A
Aslan
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Thanks for your input! I haven't found any decently priced LEDs that ship to where I live so CFLs are the simplest and cheapest option for me.That's a nice start, keep it simple...have patients.
For a closet heat and fresh air will be most important.
So a good air circulation system for one, doesn't have to be that much.
Especially if adding more lighting. An Led light is ideal for closets. Mars 300 watt (150) true watts will be less if not equal heat than a 70 watt clf. $70 on amazon.
For the watering, it will be best to figure out a tray system so your cloth pots can sit on a raised platform so water drains but does not get sukt back up. A turkey baster can suck up any excess water.
always think of "what ifs" what if you had water spill or a light go out... Keep electrical cords tidy, water catch tray for pot, spare light... check your grow area when light is off...no light leaks,no led power lights either.
with Autos, do not interrupt the dark period or stress them.
Moving the plants like your doing will stress them and disturb the roots too much.
The seedlings once popped should have its own light, not a powerful one either 10-20 watts 8-10 inches away.
watch the leaves on seedling, if they are stretching...light not enough or close enough.
When they get second set of leaves you can inclamate them to a stronger light, starting the light higher at first then lower as needed.
About the Autos 45-55 grow time, is that from sprout? if thats so, that is not much time to have a veg and flower time... i've heard of 42 days flower time, but that was not on an auto.
Is this the same strain as your first grow? how long from first set of true leaves to start flowering?
also its sizes at flower set and finish.
That's a lot of great tips! Sorry for being slow, but I use my pH measurer on the water before I water the plants.. I thought runoff was just runoff and figured that if the water wasn't at a good pH level when it gets in the soil it would cause lockout. I never heard of measuring runoff pH.. I don't know what EC is.I like it,
But throw the PH pen out the window growing in soil.Your wasting your time and especially with BioBiz your gonna screw up.Ph pens are for hydro and fish tanks.Your PH runoff will be all over the place depending on how much water you collect.You can have a PH swing by as much as 2 to 3 from a cup of water to a half gallon of runoff.Same with EC.You will be chasing your tail.
Also your nute strength should match the light intensity.I never understood why people say not to feed plants for 3 weeks.Thats just crazy to me.I put my autos IN DWC under 1000 W hids and push 700 PPM after the get the first set of leaves and they go APESHIT.
Watch your plants man they will tell you what makes them happy.Practice watching the plants and you will turn out to be a good grower.Dont get wrapped up in formulas and all that BS.what one guy feeds his plants might not work for you.Its all about environment and lighting spectrum vs Wattage.One formula will never fit all.
Get good at knowing what your plants want and you will know when the shit hits he fan how to correct the problem.
When i grew in soil i would always start with 1/4 strength everything and watch the plants and see how they responded.Watch for Ram Horns(the claw) and dark green leaves.Usually deficiencies show up in soil because of soil PH.Its always best to amend the soil a month before you grow.You should be amending soil now for your next grow with lime and such.chemical PH adjusters aren't gonna do jack squat in soil to adjust the PH.All them ph probes are Bogus.If they worked farmers wouldn't send soil samples to the co-op to get tested.
9 times out of ten if you start with a quality dirt like fox farms or roots organic you can get through a good 3 month auto grow without any lock outs.Throwing everything under the sun at a plant aint gonna do shit if the PH is out of range.
Use regular tap water and use 1/4 strength recommended and work up and you will be fine.If you notice any tip burn or the plant doing weird shit back off a few days and don't add nothing.Just plain water till she improves.If she responds well than keep that up for a week or two and go to 1/3 or 1/2 strength.
Always and i mean always learn to be a proactive grower not a reactive grower.Know what your plants will need before you give it to them and you will grow some nice green.
One other thing look into CMH setups and forget that LED.Unless your gonna go with a quality COB setup the CMH is gonna be the real deal.research them on this forum and you will see what im talking about
I had images for think now can't edit it, delete it or see any images in this post..?so here's my setup right now, I got an ugly but secure bunch of cables up and away from both the lights and the floor. I have the lamps held up by a rope (a thin but durable one) which ensures that the cable isn't bearing the load of the lamp. It's a very simple and easy setup.
I use regular soil in the coco pot, I'm starting to see the seed pop up to the surface, I put a plastic bag over the pot, air sealed.I'm not a fan of coco pots, What are you using in your pot? straight coco fiber?
I prefer peat pellets, or a peat mixture in peat pot. works better for me.
The saran wrap cover is to maintain moisture for the seedling, I have done it with success. It's kinda like the seed in a plastic baggy germ technic.
It might be relative to how dry your climate is in your area and grow room.
If possible try a few seeds at a time, more chance of success.
I agree with most of what you say here definitely but do see a couple things not quite right. JustI like it,
But throw the PH pen out the window growing in soil.Your wasting your time and especially with BioBiz your gonna screw up.Ph pens are for hydro and fish tanks.Your PH runoff will be all over the place depending on how much water you collect.You can have a PH swing by as much as 2 to 3 from a cup of water to a half gallon of runoff.Same with EC.You will be chasing your tail.
