patiofarmer said:

And I will tell everyone I use auto text to save my poor thumbs so you will have to translate sometimes.

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All keyboards are possessed by the spell check demon that .ksdwhfli with us ;olshvo

ComfortablyNumb said:

How big is your shed? You may be able to drop it 20 degrees. What's around it?

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It's around 6' x 10'. 3x4 floor space I cleared for the tent. The rest is built in shelves. Uninsulated. For storage and garden stuff. It'd right by a fence. House is like 8 feet away. I've been lucky. Today it was 105 and tent reached 90.

Habosabin said:

It's around 6' x 10'. 3x4 floor space I cleared for the tent. The rest is built in shelves. Uninsulated. For storage and garden stuff. It'd right by a fence. House is like 8 feet away. I've been lucky. Today it was 105 and tent reached 90.

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I did this over our shed and the temp dropped 25 degrees.
I built a roof over it. Nothing fancy, just enough to keep the sun off and that was all it needed. No walls, just a roof.
If there is no airflow, the heat stays inside. With no walls, the air blows under and cools.

ComfortablyNumb said:

I did this over our shed and the temp dropped 25 degrees.
I built a roof over it. Nothing fancy, just enough to keep the sun off and that was all it needed. No walls, just a roof.
If there is no airflow, the heat stays inside. With no walls, the air blows under and cools.

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The current shed has a real shingle roof and pretty tall. I do have a shade screen up for a different purpose and it seems to at least reduce the afternoon sun on the sun facing side. Hopefully I can use an indoor room someday. For now this is still fun as heck but with just added uncontrollables.

Habosabin said:

The current shed has a real shingle roof and pretty tall. I do have a shade screen up for a different purpose and it seems to at least reduce the afternoon sun on the sun facing side. Hopefully I can use an indoor room someday. For now this is still fun as heck but with just added uncontrollables.

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No worries. we all need a relaxing hobby.

The tent for two days in a row stayed 90 and under when it was 105 outside. So 90 degrees although high I think is tolerable for a few days at a time. Just not so happy it's at the end of my flowering. My dark period is the hottest part of the day. I bought a real dehumidifier for this fall winter grow but will have to modify tent to accommodate it.

I read a USDA report that said enzyme action in plants was stalled by temps over 86 deg. Gotta bring the temps down.
That report was talking about fruits, apples, oranges, berries... But still...

90 is pushing it for sure I used to grow down in North Carolina and I would push 95 some days in the summer when it was a 110 outside even with central air running. I was lucky to have genetics that liked heat there are some that grow in areas of the world that are 95 right through their growing season or even higher. You might want to actually go the evaporative cooler route because it might drop it only 5ﾟ but it will increase the humidity which will help if you were in a room of 90ﾟ but raised your humidity to 75 and had CO 2 running you would be right in a sweet spot. Can't add CO 2 really cause you're outside and you will lose it but you can add humidity to help them tolerate the heat. It's just like all the give and takes, you would have to watch out a little bit more for powdery mold but as long as you kill the cooler at night when humidity usually goes up naturally and have good ventilation you will get a good harvest. If it were me I would shoot for 68 to 72% humidity during the day (if an evaporative cooler can even get u 3 or 4 degrees cooler ur fine ime) and then open the tent and change over all the air at dark and see what kind of humidity you run overnight compared to the temperature. Many times down south i had to sacrifice that night/day temp change because i couldnt cool it enough. If you don't already have one look up vapor pressure deficit chart. I don't use it religiously but it is helpful when you're dealing with extremes on either end to see how you can help the plant deal with it if there's one controllable you can't adjust. I saw a tower fan at home depot with an invaporative cooler Built-in for a 100 bucks and just the coolers on their own I have seen small versions for less than 200 that will be much more efficient than that hybrid probably.

Habosabin said:

Would dimming the light help?

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Yes it could help, or you could back it off a bit too..
Are you supplementing Nitrogen and Magnesium? because you must do it under bright LEDs...

BBoyzDetroit said:

For some reason when I switched to LED (growers choice 680 and 720) from 1000w hps I started noticing that my buds wont ripen. I normally run 9 weeks in flower. Typically in my HPS rooms around week 6-7 the white hair stop growing and the bud begins to fill in, by week 8 there is barely anymore white hairs and if there is 90% of them will turn amber/orange and the buds are heavy and full of clear/milky(50/50) trichomes. On a nug the size of a golf ball I can literally see 10-15 hairs sticking out which will easily come off after trimming.

With my LED rooms I can be end of week 9 ready to harvest after a 10 day flush same nutes same everything as I always done and the buds are literally full of white hairs as if the plant is in week 7.
Its been 2 consecutive runs likes this and my patients are getting upset. After drying those white hairs turn orange/brown but they fill in about 30% of the bud appearance. My smell isnt the same because I feel like the trichomes really come out heave in that final ripening phase. But I'm doing something wrong and I hope somebody can help me figure this out.

FYI this is my first post ever on here. I've always referred to these forums for many issues I've had the last 7 years and without me previously saying it because I never setup an account and now I finally did.. THANK YOU for all your help and time you all have put into these forums to help people like me. I just have had a very hard time trying to find info on why LED have this problem.

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I tried to find if you posted what strain you have that is NOT finishing and if it is the SAME strain you had been growing under the HPS or if you have a different strain now under the LED's...?? I can't find anywhere what strain you are growing. I think that would be vital information to know before anyone can give you any real advice. Are you growing the same strain over and over? What strain is it? What light/s are you using and how far above the canopy are they hung?

Ya. I was just thankful it wasnt 105.

Grapefruitroop said:

Yes it could help, or you could back it off a bit too..
Are you supplementing Nitrogen and Magnesium? because you must do it under bright LEDs...

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just in my Cal mag. I didn't up my N. Just using floranova.

ComfortablyNumb said:

No worries man. That is the only addition to my lights, is UVB. I have a lizard bulb I added and now I'm getting ripe like I should.
I'm not going to say that will fix your problem. There is also the addition of Far Red in the 730-760 nm range. This really helps buds ripen more quickly. I have not installed that yet. I'm in the process of rebuilding my light rack. I had one go out and I'm waiting for its replacement to arrive.

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What is a lizard bulb? Never heard that term....of course I live under a rock

sambapati said:

What is a lizard bulb? Never heard that term....of course I live under a rock

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A UV Heat bulb for pet Lizards.

ComfortablyNumb said:

A UV Heat bulb for pet Lizards.

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I need to study up on UV...good start for NY new knowledge required

sambapati said:

I need to study up on UV...good start for NY new knowledge required

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You want UV A & B for best results.
The UV stresses the plant in a manner that causes it to make more trichomes (where the THC is).