T
theTinker
- 366
- 18
3. That's why I'm thinking more along the lines of a car radiator with a fan mounted to it and sucking cold air through the fins. This will certainly actively pull a lot more heat, and won't be an expensive proposition. If I find the right fan it would be pretty quiet, and I think I could even set up a thermal switch and have it run only when water temps exceed a given differential.
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...=1034&osCsid=07445124688a150372b2c89bfc5c78a1
Do you mean like this?
Im very interested in using something like this to cool a tent. I have access to external so i could leave a can of water outside where it gets cold for most of the year!.
Do you think a fan on a scrap car radiator would do the trick? Im not sure what temperatur delta would be needed for the water/ambient air temp in tent to be useful. And if the trash can would over heat or if the can would never get warm due to the radiator not dissapating enough heat to water.
You guys know you can use an Ice Box in reverse right? Just put the Ice Box outside with an inline fan blowing through it, the 8" should be able to give you about 8,000 BTU, or more depending on how much airflow and the temp outside. You might could get 12k BTU out of it when its below freezing out. You can even put the Ice Box and fan inside and just duct the outside air in and out, like people do for reflectors.
You guys know you can use an Ice Box in reverse right? Just put the Ice Box outside with an inline fan blowing through it, the 8" should be able to give you about 8,000 BTU, or more depending on how much airflow and the temp outside. You might could get 12k BTU out of it when its below freezing out. You can even put the Ice Box and fan inside and just duct the outside air in and out, like people do for reflectors.
If I'll be okay with the chiller in the window, do I need the heater at all? Anything I can do to skip the expense of the heater and just use house heat? It will get damned cold around here soon, and I don't want any nasty surprises. By the time it gets that cold though, I'm likely to be utilizing the full cooling capacity of the chiller. Will that make a difference? Maybe if I knew exactly what components were most vulnerable to low temps and why?
Shortly, I'm gonna be cranking up to full output; 8 x 1kW lights, dehuey and 54 sites worth of RDWC systems in bloom room, 2 x 1kW lights and 26 sites of RDWC in the veg room.
1. If the chiller never shuts off for more than 5 or 10 minutes, will I need a heater at all?
2. Also, this is gonna be waaaay more BTUs than even a metal trash can sitting outside will be able to dissipate. The surface area alone just won't suffice. And if it's full of water and that water freezes solid (as it would if my cooling system were to be shut off during a COLD night), my water line inside is toast, and so is my cooling system!
3. That's why I'm thinking more along the lines of a car radiator with a fan mounted to it and sucking cold air through the fins. This will certainly actively pull a lot more heat, and won't be an expensive proposition. If I find the right fan it would be pretty quiet, and I think I could even set up a thermal switch and have it run only when water temps exceed a given differential. This could then daisychain on the same waterline upstream of the chiller itself, allowing the chiller to work a lot less- or if it's cold enough out- not at all. Am I on the right track here? Would you think it would be better on its own circuit? Of course I'd build some sort of insulating box I could cover the whole thing with in the event of a warm day in January, which happens regularly. It's a given I'd be running glycol in the chiller system, I'd be a fool not to.
Yo anyone know how much heat a submersable pump in putting my my chiller res... it a 1/3 hp submersable... would an inline pump be better and put off less heat?
Yes I'm aware of that, and the reasons I didn't go with that plan initially are as follows:
1. I'm trying to remove heat generated by 8-12 x 1kW lights. Since the hoods and ballasts are already aircooled (though I might do the outside ducting thing for them, come to think of it), I'm down to cooling just the radiant heat into the sealed rooms. That's still on the order of 24,000-36,000BTU, much more than twice an Iceflow box's maximum potential.
2. A junkyard radiator that's 15" x 24" or so, a buddy to braze some smaller fittings onto it and a box fan (or an electric automotive fan and shroud, even better) all add up to substantially less than the $200 for just one 8" Iceflow box, even without the fan. No matter which way I go, I'm still on the hook for 25-30 gallons of glycol. Know where I can pick that up relatively cheaply? Also, I'm thinking I'll need two thermally activated interrupt switches. One for the water, to turn ON when the water temp rises above 55 degrees, and another that will turn it OFF if outside amibient temps are above 55 degrees.
3. The radiator will be big in terms of capacity, and should easily have the potential to remove enough heat that on cold nights with ambient temps below 40, I'm thinking the chiller might not need to run at all. That represents the savings I'd be doing all this to gain.
4. Pulling outside air inside in the winter in Colorado is risky business, since it can be far below freezing at night in deep winter- negative 25 degrees is a perfectly normal occasional scenario that needs to be planned for, and records around here indicate the possibility of minus 45. Condensation, freezing of unintended components and serious heat loss all come to mind...
I like how you think, Chill- let me know if I'm on the right track or barking up the wrong tree here.
there are a few ways to do this your way with the car radiator and fan is probably the cheapest. but could use ice boxes, heat-x-tractors or there are even compressorless chillers which do exactly what you are trying to accomplish but they definatly cost more than your idea but are alot easier. no fabricating or searching for all the correct parts, all of these other products are just plugged in and hoses conected running. one way saves money and the other save you time and work depends which is more important to you. in the summer you might need a bigger chiller to run that many watts in the warm months.
Current project, less ambitious but more important to the success of my cloning op; I've beenn reading up on how people get their ezcloners to work for them, and one big issue was temperature management. They said to keep the water temp around 70 for best results, and I've had trouble getting mine to stay at that temp. I can't go adding ice every few hours, or a bottle full of ice from the freezer. Sooo... I did this:
The problem now is that even with the coil, the temps are still 5 degrees too high. My theory is that there isn't enough surface area of contact between the copper coil and the hard plastic bottom of my ezcloner 30. I could use a wet towel, but that would quickly mold and become a nasty mess. Any ideas?
You could try cutting a piece off about 15", coating it with something like plasitkote (lowes), and putting it directly in the res. Plastikote should be fine after its had time to fully dry, it putts a rubberized thin coating on the surface. This should block the copper from being leached in to the system, this is all speculation on my part.
You could try cutting a piece off about 15", coating it with something like plasitkote (lowes), and putting it directly in the res. Plastikote should be fine after its had time to fully dry, it putts a rubberized thin coating on the surface. This should block the copper from being leached in to the system, this is all speculation on my part.
Hey Ttstikk I had a idea just use the 1/2" hose over the copper.(I see you have some in the pic)]
also soak hose in hot tap water 10 to 15 mins will help getting the hose over copper and at the end just hose clamp another hose to like 1" of the copper that is outside the cloner to not effect it. Maybe couple sheets aluminum foil to transfer over the whole bottom of the cloner. the aluminum will multiply transfer area very well. Go your fiber ins.- board, copper coil, aluminum foil then cloner on that.You can go up the sides as well as insulate the sides. (should have foil in kitchen). I am all about getting around corners by rounding them out cheap but right!!
Maybe couple sheets aluminum foil to transfer over the whole bottom of the cloner. the aluminum will multiply transfer area very well. Go your fiber ins.- board, copper coil, aluminum foil then cloner on that.You can go up the sides as well as insulate the sides. (should have foil in kitchen). I am all about getting around corners by rounding them out cheap but right!!
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?