Also your nute strength should match the light intensity.I never understood why people say not to feed plants for 3 weeks.Thats just crazy to me.I put my autos IN DWC under 1000 W hids and push 700 PPM after the get the first set of leaves and they go APESHIT.
Watch your plants man they will tell you what makes them happy.Practice watching the plants and you will turn out to be a good grower.Dont get wrapped up in formulas and all that BS.what one guy feeds his plants might not work for you.Its all about environment and lighting spectrum vs Wattage.One formula will never fit all.
Get good at knowing what your plants want and you will know when the shit hits he fan how to correct the problem.
When i grew in soil i would always start with 1/4 strength everything and watch the plants and see how they responded.Watch for Ram Horns(the claw) and dark green leaves.Usually deficiencies show up in soil because of soil PH.Its always best to amend the soil a month before you grow.You should be amending soil now for your next grow with lime and such.chemical PH adjusters aren't gonna do jack squat in soil to adjust the PH.All them ph probes are Bogus.If they worked farmers wouldn't send soil samples to the co-op to get tested.
9 times out of ten if you start with a quality dirt like fox farms or roots organic you can get through a good 3 month auto grow without any lock outs.Throwing everything under the sun at a plant aint gonna do shit if the PH is out of range.
Use regular tap water and use 1/4 strength recommended and work up and you will be fine.If you notice any tip burn or the plant doing weird shit back off a few days and don't add nothing.Just plain water till she improves.If she responds well than keep that up for a week or two and go to 1/3 or 1/2 strength.
Always and i mean always learn to be a proactive grower not a reactive grower.Know what your plants will need before you give it to them and you will grow some nice green.
One other thing look into CMH setups and forget that LED.Unless your gonna go with a quality COB setup the CMH is gonna be the real deal.research them on this forum and you will see what im talking about
only wasting time if a soil grower is growing in super soil, no till, or using knf techniques. Otherwise yes even in soil PHing is important especially with bottled nutes.But throw the PH pen out the window growing in soil.Your wasting your time
Okay this is so far from the truth, yes with roots organics but fox farms is garbage. They truly produce poor soil and often times now a days have fungus gnats. My local hydro shop got rid of them recently because of how bad every batch has been coming out recently.9 times out of ten if you start with a quality dirt like fox farms
I agree with most of what you say here definitely but do see a couple things not quite right. Just
only wasting time if a soil grower is growing in super soil, no till, or using knf techniques. Otherwise yes even in soil PHing is important especially with bottled nutes.
Okay this is so far from the truth, yes with roots organics but fox farms is garbage. They truly produce poor soil and often times now a days have fungus gnats. My local hydro shop got rid of them recently because of how bad every batch has been coming out recently.
I agree with most of what you say here definitely but do see a couple things not quite right. Just
only wasting time if a soil grower is growing in super soil, no till, or using knf techniques. Otherwise yes even in soil PHing is important especially with bottled nutes.
Okay this is so far from the truth, yes with roots organics but fox farms is garbage. They truly produce poor soil and often times now a days have fungus gnats. My local hydro shop got rid of them recently because of how bad every batch has been coming out recently.
Maybe your local store wasnt' storing it right or had issues,some of the best shit I've ever grown was in fox farm dirt.a bad batch can come from any company but as a whole there is nothing wrong with it.I agree with most of what you say here definitely but do see a couple things not quite right. Just
only wasting time if a soil grower is growing in super soil, no till, or using knf techniques. Otherwise yes even in soil PHing is important especially with bottled nutes.
Okay this is so far from the truth, yes with roots organics but fox farms is garbage. They truly produce poor soil and often times now a days have fungus gnats. My local hydro shop got rid of them recently because of how bad every batch has been coming out recently.
I got one cfl on each side of the flowering plant for that reason, hanging vertically. My seedling only has one cfl above it but I'll put cfls on the sides once its tall enough. In about a week I'll put the seedling in the big pot as well.The one thing I'll add about growing with CFL is that most of the light comes out of the sides of the bulb. You want those suckers facing the canopy horizontally for the best usage of the bulb output. A reflector above it greatly increases the efficiency as well.
A lot of the ones I've seen just use direct bulb to plug in fixture plugged into a power strip and mounted in a frame or on a board so they are horizontal. Then they use some particular kind of sheet metal to fashion their own reflector. Really cheap way of doing things. We're talking 10-20 bucks cheap minus the bulbs.
Thanks for the tip, I'm very careful with the feeding and I'm feeding it water as well 2x per feeding, but I haven't really flushed, I'll do that next time and maybe hold off on another watering because of the dense soil.. It doesn't dry out easily.Sounds good, be careful with the feeding. The recommendations of nutrients are based on optimum conditions.
That is...With more powerful lighting. With your cfl's keep it minimal, take note of how she looks after feeding.
I always do a mini "flush" with just water every now and then...get a good run off, don't let pot soak run off back up. hopefully you have good drainage.
IMO the flushes are a preventive measure, so no salt build up.
If your going the cfl route...the more the better.
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