Trash_2002
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i would stop calmag since they are approaching harvest time in maybe 3weeks, and change ph to 6.0.
i would stop calmag since they are approaching harvest time in maybe 3weeks, and change ph to 6.0.I’m wondering if I should stop the calmag in general from here on out? I’ve heard that I should have stopped the cal mag a while back because my base nutrients do have it.. right now my temps are 77 during lights on and 45% humidity. Right around 70 and 48% with lights out. Prior to this week it was very hard to get my humidity down that much it was consistently in the range of 55-65%. Or do I just keep things exactly as I’ve been doing? I’m a little ocd so it will be hard for me to ignore the issues and I don’t want to ruin them by continuing this issue in the last few weeks..
Thanks again for the advice!i would stop calmag since they are approaching harvest time in maybe 3weeks, and change ph to 6.0.
Not very close atleast 18 in away the big one that’s closest to the light had no heat stress just a slight bleachingHey, Man Brown tips can sometimes be caused by too much light or heat. How close is your light to the canopy?
Took the words outa my mouthi would stop calmag since they are approaching harvest time in maybe 3weeks, and change ph to 6.0.
In veg it should be lower in flower coir ph can he raisedwell i do not grow in coco i just remember what i seen guys here say but they all talk about ph should be lower , you might could try to flush with plain p'h water
So I PHed water to 6.0 for feeding a today after nutrients were added and watered everything as usual.. my run off is anywhere from 4.9-5.1 so not sure if that tells you anything but let me know what you think also post a updated photo of the progression of the leavesi would stop calmag since they are approaching harvest time in maybe 3weeks, and change ph to 6.0.
runoff imho is useless info, for it to have any meaning it has to be collected without cross contamination from trays, and even than we just have to accept a higher EC in the media than what goes in chemical form, and normally also a lower PH than what goes in, chemical ferts are mainly acidic, so over time it will acidify the media to some extent, if you have a runoff of 20-30% (drain to waste!!!), very rarely you will see toxic salt buildup, given the plants are healthy and "eating" tho.So I PHed water to 6.0 for feeding a today after nutrients were added and watered everything as usual.. my run off is anywhere from 4.9-5.1 so not sure if that tells you anything but let me know what you think also post a updated photo of the progression of the leaves
Thanks again for the input!runoff imho is useless info, for it to have any meaning it has to be collected without cross contamination from trays, and even than we just have to accept a higher EC in the media than what goes in chemical form, and normally also a lower PH than what goes in, chemical ferts are mainly acidic, so over time it will acidify the media to some extent, if you have a runoff of 20-30% (drain to waste!!!), very rarely you will see toxic salt buildup, given the plants are healthy and "eating" tho.
just see if the problem with that phenotype stop or not.. nothing much you can do at this time, the problem is already there and the "damage" already done, you will have to find why it happened if you choose to keep that pheno. Too much K ?Too Much mg? PH range of the media & feeds ? etc etc etc
This is dialing in phenotype growing, some are finick some not. like @HerbalEdu said.
No problem, btw how much EC are you giving them in general? How much base fertilizer EC and how much flower booster EC on top of that? Do you have a calibrated EC meter?Thanks again for the input!
I don’t I just follow the recommended doses on the chart for general hydro products specifically for coco.. I can give you the exact measurements tomorrow in terms of nitrogen’s, mag, cal, pk, etc. I usually do 5 gallon rounds and did a top dress today to see if that would possibly help. Next round I’ll be using a EC meter. What do you think of the combos that have PH and all 3 in one?No problem, btw how much EC are you giving them in general? How much base fertilizer EC and how much flower booster EC on top of that? Do you have a calibrated EC meter?
Cheers
It still gets nitrogen in the base material it’s a 3 parts system and the first 2 have nitrogen but the 1st has the mostIf you look at the super bloom. I has No Nitrogen listed on it's label.
She will still need a little nitrogen maybe 125ppm at this stage.
Look at your Veg fertilizer. It should have numbers on it .
2- 45 - 28.
You need to calculate how much 2 to give your plant 150ppm Nitrogen. And top dress the plant that much.
I use a hanna combo PH/EC/Temp, i use the low range EC that reads in uS, but the high EC one that reads in mS will work just as good. 1000uS=1.0mSI don’t I just follow the recommended doses on the chart for general hydro products specifically for coco.. I can give you the exact measurements tomorrow in terms of nitrogen’s, mag, cal, pk, etc. I usually do 5 gallon rounds and did a top dress today to see if that would possibly help. Next round I’ll be using a EC meter. What do you think of the combos that have PH and all 3 in one?
yep if its happening only on that plant that's very close to the lights it can surely be it :-)geezus raise your damn light!,..
hey brother, i’m not saying it’s the only issue,yep if its happening only on that plant that's very close to the lights it can surely be it :-)
but it's not yellowing interveins or whole leaves/browning margins, it's spotted brown marks, witch make me think the plant showing the problem isnt because of too much light intensity/heat.
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