bho, winterizing ... still no shatter :(

TNTnall · Jan 3, 2014

connoisseurde420 said:
what kind of starting material

I use only sugar trim with small bottom nugs. The pictures are all Super Lemon Haze. The trichomes fight for real-estate, lol. I have a 40 gram glass extractor that I packed pretty tightly. Then I run 600ml of butane through. This last run I was getting as high as 16.5 gram return on a 40 gram tube. Altogether I got the 72 grams shown from 200 grams of quality trim. That came out to almost a 35% return (unheard of!). You should have seen me freaking out in front of my wife. I looked like a kid in a candy store, lol. First run I got 12.5 grams. The second I got 14 grams. Then two 16.5 gram pulls, finishing with a 15.3 gram pull to finish it all off.

connoisseurde420 · Jan 4, 2014

I use the same starting material sometimes its wax occasionlly its shatter. but I think its more about quality of material and how it is treated after harvest. I've been running mine after about 7-10 days drying. @tntnail how is your material treated post harvest?

TNTnall · Jan 5, 2014

I dry the trim and small nugs very quickly. 85 degrees for 3 days bones it completely. I then put the material in the freezer for at least 24 hours. I try to keep the material as cold as possible. As well my butane is stored below freezing. This time of the year is best for me. It is 20 degrees outside, so the butane is not gassing off as much, until I put it in a water bath. As well I store my tubes in the freezer. I try and keep the whole process as cold as possible. I think I get a more complete soaking of the material when it's not trying to gas off in the tube. And there is less chance of pulling any chlorophyll.

NickHomebrew · Nov 27, 2015

TNTnall said:
I use only sugar trim with small bottom nugs. The pictures are all Super Lemon Haze. The trichomes fight for real-estate, lol. I have a 40 gram glass extractor that I packed pretty tightly. Then I run 600ml of butane through. This last run I was getting as high as 16.5 gram return on a 40 gram tube. Altogether I got the 72 grams shown from 200 grams of quality trim. That came out to almost a 35% return (unheard of!). You should have seen me freaking out in front of my wife. I looked like a kid in a candy store, lol. First run I got 12.5 grams. The second I got 14 grams. Then two 16.5 gram pulls, finishing with a 15.3 gram pull to finish it all off.

Thank you for the excellent information! After blasting do you add ever clear anand then pour that into a frozen jar?

WPCollective · Nov 27, 2015

There's two different ways I've made shatter. That was before I got a vacuum chamber setup and after. Before I got one, I always blasted trim with the small popcorn buds. I blast it into a 2qt glass pyrex cup. Then I put it in water that's 120 degrees. Keep in mind it'll cool through the glass before it touches the oil. After it is just a fairly thick oil, I pour in a 5th of 190 proof ever clear. It works with ever clear or 99% iso. I stir it and let it sit for 30 min. Then I pour it into mason jars through 2 unbleached coffee filters. Then I put it in the freezer. I have the square silicone pads and a digital heat pad. I set the heat pad up then set it to 110. I put the silicone pad on there then dump in the alcohol. I have a mesh screen that I put over top (typical kitchen one used to block sauce splatter). That's to keep gnats or anything from landing down in it. Then walk away. If you have a small fan you can put on low to blow over it, it'll speed things along. After the alcohol is gone, you're left with shatter.

After I got my vacuum setup, I do the same thing except I vacuum it. You can use the teflon Slick sheet and form it to a 9" round stainless pan - which fits perfectly into my vacuum chamber. Once I blast onto the slick sheet, I let it evaporate naturally on the heat pad then put it in the vacuum once almost all the Butane is evaporated.

When I put it in the vacuum chamber, I leave the heat on 110 the whole time. I use the slick sheet so it makes flipping it easy. The only time I've had trouble is when it's a small yield so it's too thin to come up in a patty. Always wear gloves, never touch it with your bare hands. The oil from your hands will get in the hash oil and make it dark and leave impurities.

I pull 10hg for 10 minutes, then 20hg for 30 minutes, then 29hg for 12 hours. Then I flip the oil. Vacuum at 29hg for 12 hours, flip, 12 hours, flip 12 hours. You want 48 total hours in the vacuum.

The butane I use is the power 5x - the blue can. You can get cases of 12 for $30 online.

If I have the wax/honeycomb like you've been getting or post winterizing. I just put it in the pyrex measuring cup. Add alcohol and use a stainless tool to break it up and stir it until it all dissolves. Then I filter it and would process it how I described above depending on if I had access to the vacuum chamber or not. I make shatter every time. I get better yields and better tasting oil with better trim or straight nug runs.

Here's my equipment:

I'd like to mention that I only use the silicone when I've used alcohol to break down the oil and I'm evaporating the alcohol. Blasting into silicone or having butane in the silicone dish will cause the silicone to break down and get into the oil. I switched to a round stainless pan and the teflon slick sheet, since you can blast onto the teflon coated sheet.

Vacuum Chamber
Vacuum
Silicone pan (9" round fits perfectly into vacuum)
Slick sheet
Steel Pan
Butane

Since making hash oil this way is now illegal in WA state without the proper permits, I am now putting all of my energy in perfecting solventless concentrates.

NickHomebrew · Nov 27, 2015

WPCollective said:
There's two didude duck yeah thanks I'm going to try thisfferent ways I've made shatter. That was before I got a vacuum chamber setup and after. Before I got one, I always blasted trim with the small popcorn buds. I blast it into a 2qt glass pyrex cup. Then I put it in water that's 120 degrees. Keep in mind it'll cool through the glass before it touches the oil. After it is just a fairly thick oil, I pour in a 5th of 190 proof ever clear. It works with ever clear or 99% iso. I stir it and let it sit for 30 min. Then I pour it into mason jars through 2 unbleached coffee filters. Then I put it in the freezer. I have the square silicone pads and a digital heat pad. I set the heat pad up then set it to 110. I put the silicone pad on there then dump in the alcohol. I have a mesh screen that I put over top (typical kitchen one used to block sauce splatter). That's to keep gnats or anything from landing down in it. Then walk away. If you have a small fan you can put on low to blow over it, it'll speed things along. After the alcohol is gone, you're left with shatter.

