Junk
- 1,754
- 263
Are u some sort of evil genius?Totally feasible. Too bad those new Crees are on ceramic substrate. CXAs were on copper so you could reflow them and drive them much harder this way. But yes, liquid cooling is easily achievable. Are you thinking of your own water blocks or something readily available? How about liquid nitrogen? How crazy can you go?
Are u some sort of evil genius?
the whole point of leds is efficiency, doesn't driving them harder decrease efficiency?
how much power does that use compared to a hyper 212 though? the LED itself is running at peak efficiency, but shouldn't the power used to obtain that also count in the efficiency equation?Not if Tj stays in range. Keep the junction temperature low enough and you can drive them as hard as you wish. Just like CPU. Fuck it you can use readymade water cooling sistem for computers.
This one from Zalman looks sexy
View attachment 523768
View attachment 523769
Are u some sort of evil genius?
The way they are grading the optimal efficiency vs afaik, is light produced vs. heat output. If you control the heat, you can drive the light harder but it's not producing more heat. We are exerting an external cooling force on the led, so in theory, if optimal temp is x, and we can get it to run at temp x, but increase the light output.
I know it can physically be done Toaster (I was hoping you would chime in on this one) like you said it's no different than a CPU, which is what I have experience with.
But would the benefits be there? I guess meaning; it works in theory...anyone with experience think it will work in real life as described?
Sounds like the 3590 won't work with this method. Have another suggestion that would be as good?
I can go pretty crazy, my initial thought would be to use a car radiator. But I would rather not go the liquid nitrogen route. I was thinking of doing a bar setup almost the same as Seaslug's. Same parts, just more LEDs.
Awesome work palI'm comming myself from a computer world so that's the knowledge I'm using when were talking LED.
The fact is as long as the junction temperature stays let's say at 85°C (Cree bins their emmiters at this temperature) the efficiency will not suffer. Keeping it lower means higher efficiency (look at Crees datasheets, there are graphs for different efficiency at different temperatures). The biggest problem is the bond between emmiter and cooling surface. Using thermal compounds or even thermal glues presents the bottleneck in thermal management. You can have a super duper copper core heatsink but when you use crappy thermal past or glue, or apply a thick layer your killing thermal mannagement. Thats why I was mentioning reflow technique with LEDs as it is often used in world of flashlights. For example XP-G2 is rated for 1.5A current. Cam you imagine driving it at 5A? Well, it's been done before. If you're willing to waste your time on learning about different crazy approches at thermal mannagement I suggest wisiting Candlepower forums. I spent a few years there learning about all sorts of stuff and building flashlights. I even built a flashlight with a Cree MC-E running at 3.5A.
3590 or other CXB series COBs are on ceramic substrate, but that doesn't mean they can't be hard overdriven because of that. We just need to look outside of the box. Read this and youll see where I'm going with this:
http://www.s-bond.com/blog/2011/04/04/ceramic-metal-bonding-part-one/
So I'd say everything is possible with some research and will.
I just built a light system with 4 3070 running at 75W each. The heatsink barely gets warm to touch so I'd say I did a good job. Its a bit different approach than seaslug and SupraSPL are using but works great.
View attachment 523808
View attachment 523810
View attachment 523811
View attachment 523813
Will have to look deeper into ceramic to copper bonding and build a unit with a heavily overdrive COB just for testin purposes. Mine 3070 are rated for 1900mA but are running at 2100mA ( 2500mA max?) And those heatsinks are rated for 90W. Like I said, ju can hold your finger on that copper core and it wont burn so I'd say everything is serving its purpose.
So you're are just using box CPU coolers...liquid cooled would be an instant adaptation.I'm comming myself from a computer world so that's the knowledge I'm using when were talking LED.
The fact is as long as the junction temperature stays let's say at 85°C (Cree bins their emmiters at this temperature) the efficiency will not suffer. Keeping it lower means higher efficiency (look at Crees datasheets, there are graphs for different efficiency at different temperatures). The biggest problem is the bond between emmiter and cooling surface. Using thermal compounds or even thermal glues presents the bottleneck in thermal management. You can have a super duper copper core heatsink but when you use crappy thermal past or glue, or apply a thick layer your killing thermal mannagement. Thats why I was mentioning reflow technique with LEDs as it is often used in world of flashlights. For example XP-G2 is rated for 1.5A current. Cam you imagine driving it at 5A? Well, it's been done before. If you're willing to waste your time on learning about different crazy approches at thermal mannagement I suggest wisiting Candlepower forums. I spent a few years there learning about all sorts of stuff and building flashlights. I even built a flashlight with a Cree MC-E running at 3.5A.
3590 or other CXB series COBs are on ceramic substrate, but that doesn't mean they can't be hard overdriven because of that. We just need to look outside of the box. Read this and youll see where I'm going with this:
http://www.s-bond.com/blog/2011/04/04/ceramic-metal-bonding-part-one/
So I'd say everything is possible with some research and will.
I just built a light system with 4 3070 running at 75W each. The heatsink barely gets warm to touch so I'd say I did a good job. Its a bit different approach than seaslug and SupraSPL are using but works great.
View attachment 523808
View attachment 523810
View attachment 523811
View attachment 523813
Will have to look deeper into ceramic to copper bonding and build a unit with a heavily overdrive COB just for testin purposes. Mine 3070 are rated for 1900mA but are running at 2100mA ( 2500mA max?) And those heatsinks are rated for 90W. Like I said, ju can hold your finger on that copper core and it wont burn so I'd say everything is serving its purpose.
The whole point of the heatsink is to transfer heat no? The principle being that you are giving the heat more metal to offset it, and more surface area to radiate and cool itself.
I was going to use the .485 ones from heat sink USA.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?