Budrottenjonny
- 11
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You have to get that rh down. Temp is good. You want your rh at 50 or less.
Thank you - the tricky thing is, the only way to get the RH down is taking it outside, and temp is up around 30 C / 86 F.
Is that going to offset any of the benefits of reducing RH?
Even if I run the dehumidifier full on then RH inside doesn't drop below 60...
Unfortunately you have a problem that will not go away without further equipment or changes. The simple answer is you have to keep the RH below 50 percent period. In your case I would suggest 45 percent. Why, well you already have the spores in the grow area. So either you take the plant outside and risk the high temperatures and possible PM or you have to get a better dehumidifier.Thank you - the tricky thing is, the only way to get the RH down is taking it outside, and temp is up around 30 C / 86 F.
Is that going to offset any of the benefits of reducing RH?
Even if I run the dehumidifier full on then RH inside doesn't drop below 60...
Unfortunately you have a problem that will not go away without further equipment or changes. The simple answer is you have to keep the RH below 50 percent period. In your case I would suggest 45 percent. Why, well you already have the spores in the grow area. So either you take the plant outside and risk the high temperatures and possible PM or you have to get a better dehumidifier.
Powder MeldewReally helpful - got it - thank you.
I've got it permanently out the original grow area where it 'contracted' the bud rot (the greenhouse) but there's a chance it could have brought it inside.
This is one plant and given the spend so far, I can't justify a new dehumidifier.
I think all I can do is take it outside during the day where I'll get the RH right down and take it in at night before RH goes right up again, hoping that it doesn't spread and I can ID/remove any infected areas at harvest.
From what I understand, nothing's going to kill it and bringing RH down is just going to manage the problem, right?
The other option is to harvest early but AFAIK she's a good 3-4 weeks off and hasn't fully gone into bloom. I wonder if she will once she's suffered the trauma of the rot and snippage to remove it...
Also - sorry if it's newbie question (I am a newbie) but what's PM please?
Hey all,
I'm just removed a bunch of growth that I discovered had early stage bud rot. Noticed a few, very yellow leaves and sure enough as I pulled them back I found mushiness setting in on two of the buds.
This is an auto Hindu Kush from Sensi Seeds - the third this year that's succumbed to Botyritis. She's been in a greenhouse in the day, brought inside at night but I live in a very 'moist' area and we've had some extra misty, rainy weather lately.
I've shifted her inside full time, under LEDs and with an oscillating fan on 18/6, to try and control the environment but whatever I do temps hover around 21-24 C / 69-75 F and between 65-75% RH.
I know these aren't ideal for managing bud rot. Outside in the day, the temp is waaaay high at the moment but RH is super low.
So in my dogged attempt not to let this one die, I'm wondering, is it better I keep her indoors where temp is down but RH higher - or outside where temp is up but RH down.
Anyone got an opinion or had success getting a chopped, infected plant over the line?
Thanks in advance.
I agree with @BigCube about the airflow. Personally I think airflow is the most important factor in preventing bud rot, even high humidity can be manageable if the airflow is sufficient. If you can, add a few more fans and and place them at different heights, you definitely need more than one.Low RH and good airflow are what you want. If your airflow sucks, the tent/room could be 45% but you could have pockets of 70% or more in the dense foliage and touching buds.
Adding fans is also going to do a great job of moving the botrytis spores. The key is to keep the spores from becoming by lower the RH below 50. 50 is the beginning of the benchmark were the spores will not become active. Right now they are floating in your grow and they will attack your largest cola's first. Air movement is great and can be used to assist but you have to get the RH down to keep the spores from becoming active. Just moving the air will not stop the spores from becoming active.I agree with @BigCube about the airflow. Personally I think airflow is the most important factor in preventing bud rot, even high humidity can be manageable if the airflow is sufficient. If you can, add a few more fans and and place them at different heights, you definitely need more than one.
50 is the beginning of the benchmark were the spores will not become active.
Last time I checked we do not grow cannabis in the refrigerator. 50 percent was based on the temperature range the OP provided.That's not accurate. If neo pot growers are going to obsess over numbers, and throw around guidelines based on numbers, they should actually mean something.
There's more moisture in the air at 50rh 80 degrees than there is at 50rh 60 degrees. It's called relative humidity because it's relative.. And it's a useless metric for growing plants. I've been waiting for this community to pick up on this for a while but I think I'll just start being ranting about it:
CANNABIS GROWERS, STOP MAKING POT LOOK STUPID. Plants are not sweaty humans, they don't care about RH at all. You need RH, barometric pressure and temperature to calculate absolute humidity, an ALMOST useful number. Now you have to reference that number with the Brix ° of the plant to find out how much moisture is in the powdery mildew food source (and you also have to know how much moisture the powdery mildew prefers).
Half assed science is worse than no science. Stop it. Go do some kindergarten level science and put a hygrometer in a sealed jar. Put it in the sun. Then put it in the fridge. The number on the magic science thingy changes, does that mean the moisture in the jar is changing?
No wonder fungicides are so common these days! The modern pot grower refuses to use his brain! 50%rh is two different moisture levels at two different temperatures!
I agree you want to keep spores to a minimum and proper rh and temp is important, but with enough airflow you can even stop active spores from colonizing on your plants. My point is that airflow is not the only important element to control but it may be the only one with the power to stop bud rot on its own.Adding fans is also going to do a great job of moving the botrytis spores. The key is to keep the spores from becoming by lower the RH below 50. 50 is the beginning of the benchmark were the spores will not become active. Right now they are floating in your grow and they will attack your largest cola's first. Air movement is great and can be used to assist but you have to get the RH down to keep the spores from becoming active. Just moving the air will not stop the spores from becoming active.
Active Air Flow alone will not stop the spread once it has already take hold.I agree you want to keep spores to a minimum and proper rh and temp is important, but with enough airflow you can even stop active spores from colonizing on your plants. My point is that airflow is not the only important element to control but it may be the only one with the power to stop bud rot on its own.
Agreed 100%.Active Air Flow alone will not stop the spread once it has already take hold.
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