Monster762
- 3,270
- 263
Yeah ph goes up as it sits usually. 7.5 too high still. There are other things than ph up n down to adjust ph.Everything I've read says that ph above 7 or below 6 will interfere with nutrient availability and cause deficiencies. I've seen charts all over the place that show the availability of nutrients at different ph levels and while they vary a little, they all seem to agree that it should be somewhere in the range of 6 to 7.
When I add my nutes, they do lower the ph a little, but depending on how long I've left the water out, it can be as high as 8 and after adding nutes, it's still around 7.5.
Most of my base info comes from right here. But after I read here I google everything. I cross research everything from just about every source that comes up on google when I type it in. I'm pretty new to this so I figure best way not to mess up is to read a lot. And a lot of different views on same topics. So far it's worked pretty good. But by no means do I know all the answers. I'm just steady trying to absorb.where u getting this info
I watered this morning with 1/2 tsp of Jack's per 4 gallons. Double what I had been using, but still only half of what the instructions say. I also added 2 tsp of Cal-Mag Plus to my 4 gallons of water, which is 1/2 of what Botanicare suggests for soil. The CalMag seems to have lowered ph a little. Instead of the normal 7.5 after nutes, it was 7.2imo u need to test run off of each plant that is having problems
nice to meet youLooks like calcium def. Adjusting your ph before feeding is a must imo. Never once has adjusting ph caused problems for anyone I know.
You can see the problem starting on many other leafs.
The story I like to believe, from what I have read here, is that Ca is not very mobile, and is thus at times in short supply up at the growing ends. This starts a cascade resulting in early death of the tissue.
The problem can be arrested by spraying with a calcium salt. I use calcium sulfate at 1 tablespoon per gallon.
I was using this same spray for end rot protection in my tomatoes this summer and noticed yellowing on some auto flowers, which stopped progression after spraying.
It's a cheep and safe thing to try.
They even sell ready made sprays for tomatoes.
Good luck fixing this.
I've been adding it every time I water (about every other day) at 1 tsp for 4 gallons. I did the foliar spray a couple times using that same ratio.how did u go about the calmag spray I been thinking about trying it my self
Not sure but I’ll be looking into that cause I had spotting. I think this run I’m running low low numbers. Gonna see what letting the plant grow on its own does. Just light nutes.So I'm a little over 2 weeks into flower. About a week ago, I started transitioning from the Jack's all purpose (20-20-20) to the bloom booster (10-30-20). A few days ago, I started seeing the brown spots, brown tips, and yellowing between the veins again on my Pineapple Haze. Looks almost the same as it did when it first started happening. For awhile after I first started this thread, there were no more signs of the issue getting worse.
I was doing more reading and found some info about high P locking out Zinc, along with calcium, copper, iron, and magnesium. I found some pics of Zinc deficiency and they also look a lot like the symptoms I've had.
So now I'm suspecting excess P is causing lockout of Zinc or something else.
What do you guys think?
Yeah they say some strains like different things. On the dyna grow foliage pro. I’ve read a lot on that too. It is mainly a veg nute. I can’t remember the bud nute name that runs with it. I read so much stuff half of it gets mixed up.My plants should be due for a watering tomorrow, so I think I'm going to flush, then do a very light feeding with just the 20-20-20 and CalMag and see what happens. I've been reading a lot of info saying that the high P bloom/flower nutes really aren't good. Quite a few people swear by Dyna Gro Foliage pro from start to finish, and that's a 9-3-6.
Though it definitely seems to be strain dependent because my Strawberry Kush and Blueberry plants are looking great with no signs of any deficiency or toxicity. Maybe my Pineapple Haze are just very sensitive to too much P.
Dyna Grow Bloom is the one marketed for flowering. It's a 3-12-6.Yeah they say some strains like different things. On the dyna grow foliage pro. I’ve read a lot on that too. It is mainly a veg nute. I can’t remember the bud nute name that runs with it. I read so much stuff half of it gets mixed up.
Yeah might be. That’s one thing about the nutes I picked for my last run is just mix n the ph was 6.2 every time. But I didn’t like the lack of k in flower. So I need to figure a different approach. I really think I’m going to try an almost no nutes grow. On my few seeds I have left. If it looks to go south I have nutes to give it but I’m going to make the plants ask for them instead of just feeding regularly. I was feeding every water or every other water. Then towards mid flower I got spots and then hit with k to try n balance thinking it was a k deficiency and started getting nute burns.Dyna Grow Bloom is the one marketed for flowering. It's a 3-12-6.
But I've read stuff from several growers who disagree with the common advice about going with lower N and higher P during flowering, at least when growing in soil. Some of them use the foliage pro all the way until harvest and seem to have great results. Like everything else, there are as many differing opinions as there are people posting them. :)
I'm also thinking that since I have to use ph down (phosporic acid) on every watering to get my ph down to 6.5, that may be contributing to excess P.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?