Bug problem?

gumby420 · Mar 17, 2014

Well im at a loss right now on my veg room, i have no idea what the issue is, i do have a small root aphid infestation but my yellow traps barely have anything on them, Caps teas have been helping with that a lot also. I saw a few spider mites and did a big spray with floramite and havent seen any since but it still looks like i have some symptoms. I recently transplanted into 20gal pots from one gal pots with FFOF, thinking it could be lockout or something since they were only in 1gal pots and were pretty big. also roots all looked healthy while transplanting. sorry for the rambling, but what does this look like? Thanks

OrganicGanja · Mar 17, 2014

I would say you nailed it right on the money with the mite problems, to me thats what seems to be your battle. I would go over every fan leaf top and bottom manually killing as many live mites and eggs as you can then hit them real good with neem oil products a few times. I use neem all through veg. They dont seem to be outta control still manageable if you get the little fuckers now. Happy Hunting get them lil bastards before they get your girls.

Seamaiden · Mar 17, 2014

I see what's going on in those mid-plant fan leaves, and it does not resemble any kind of deficiency I'm familiar with. I can't say that it's the mites alone, either. I'm wondering if a disease was vectored, since you have more than one pest problem at the same time, seems rather likely. What that disease is, I cannot say for sure, but that's what it's kind of looking like to me. I suggest adding a bit of aspirin to your regimen, one 325mg tablet per gallon, watered in. It is to help boost the plant's immune response.

gumby420 · Mar 17, 2014

OrganicGanja said:
I would say you nailed it right on the money with the mite problems, to me thats what seems to be your battle. I would go over every fan leaf top and bottom manually killing as many live mites and eggs as you can then hit them real good with neem oil products a few times. I use neem all through veg. They dont seem to be outta control still manageable if you get the little fuckers now. Happy Hunting get them lil bastards before they get your girls.

i thought neem based products werent very effective on mites? im a totally mislead on that?
thank you and seamaiden for you help

justanotherbozo · Mar 17, 2014

gumby420 said:
i thought neem based products werent very effective on mites? im a totally mislead on that?
thank you and seamaiden for you help

...be careful with neem, while it is organic it is also quite strong and so can be toxic to plants if it is applied in too strong a concentration.

...there are also much simpler treatments for common spidermites, ...for example, did you know that soap acts like acid to spidermite shells? ...so just a few drops of dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle of water can put a serious dent in mite populations, all by itself.

...HotShot NoPest Strips can also be used to good effect but only if they are used properly. ...the active ingredient is dichlorvos, which is toxic to humans btw, and inside the package is a plastic shell with a dichlorvos soaked pad that begins to exude dichlorvos gas as soon as you open the package, ...anyway, it functions by exuding that gas until it reach's levels that are lethal for mites so inside a cab or a tent with active exhaust they will be ineffective unless you shut your exhaust down, ...what i do with these when i use them is to put one in at light's out and i turn the fan off, then i turn the fan back on just before lights on and then i take the HotShot out and seal it in a ziplock bag until i need it again. (you need to do this every 3 days for about 2 weeks because the HotShot does nothing to eggs and the lifecycle of the mite is about 3 days from hatching to egglaying so 3 or 4 treatments every third day and your mites should be history)

...anyway, when you combine the two strategies, mites are nothing but a thing, and not that big a thing either unless you get really lazy and allow an ifestation to fully blossom before you notice and begin treatments.

peace, bozo

Seamaiden · Mar 18, 2014

A 1:1 mix of isopropyl applied every three days to saturation will kill off mites pretty well (don't let too much get into the soil, none of you can help it). Rosemary essential oil mixed at 2% (gotta be emulsified) will do it, applied the same way, but safer than the iso.

Azamax/Azatrol are two products that are derivatives of neem and mites do not become resistant to them, as they have the dichlorvos that's in the No Pest Strips (there are dichlorvos resistant mites in SoCal, seen 'em myself).

JMS Stylet or other horticultural oil, again applied every three days to saturation of all plant material will also do the trick.

Key with all of the aforementioned treatments except the NPS is getting all surfaces where a mite might hide.

Once you get those under control, you may see other issues resolved, or they may stand out more clearly to you.

alpinehi · Mar 18, 2014

Organic oils on there own are not super effective at controlling mites. There are certain additives that can be combined with these oils in order to increase there efficacy like piperonyl butoxide. Floramite about every two to three months is the best thing that I have used and I have tried many a product and method.

