Galgrows said:

Bummer about so many getting bud rot i don't know which is worse that rot or bud worms from the moths or thrips. It's just hard at times to keep them going healthy. Don't you just hate learning lessons LOL dang weed farmers you can't beat Mother Nature she kicks ass every summer.

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

this is actually predominantly a genetics thing imho. The vast majority of outdoor growers these days are growing lineages that dont really have any business outside a tent lol. hems just the facts.

I have plants out there i have to baby constantly. And ill prob still lose a bit of.

But i also have plants i havent sprayed for bugs or fungi either one with anything since June and will continue to not bother with all that, even through the tropical storm system coming next week. Im not really expecting to loose much if anything from the columbian hybrids.

All my more indoor friendly plants, my heavily inbred plants, and my indicas, ill be fighting a loosing war next week for sure. Theres no way i wont be. My big Columbian hybrids only ever seem like they love the rain though. Ive even stopped worrying about all the dew and last two rains i never even bothered shaking those ones out at all. Their leaves dont even droop after a heavy rainstorm. They be gravy.






Preemptively going into the flower season using citric acid solutions is the only thing ivbe personally ever done to stave off the majority of rot and botrytis on indicas and sensitive plants. But even then, genetics have a much bigger impact then any in-flower treatments do on fungi, and always will, and there's no real way around that either.

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RootFarmer said:

Could be bud end rot from a calcium deficiency if you arent seeing any mold on the affected buds? Another possibility is worms/caterpillars. We have a lot of cabbage moths here and they like to lay eggs in buds. The eggs become caterpillars and feed on the plant. Pop the end off one of the buds. If you see black stuff that's poop. Very small worms can take up residence in buds or even in stems/branches. Back in the late 80s/early 90s IIRC there was this killer bud going around. My buddies and I discovered that there were these tiny dead worms in the stems. The flower was untouched. Dealers thought we were nuts going around asking for the weed with the worms.

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Jimmie said:

Just gotta keep after it. Stuff happens outside, go with the flow!

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Cape1 said:

I was spraying with Dr. Zymes religiously (citric based). I switched to Canncontrol for a few weeks and that is when shit started going down hill. Although, I want to be clear that this is not an indictment of Canncontrol in any way. I think what I'm noticing is that bud rot seems to kick into high gear as the buds start to really get big. I'm going to hit them again mid week with Dr. Zymes. Might hit them every other night for a week. I'm in week 8. I think two of the 6 MW plants are about ready. I'm going to stop the heavy nuts after this week, give them a flush and chop at week 10. My next challenge is cleaning up my basement a bit. I did invest in a dehumidifier and an oscillating fan.

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

ive never used dr zymes wasnt sure.


citric will prevent, it will not kill whats already there though. will stall it a bit though. It can kill and remove PM very well though.


Once you start a citric based regiment you need to finish the season with it imho. If you stop during flower youll usually have more issues then if you never did it to begin with because citric will oxidize and break down in time into elements fungi can actually feed off. Its not the chemical itself doing the work, its the surface PH change it causes. IIRC plants will even slowly absorb it. even in the root systems.


New sprayings will prevent it from spreading as quick but its probably not going to totally disappear. It will slow it down though. Citric acid is the only thing i know of that can stop bud rot from happening all together. But it doesnt always totally work, and if you drop the regiment for a bit youve def made a mistake to learn from lol. It has to be preemptive and kept up with after every time its washed from the plant or enough time and morning dewings have gone by.

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Cape1 said:

Didn't realize that making the switch might be problematic. That is good to know for next time. For now, yeah, I figure it I can at least slow it down a bit and chop in two weeks, it will be a good compromise - e.g., a little more time to fully mature with mitigated (albeit not eliminated) risk of excessive rot.

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

yea its probably nothing much to do with the new product. Probably more to do with the citric acid left behind breaking down into a fungal food source without being replaced.


Most negative growing experiences are lessons learned for the future for sure. Guess how i learned that part about citric treatments?


Another thing to note, is th

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Cape1 said:

I've done everything possible to prevent Bud Rot outdoors. Sprayed either Dr. Zymes or Mammouth Cannncontrol every week, try to shake plants after a rain, pruned to make sure light and air penetrate. Still, at this point, I am not cutting off at least 1 Bud every day. I know that I'm not quite at the ideal place to chop these plants. The Trichomes are a bit cloudy, some red hairs, even a few amber Trichomes, but they are only at around week 7 or 8 on a strain that typically takes 9 to 11. I'm wondering if it makes sense to just chop them.

What do you guys think? Is it normal to be chopping of Bud Rot on a regular basis on an outdoor grow? Should I hang in there and try to squeeze a couple of more weeks or cut my losses and settle for something less than ideal?

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cannafarmer420 said:

Change your genetics up

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cannafarmer420 said:

Change your genetics up

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Captspaulding said:

Go to where the climate suits your clothes.

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