NJPBG
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Don't hang your head over the 390w/2000w.
The "2000w" claim is often based on that a lamp has for example 200 diodes with a max capacity of 10w.
Either way, if you push it to the max capacity, it will produce more heat than can be led away from the chip and the working temperature would reach harming levels for the LEDs which would result in a very short lifespan.
I just checked "Bestva 2000w" out on AMZ and actually counted the LEDs, there seem to be only 19*10, so more like "1900w" from his 10W/diode claim. I might need glasses though, haha.
From what I've understood, about 700 "real" LED-watts from good lights will correspond somewhat to 1000W HPS. Can vary some, depending on the light source and its efficacy. At least from what I've read, but that's a weak pointer for guidance.
Good luck with the growing!
I run 9 quantum board 132’s, currently running 590 watts. I have yet to pull less than 2 lbs, and hope to achieve closer to 2g per w. That’s in a 4x4 tent with 2 plants. It’s a different game. I run mine currently at 30 days into flower with the lights 5” from highest point of the canopy. I’ll snap a short video. This is not expensive to build. The boards where just on sale 4 for 100$. Drivers trust I run OUTSIDE the tent are cheap ( all 3 are just over 100$ total ... depending on current pricing maybe up to 120$ and that’s for 9 boards).
View attachment 849895
Ill add a link to some basic build stuff at the bottom
I'm not 100% where youd like me to start but if I had to do it over again I may still use the eb2 strips, but I like the samsung stuff better. They've gotten a few extra strips since I've done research on them but I believe the same diodes (someone correct me if I'm wrong please.)
Do you have any idea about what spectrums you want to run? Is it a full cycle light or are you going to veg and flower under separate lights?
For building supplies I believe most people are still using c channel and square aluminum stock (I cant come up with the name.)
You can get that at any hardware store but I saved about 50% by going to a shop that just sells metals versus home depot.
If you're in America you may get hit hard I haven't bought aluminum since the 20% tariff on Canada.
http://ledgardener.com/diy-guides/
Also you can check out growmau5 on YouTube. He makes some solid videos teaching the basics but they aren't the most dense info you'll get. Long series but it taught me a lot
Oh and I'm a newer grower, I'm only on my 4th cycle and only one psychical build. Guys like @sixstring even though his thing is COBs may be able to help more. Ask anything and I'll do my best to help though:)
What kind of timers do you all use for these drivers and strips/boards? Is it built in to the driver or will I need a separate wired 15amp timer?
Separate 15amp OR you can add a electric potentiometer (my god I cannot remember the name someone help please lol I'm not even stoned!) Some of those have built in timers. Depends on the driver too.
Potentiometer- dimmer-electric motor control are all names used to perform that function. I run my power from the driver to pot then through multimeter display then to the lights. The drivers are plugged into a 15 amp timer.
@NJPBG
If I could remake my setup I would've ran the 2 foot (22" actually) strips. The reason why is the 42" strips flex like crazy. Also you would be able to be as bland or as creative as you wanted to really easily in the lighting configuration i.e. leave a 1sq ft gap for UV bulbs in the center of a 4x4 or whatever...
This is 3500k spectrum only because this is what I used. I may have played with 2 or 3 different spectrums if I knew what I know now, but also maybe not. Just simpler I can add on at any point without adding more than maybe $50 at a time.
So I'm not going to tell you item for item what to buy I don't like spending others money but I'll answer whatever you want. Please remember that I chose 3500k and I'm happy with it but there are other options that seemingly would work great as well.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3/976-1734-ND/7907663
After you checkout this link please read the data sheet and try to figure it out. It may be a struggle but by the time you understand it you'll probably be way more confident in what you're purchasing.
Led drivers are something you really should understand a little about before you purchase. I went with a CV or constant voltage driver, it honestly seems safer to me than the CC stuff with thermal run away, but that's not a common thought. Most people use CC or constant current, atleast with COBs. If you go on other forums I think constant voltage or CV is more popular got strips. I could try to explain the differences but in afraid I would miss too much. Growmau5 on YouTube has a single video on cc vs CV or maybe 2 videos... they're a great introduction.
I'm showing a hlg185h just for an example. If you choose to get the hlg 185 that drives at 1.050 Amps you'll run pretty much 1 watt per volt. Watts are determined by volts multiplied by amps. If you choose a 0.7 amp drive current you'll be able to fit more strips per driver and it will use the same watts. There's 2 major benefits to running your lights soft, one is less heat, 2 is you have a larger light coverage area, and 3 is there's an increased light efficiency when you run them soft.
That's not to say using a 1.4amp drive current is bad but you'll fit fewer strips per driver, each light will run a little harder, yadda yadda. I haven't actually seen any of these lights fail from running them in their mid range I'm sure somebody has thrown some voltage they weren't designed for and that probably didn't go great.
Basically what I'm trying to say is there's no wrong way as long as you put the proper driver to the lights.
Here. You can see the bridgelux data sheet showing that the 22" strips @.7amps draws a peak slightly over 20volts. That's probably way in the safe range of the driver overdrive or whatever it is, but if you go to a hlg185 it has a peak voltage of 24 and has a minimum of 12. Well within your range, the driver should be able to adapt to your LEDs as long as its within its range (it shouldn't give the full 24volts again if I'm wrong someone please correct me.)
At 1.4amps the same led strip draws 21.6v which again may be within the over ride of the hlg185h-20v driver but I would jump to the 24.
Sorry I'm not the greatest at explaining stuff I'm trying lol!
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