have to be more careful. If the chiller for the UC goes out it will not trip a standard overheat sensor, you would need to have an overheat sensor in the UC that can cut off the lights if the water temperature starts to rise. None of the standard overheat sensors are designed to be used in water. You can seal the probe end or buy one designed to be submerged.
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