How far away is your light? They look like they’re stretching upwards. This usually happens when your light is too far away or not strong enough.

You can correct the elongated stem below the cotyledons when you transplant. Fill the soil up in the pot until the level is about an inch or so below the cotyledons. The buried portion will root. I’d get them transplanted and you’ll be fine.

TheGoldenRoad said:

How far away is your light? They look like they’re stretching upwards. This usually happens when your light is too far away or not strong enough.

You can correct the elongated stem below the cotyledons when you transplant. Fill the soil up in the pot until the level is about an inch or so below the cotyledons. The buried portion will root. I’d get them transplanted and you’ll be fine.

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Thank you. I was looking around and saw a similar problem and that was their answer as well. I moved my light closer but did not turn up its intensity. Any input on the brown spotting. Im curious if i should be more concerned

AMurKyX said:

Thank you. I was looking around and saw a similar problem and that was their answer as well. I moved my light closer but did not turn up its intensity. Any input on the brown spotting. Im curious if i should be more concerned

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Nothing that looks alarming to me. Did you get any liquids on the leaves like root starter? That can cause spots.

TheGoldenRoad said:

Nothing that looks alarming to me. Did you get any liquids on the leaves like root starter? That can cause spots.

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No. I started these seeds in general soil, with a humidity dome over the top. Today the falling one was touching the top so i took the domes off then later on in the day it the other fell over. Only thing to have touched the leaves thus far was just built up humidity droplets

AMurKyX said:

No. I started these seeds in general soil, with a humidity dome over the top. Today the falling one was touching the top so i took the domes off then later on in the day it the other fell over. Only thing to have touched the leaves thus far was just built up humidity droplets

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I’d transplant them and take it from there.

TheGoldenRoad said:

I’d transplant them and take it from there.

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Transplant now? I felt as i should wait for the roots to grow a little but more so that the plant has a better chance of surving during the ordeal. I do have more seeds and so far all four (one of each strain) popped good.

Almost assuredly when you have green moss on your dirt it’s an over watering/drainage problem. (Looks like there’s green water in the bottom of some of the containers (?)

And you don’t need a seed mat at this point, since it’ll cook the rots.

mancorn said:

Almost assuredly when you have green moss on your dirt it’s an over watering/drainage problem. (Looks like there’s green water in the bottom of some of the containers (?)

And you don’t need a seed mat at this point, since it’ll cook the rots.

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Thank you. The pots have a green rubber bottom with holes to make popping them out a little easier, really theres only a bit of the algae on the top most layers. Also the heat mat is set to 68 and doesnt really kick on since the tent itself is set to 70. I had a humidifier as well but my moisture content has been the main issue for a few days. I havent watered them once since i put the seeds in soil. Just a product of the dome lifs and humidifier for other plants that are going to be relocated when winter is no longer a huge pain in my rear. Should i transplant bow or will i be ok for a little linger. If so how much longer?

The main reason you don’t just start in a big pot is that it’s difficult to control the soil moisture when you have a little plant. So you might make things worse if you don’t have a good root system and move into a larger pot. That said, you shouldn’t use clear containers as you don’t want your roots exposed to light. My guess is that your containers don’t have enough drainage (and why they’re staying wet). So you might just want to go ahead and up pot into opaque pots. If you’re going into the final pot size maybe look into using fabric as they dry out much quicker than plastic.

Unless your tent (or room) has low humidity, using a dome for sprouts isn’t necessary.

Hey,
I need some advice. I have little seedlings at the beginning of the second week. Today two of them have these rust spots on them, see photo. So far there are only about two on each. Do you know what could be causing this? I have searched the internet and read that rust spots appear in seedlings when they are under light stress. So I put the light higher to get an umol value of about 350. Before it was about 400, but it's measured by the app on my phone. I was still thinking that the temperature might be higher than the 2-4C indicated, that the leaf temperature is lower than the air temperature. I'm calculating this with the temperature in the box, which is why I have 27.5C in there. When I pour water into the pot at 21.5C, water at 23.5C comes out. Here are the other readings:

Air temperature: 27,5C (I assume that the temperature on the surface of the leaves is about 2-4C lower), the seedlings are gently blown with a fan

Humidity: 70-75%

Light: 100W, umol value approx. 400 - measured by mobile app, distance from top 40cm (I have now adjusted to 350umol)

Daily cycle: 18h day, 6h night

Substrate: 50%Coconut
50% perlite

Flower pots: Air pot

Water: reverse osmosis, Ph 5,7-5,8
Fertilizer: Shogun roots and Shogun start
Fertilized according to the Shogun calculator to a standard fertilization at each watering to an EC value of 1.1

Watering: once every 2 days (But it seems like too much, so from now on I'll water every three days.)

I forgot to add that I have Orange and Jack plants. The spots are on the orange, the jack doesn't have them. That's why I thought it might be the light, because Orange is a little taller.