Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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Exactly, tunneling air to create a choke point, so that your getting increased air flows. It's a brilliant strategy no doubt. I see this all the time standing among the tall buildings in downtown Seattle, especially around the corners. Your essentially increasing the evaporation off the surface of the plant by targeting the air flow.I have to add here that we are unable to control the environment to any real degree. So we use it to our advantage. We know that plants thrive outside here, so we mimic it as best we can with open tents and enough fans to re-create the trades inside. (15-20 mph breeze we usually have.) We have had zero issues with PM or bud rot even though it is insanely humid often.
Here’s the recipe I picked up online in another forum - (works 100% of the time from my experience)So just chatting w a dude that has a nice sized outdoor garden and he always gets PM to some degree. He said H2O2 works best but burns the hairs up. Not sure how strong he mixes tho. Said it affects the look of finished product but it’s taking over a plant might be best plan.
His take is that not keeping on top of pruning the insides of these trees allows for it to get started and didn’t have fans. So to get through the season the poly is going up if it rains and putting in an industrial fan on the generator to blow down the rows.
"" You dont want more Moisture but your just using it fast as possible....you can do it without hitting budsites...you have to be careful...Foliage only...PM attacks leaves and will rest on stalks and shoots.""Here’s the recipe I picked up online in another forum - (works 100% of the time from my experience)
Application: Make a 0.5–2.0% solution (5–20 grams per liter) of potassium bicarbonate to water. Spray directly onto mildew infected plant tissue. Repeat weekly.
Cannabis Guru Ed Rosenthal’s formula uses an ounce of potassium bicarbonate mixed into a gallon of water and 1½ cups of milk.
The only issue is that it will burn out the pistils if the buds get sprayed. That being said, FOE20 (earlier in this thread) said I should follow the PB spray with washing down the plant with high ph’d water. I’m going to test this tonight on a few branches and see how it the pistils hold up. I’ll be back with my results!
Sorry about the outdoor stuff, I got no help there except be careful with the selection of genetics. Some plants seem impervious to PM unless you really neglect them. If I was outside I would seek those out.What are your night time humidity settings? I hear it’s good to get them down around 40? I’m somewhere up near 55.
my outside plants have it too. I feel like, if I’m going to spray my buds, I’ve ruined the entire grow. Other than High ph water (which didn’t help) everything has burned the pistils and ruined the quality.
I agree with you, however VPD is a daytime only measurement, and IMO most PM gets a foothold at night.This. Decreasing humidity all the time won't necessarily help, but keeping plants in VPD will. PM isn't just caused by moisture, it's caused by fluctuations in the temperature and humidity outside of proper VPD.
My flower room is at 60% humidity right now and I haven't seen PM in years. Humidity isn't the enemy with PM (or botrytis), an improper balance of humidity/temperature/airflow is.
The best preventative is proper VPD. The best treatment is micronized sulfur, sprayed regularly.
I agree with you, however VPD is a daytime only measurement, and IMO most PM gets a foothold at night.
I would be in complete agreement if the statement were amended to ... Proper VPD stuff you said..... and as low as you can reasonably make RH when the lights are off.
I haven't seem PM in years either but I have lost entire crops to it early on. Sux.
Agreed, I got a lot of small dense plants that I grow indoors, and if I don't stay on top of them they get so thick that problems develop. So I generally do a gentle defol in those cases, so better penetration of air movement and light is able to occur.So just chatting w a dude that has a nice sized outdoor garden and he always gets PM to some degree. He said H2O2 works best but burns the hairs up. Not sure how strong he mixes tho. Said it affects the look of finished product but it’s taking over a plant might be best plan.
His take is that not keeping on top of pruning the insides of these trees allows for it to get started and didn’t have fans. So to get through the season the poly is going up if it rains and putting in an industrial fan on the generator to blow down the rows.
Agreed, it's usually happening in the late dark hours, when the dewpoint is lowest and relative humidity is usually highest. These two factors are conjoined at the hip so to speak.I agree with you, however VPD is a daytime only measurement, and IMO most PM gets a foothold at night.
I would be in complete agreement if the statement were amended to ... Proper VPD stuff you said..... and as low as you can reasonably make RH when the lights are off.
I haven't seem PM in years either but I have lost entire crops to it early on. Sux.
Yes, I use uvb, and live in very humid area. Live 1 mile from lake huron, and 100 yards from a river that runs to it. Never get PM at my garden. I've seen a very small amount. Never been an issue so far.Agreed, it's usually happening in the late dark hours, when the dewpoint is lowest and relative humidity is usually highest. These two factors are conjoined at the hip so to speak.
I think this thread is useful, because it show's the newer growers how multifaceted PM and mold issues are, it's not any single factor, but multiple. So are the remedy, not any single thing to be done (especially when dehumid is removed).
Raising pH (PM and Fungus grow in acidic environments).
Increasing air flow throughout the plant or by thinning.
Use of mold inhibitors. Lactobacillus can be very effective in controlling diseases like Powdery Mildew. (I personally use lactobacillus acidophilus)
Lactobacillus Serum | NaturalGardenOz
Lactobacillus Serum as a Gardening Solutionwww.naturalgardenoz.com
I also use UV light for this purpose (and increasing resin production)
A team of researchers led by David Gadoury, a plant pathologist at Cornell AgriTech in Geneva, New York, is looking into the control of powdery mildew using UV (A-B) light. ... The application of UV light at night can effectively zap the mildew's DNA and kill it.
Using Ultraviolet Light as a Way to Control Powdery Mildew
Somchai Rice It’s been a weird year. I spent some time in the field of virology, specifically in the detection of viral diseases in production animal medicine, using polymerase chain reaction (PCR) before I started graduate school. When I finished my work, I always cleaned my workspace in the...www.extension.iastate.edu
Lastly, I would add being proactive, as once molds get any type of foothold, it's virtually impossible to control, the real keys here are prevention.
Using UV light at night doesn’t mess with plants in flower? I thought lights out means nothing but dark. How are you approaching this with UV lighting?Yes, I use uvb, and live in very humid area. Live 1 mile from lake huron, and 100 yards from a river that runs to it. Never get PM at my garden. I've seen a very small amount. Never been an issue so far.
I turn mine on during the day. 3 hours during peak hours.Using UV light at night doesn’t mess with plants in flower? I thought lights out means nothing but dark. How are you approaching this with UV lighting?
This is because 99% of all the breeding work in the West has been done indoors for generations thanks to prohibition and, lately, misconceptions. Humboldt strains were popular because they were often selected for outdoor or greenhouse growing, where humidity levels (among other things) are often not optimal. Growers with imperfect conditions would actually have successful harvests.Bottom line, the plant needs to be in that proper humidification zone, not too high, not too low. In a targeted range. When temperature, humidity controls go out the window, it makes this ever more problematic. In an outdoor setting, it seems to me that potentially air movement (fans) and osmotic concentrations (foliar) are regulating factors that can be potentially harnessed here, as we no longer control temperature, nor humidity.
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