What r u feeding and how often.

Fed Daily Lucas Ratio.. 700 ppm ph 6.0 RO ... ocean forrest happy frog pro mix combo

NorthernMich said:

Fed Daily Lucas Ratio.. 700 ppm ph 6.0 RO ... ocean forrest happy frog pro mix combo

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What is your IPM regiment? Happy frog may be too nutrient rich to run bottled nutes in veg. It's hard to tell if it's a nutrient imbalance or pestilence.

"Ingredients: Composted forest humus,sphagnum peat moss, perlite,earthworm castings, bat guano, humic acid (derived from Leonardite), oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment)."

I don't know why they're using oyster shell and dolomite. I'm thinking it's something with potassium, calcium, or magnesium. Too much of any of these will lock one another out.

Your bottled nutes are very acidic. Acidic enough to attach hydrogen ions to these immobile elements. When you compile the cal/mag or potassium from your bottled nutes you are overloading the plant.

This one gets complicated. I dont feel like reading word for word but too much mag locks out calcium and potassium. It's easy to achieve too much magnesium. Plants do not utilize as much as hydro companies would like you to believe. Too much calcium will lock up magnesium. They can also lock out potassium.

Your best bet if you are feeding bottles nutes is to use a mix that has no amendments to begin with such as HP promix.

Or....do what I do go buy 3.6 cubic foot spangnum peat moss, Some decent bagged compost or EWC and some perlite or another. I would only amend with crab meal and oyster shell flour only for pH stabilization and the crustacean meals also contain chitin which increases a plants natural defenses against pests. IPM is still a must.

As far as effective foliar IPMs I recommend weekly neem oil/silica/aloe/lemongrass oil. Make sure lights are out until it dries. The oil will allow the light to burn your plants.

Most "product" IPMs secretly contain certain nutrients such as sulfur, potassium, or magnesium in salt form which give your plants temporary vigor until the plant wants to naturally uptake nutrients in the soil that are in carbonate form.

It gets complicated. Check this chart @DrMcSkunkins posted.

Home made soil Mix
Mix this in the following amounts:

• 1 part EWC or bagged compost
• 1 part spagnum peat
• 1 part aeration (perlite, rice hulls, uncharted biochar, etc.)
• Oyster shell flour (mix according to sources instructions)
• Crab shell meal (mix according to instructions)

Now you have a better and more balances mix of soil than FFOF. You can use this for bottles but avoid cal/mag products. Between this mix and the oyster shell flour and crustacean meal you should have plenty of calcium. Mag deficiencies are not due to there not being enough available mag. They are causes by lockout due due excess calcium or potassium. However potassium and sulfur defficiency will decrease your plants ability to process nutrients of any kind.

People think if they add more the.plant is going.to turn into.the giant beanstalk but it's quite.the opposite. Stunted grow, poor root and.flower development are caused by nutrient imbalances way more often than not enough. It just has to be balanced.

Lol long.post but I wanted to cover follow up questions.

Thanks for your input... I will use less of the fox farm soils in my next mix Also I was going to give it cal mag thinking it was low , I will def hold off on that for now,.. I will see how it goes.. with a little less of the lucas ratio thanks for your reply very helpful.

Just noticed burned tips. It's something coming on too strong. Either transplant into an inert or understand your imbalance and feed around it. For instance no calmag. There's already too much mag with the dolo. Oyster shell is pure calcium carbonate. Dolo is 2cal/1mag. EWC or compost contain plenty of mag.

You have a good eye There is very little tip burn. But it is there. Going to lighten up on the Nutes and change my soil mix.. thanks will be posting an update in a couple weeks.

Here is another photo..

Don't forget to check for bugs. They can cause all sorts of defficiency like symptoms. I do weekly foliar and soil surface sprays with

• 1/2 tsp dynagro cold pressed neem oil
• 1/2 Meyers all natural lavender dish soap to help emulsify the oil and help it suspend in the water more evenly
• 1/4 tsp powdered aloe as a wetting agent for better coverage
• 5 drops organic lemongrass essential oil which knocks down the stink of the neem and also acts as a deterrent. I also feel like mixed viscosity oils are more effective

I add all this to a quart of luke warm water and shake the hell out of it. Throw it in my sprayer and hit them from above and under the leaves. You have to get in there and move foliage around. Stop using it once you start seeing blooms after 12/12.

Someone said could be broadmites? Looked with 100x scope did not see anything and then someone said the hemp virus.... Hope its just too much food but on the other hand I have been feeding like this since 09.

NorthernMich said:

Someone said could be broadmites? Looked with 100x scope did not see anything and then someone said the hemp virus.... Hope its just too much food but on the other hand I have been feeding like this since 09.

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If you have leaf canoeing and or clawing even here and there it's excess nitrogen. The deficiencies show long before extreme clawing. Nitrogen abundance locks potassium up. Potassium is fundamental in plant development and protein synthesis so it pretty much slows your plants ability to synthesize any nutrients. Similar to broadies.

No signs of canoeing or clawing.. Just going to stop the nutes for a bit then lower them.. see how that goes.

Just go 1/2 strength.

I had a similar issue right after flipping to flower, with straight FFOF - no nutrients added. I brewed a compost tea with OG Biowar Root & Foliar packs (per the instructions on OG Biowar website - using Earthworm castings & molasses) and the symptoms totally disappeared from new growth, and stopped spreading on old growth. I did a soil drench and foliar spray. Wish I could tell you how or why it solved the problem, but all I know is that it worked!

Did you use the root first then do a plant soaking with the foliar ? Your plants looks to have the identical problem.. Wonder what it is?

NorthernMich said:

Here is another photo..

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Try not getting the leaves wet for a while.

NorthernMich said:

Did you use the root first then do a plant soaking with the foliar ? Your plants looks to have the identical problem.. Wonder what it is?

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I combined the root and foliar in the compost tea. 30 hour brew. There is a recipe on the OG Biowar site. Then used the brew for foliar spray and soil drench, as is. Make sure you foliar spray an hour or two before lights on (or leave lights off for first couple hours) so that tea dries before lights come on.

Check out this thread. DrMcSkunkins posted a great diagnosis poster. I'm thinking might have been calcium deficiency (per the chart) on my plant, as it experienced very stunted growth. Also, after topping, my stems were growing almost horizontally.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...-in-veg-stage-suggestions.89495/#post-1934647

From the diagnosis poster it is very had to see the difference between the cal def, and the mag def.. thanks for posting.