Mr.sativa · Mar 18, 2014

Mites suck!! Feel your pain cleanliness is next to godliness in my grow room

gumby420 · Mar 18, 2014

Seamaiden said:
A 1:1 mix of isopropyl applied every three days to saturation will kill off mites pretty well (don't let too much get into the soil, none of you can help it). Rosemary essential oil mixed at 2% (gotta be emulsified) will do it, applied the same way, but safer than the iso.

Azamax/Azatrol are two products that are derivatives of neem and mites do not become resistant to them, as they have the dichlorvos that's in the No Pest Strips (there are dichlorvos resistant mites in SoCal, seen 'em myself).

JMS Stylet or other horticultural oil, again applied every three days to saturation of all plant material will also do the trick.

Key with all of the aforementioned treatments except the NPS is getting all surfaces where a mite might hide.

Once you get those under control, you may see other issues resolved, or they may stand out more clearly to you.

Seamaiden, thanks for your help as always, youve saved me once before on a crop so your advice is much appreciated. as far as the iso 1:1 mix, what % of iso should i use, 70% or 91%? Also, i take it this will have an adverse effect on the bennies in my soil. im just shocked the floramite didnt kill them off, normally that shit works wonders for me. these plants are not going into flower for at least another month, so if i have to use some "harder" pesticides to get rid of them im not super opposed at this point. thanks again everyone!! this i was why i always come to the farm.

Seamaiden · Mar 19, 2014

Either one is fine. I've read from someone else who uses a much lower ratio of iso to water, around 1Tablespoon per gallon, IIRC.

If you get the alcohol mixture into the soil, it WILL kill microbes, no doubt about it. So, either cover the soil or take other measures to ensure you don't get the soil saturated with it.

If Floramite didn't do it, then you must consider that the mites are resistant to it by this point. I would avoid working with other chemicals and use physical barrier (horticultural oils), desiccation methods (the iso), or something like Azamax/Azatrol, which mites have been found not to build resistance to (learned on me via babaG).

salmonslammer · Mar 19, 2014

If you do have root aphids a little tanglefoot around the trunk also helps just my 2 cents :D

TheDankBlog · Apr 12, 2014

Check this out. http://www.thedankblog.com/grow-tips/the-all-dreaded-spider-mite/ It's about the importance of switching mite sprays regularly to prevent them from building up a resistance. I know they're tough though. I never tried it but I heard you could open up your co2 tank and blast it to about 10,000 ppm for about 10 min. That would kill everything in the room, EVERYTHING, so I would be cautious if trying that method.

Seamaiden · Apr 13, 2014

TheDankBlog said:
Check this out. http://www.thedankblog.com/grow-tips/the-all-dreaded-spider-mite/ It's about the importance of switching mite sprays regularly to prevent them from building up a resistance. I know they're tough though. I never tried it but I heard you could open up your co2 tank and blast it to about 10,000 ppm for about 10 min. That would kill everything in the room, EVERYTHING, so I would be cautious if trying that method.

Brother, you've got to learn some new methods for dealing with spider mites. That heavy artillery you have in your blog is not necessary, not by any means.

TheDankBlog · Apr 13, 2014

Seamaiden said:
Brother, you've got to learn some new methods for dealing with spider mites. That heavy artillery you have in your blog is not necessary, not by any means.

I wouldn't say "not by any means", but point taken. I'm going to update my blog to stress that floramite and avid are only for extreme cases and that either product should not be used more than once during the plants life cycle never after 2~3 weeks into flower. I do believe in other methods but sometimes mites are relentless.

Seamaiden · Apr 14, 2014

Yeah, you should see my toyon. It's a spider mite nursery. That said, I'm strictly organic and am able to deal with them using a small ounce of prevention, my favorite being JMS Stylet oil. Beyond that I've gotten fantastic results using rosemary essential oil.

Bug problem?

Bug problem?

gumby420

OrganicGanja

Seamaiden

Living dead girl

gumby420

justanotherbozo

Seamaiden

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alpinehi

Mr.sativa

gumby420

Seamaiden

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salmonslammer

TheDankBlog

Seamaiden

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TheDankBlog

Seamaiden

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Bug problem?

Bug problem?

gumby420

OrganicGanja

Seamaiden

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gumby420

justanotherbozo

Seamaiden

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alpinehi

Mr.sativa

gumby420

Seamaiden

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salmonslammer

TheDankBlog

Seamaiden

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TheDankBlog

Seamaiden

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