After I got my vacuum setup, I do the same thing except I vacuum it. You can use the teflon Slick sheet and form it to a 9" round stainless pan - which fits perfectly into my vacuum chamber. Once I blast onto the slick sheet, I let it evaporate naturally on the heat pad then put it in the vacuum once almost all the Butane is evaporated.

When I put it in the vacuum chamber, I leave the heat on 110 the whole time. I use the slick sheet so it makes flipping it easy. The only time I've had trouble is when it's a small yield so it's too thin to come up in a patty. Always wear gloves, never touch it with your bare hands. The oil from your hands will get in the hash oil and make it dark and leave impurities.

I pull 10hg for 10 minutes, then 20hg for 30 minutes, then 29hg for 12 hours. Then I flip the oil. Vacuum at 29hg for 12 hours, flip, 12 hours, flip 12 hours. You want 48 total hours in the vacuum.

The butane I use is the power 5x - the blue can. You can get cases of 12 for $30 online.

If I have the wax/honeycomb like you've been getting or post winterizing. I just put it in the pyrex measuring cup. Add alcohol and use a stainless tool to break it up and stir it until it all dissolves. Then I filter it and would process it how I described above depending on if I had access to the vacuum chamber or not. I make shatter every time. I get better yields and better tasting oil with better trim or straight nug runs.

Here's my equipment:

I'd like to mention that I only use the silicone when I've used alcohol to break down the oil and I'm evaporating the alcohol. Blasting into silicone or having butane in the silicone dish will cause the silicone to break down and get into the oil. I switched to a round stainless pan and the teflon slick sheet, since you can blast onto the teflon coated sheet.

Vacuum Chamber
Vacuum
Silicone pan (9" round fits perfectly into vacuum)
Slick sheet
Steel Pan
Butane

Since making hash oil this way is now illegal in WA state without the proper permits, I am now putting all of my energy in perfecting solventless concentrates.

3N1GM4 · Nov 28, 2015

there is a box with your name and address on it in one pic.

WPCollective · Nov 28, 2015

3N1GM4 said:
there is a box with your name and address on it in one pic.

That the address to an iphone parts store where I bought my new LCD screen lol I noticed that afterwards and double checked.

NickHomebrew · Nov 28, 2015

WPCollective said:
That the address to an iphone parts store where I bought my new LCD screen lol I noticed that afterwards and doubl
Lol you so crazy

connoisseurde420 · Nov 28, 2015

Needed a vac oven. Now i get amber shatter everytime.

WPCollective · Nov 28, 2015

connoisseurde420 said:
Needed a vac oven. Now i get amber shatter everytime.

Yep, I added the heat pad to the bottom of my vacuum chamber and it worked perfectly. Heated vacuum chamber definitely makes a night and day difference. I think my next investment will be a rotovap since I'm going after solventless now.

3N1GM4 · Nov 28, 2015

These go from 100°F to 500°F in 5° incriments. Shattervacs are made from pressure cooker bottoms, you could place a shattervac in an induction ready skillet with water in it and then your whole vac bottom would be the perfect 115°F
http://www.nuwavecooktop.com/?ref_version=Google-Ads-Primary&gclid=CK6z0-GttMkCFRApaQodUNwENA

3N1GM4 · Nov 28, 2015

Or you could just turn an induction ready pot into the bottom of your vac.

connoisseurde420 · Nov 28, 2015

#ornah everything I ever rigged up was not consistent in results. For me personally, it was easier to buy a vac.

WPCollective · Nov 28, 2015

Heat Pad

I just bought this heat pad and stuck it to the bottom of my glass vac chamber. It works flawlessly. I set it to 110 and let the chamber do the rest. A real vacuum oven would be tits but it's an investment I never got around to making before I stopped blowing oil. Now it'd be a waste because I don't blow oil anymore.

connoisseurde420 · Nov 28, 2015

yeah i use a cls, no more open blasting. love those 5# units

NickHomebrew · Nov 29, 2015

Nice how did you start transitioning to such a complicated system?

3N1GM4 · Nov 29, 2015

First step is get ritch, second step is purchase closed loop system...

connoisseurde420 · Nov 30, 2015

@NickHomebrew

Its really not that complicated. Couple hours watching you tube and half a day messing with it and we made a few hundred graams of shatter for the oven. I have machine shop experience, and pretty hand with what ever i put in my hands so it wasnt bad. I have also worked in a clean room for a bit. Sure that expereince helps. Dont take it lightly, but if you can grow, or blast open tubes, then i feel running the cls is a cake walk.

@3N1GM4
They are not that much, if you are running more than say 6 lights, the cost is negligible i feel. If you have a greenhouse, its pretty easy to justify also. Units can be had for 5-10k that will still run multiple lb and be safe.

WPCollective · Nov 30, 2015

I agree, closed loop blasting is the way to go. I'm kind of glad they made open blasting illegal here in WA because a bunch of people were doing it improperly and there was a lot of garbage out there. There still is but not as much or at least I don't see as much traffic from it.

If you have the goods and the cash flow, it's worth it to pick up a CLS. They are easy to get in the PNW. I have a buddy down in OR that builds them. You get the best product when you go from CL extraction to the vacuum oven. I've had the pleasure of helping buddies process oil this way and the results are fantastic.

bho, winterizing ... still no shatter :(

bho, winterizing ... still no shatter :(

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