Okay thanks for the info, I thought 6.2 was optimal PH for this stage, I will lower to 6.0 then 5.8, I only recently calibrated my PH20 Apera device with 4, 7 and 10 solutions so I think its accurate.6.2 is at the maximum range. I would target 5.8 ph. AT 6.2 is when you should be taking action to lower it. So if you are feeding 6.2, feed it 5.8 and fix that ph issue.
I hear the "POP" of the unwanted now and again on myBeen checking for a while now not seen any signs of any, also bough a few yellow sticky traps which have been in the soil for about 2 weeks nothing on them at all, underneath leafs looks great, any other ways I can check for pests?
Thanks for the info I've ordered one of them will be interesting!I hear the "POP" of the unwanted now and again on my
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For whatever reason it looks like severalView attachment 2333343
Thanks for looking into this! And I appreciate the luck :D I've finally got my RO/DI system working with 0ppm, I added calmag until 0.4EC then canna nutrients and my EC went to 1.1EC, PH was spot on 6.0 after mixing so I didnt adjust using PH up/down.I was just going over this with a buddy of mine so I have to agree with @Bdubs
In the very first photo you posted, you can see the beginning of necrosis on the top side of your leaf as well as leaf deformations. There’s also some spots that are really looking like the leaf is gonna go the way of the great white buffalo soon, but if the leaf continues to fade into yellow and starts to get some Darker spots black spots as well as some brown burnt spots, you’re definitely looking at high pH and at first glance here, I’m seeing some precursors that
Otherwise, I have seen critters cause the same exact amount of damage to leaves definitely the twisting in the malformations and younger leaves because they definitely can’t stand barrage from fungus gnats especially younger growth.
But there is some key things that are popping up on some of your leaves that are making me lean more towards the pH issue. Good luck, man.
From what I can see in the pictures, it seems new growth may also be affected. That makes me wonder whether mold may be the problem. Adjusting the temperature and humidity could fix it. I suggest upping the temperature to 25ºC or 26ºC (77℉ to 79℉) and lowering the humidity to about 55% RH.- 24c 71% RH stable environment
I think your might be onto something here, at the end of the first week I forgot to open the window and noticed quite a bit of black mold around the window, I cleaned it all up using mildew remover, setup my dehumidifier in my room and thought nothing of it.From what I can see in the pictures, it seems new growth may also be affected. That makes me wonder whether mold may be the problem. Adjusting the temperature and humidity could fix it. I suggest upping the temperature to 25ºC or 26ºC (77℉ to 79℉) and lowering the humidity to about 55% RH.
I’m so dumb6.2 is at the maximum range. I would target 5.8 ph. AT 6.2 is when you should be taking action to lower it. So if you are feeding 6.2, feed it 5.8 and fix that ph issue.
I was just going over this with a buddy of mine so I have to agree with @Bdubs
In the very first photo you posted, you can see the beginning of necrosis on the top side of your leaf as well as leaf deformations. There’s also some spots that are really looking like the leaf is gonna go the way of the great white buffalo soon, but if the leaf continues to fade into yellow and starts to get some Darker spots black spots as well as some brown burnt spots, you’re definitely looking at high pH and at first glance here, I’m seeing some precursors that
Otherwise, I have seen critters cause the same exact amount of damage to leaves definitely the twisting in the malformations and younger leaves because they definitely can’t stand barrage from fungus gnats especially younger growth.
But there is some key things that are popping up on some of your leaves that are making me lean more towards the pH issue. Good luck, man.
Mold can be controlled by keeping the humidity below 60%. The problem might not be mold, though. I couldn't see it well. Either way, I think your humidity was too high and your temperature too low. I don't know if being out of range could cause the problem you were having, but getting the settings dialed in should make the plant healthier. So, I'd let it grow for a few days with the new settings to see if it improves. If it is mold, it is less likely to propagate in the lower humidity. You can cut off the affected leaves as the plant grows.I think your might be onto something here, at the end of the first week I forgot to open the window and noticed quite a bit of black mold around the window, I cleaned it all up using mildew remover, setup my dehumidifier in my room and thought nothing of it.
I've removed my humidifier from the tent now and its settling around 52-58% RH and 24c-26c now, previously I had coded a system which made the environment VPD perfect using smart plugs some sensors and python, I'll keep the humidifier out for a bit and see if I get any improvement.
If it is a mold will she be okay now I've changed the RH? I heard you should scrap any plants with mold on, I can't visually see any mold at all on the leafs, stem or coco. Some sites say you can use a mold spray to treat it but I'm a bit worried that would cause more issues.
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