OCKushCollector
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Best article I've found on the net! Thanks for thorough and easy to understand guideline. You're a Godsend!Solving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems
OK rule number #1 when you see this happening is flush with 25% nutrients; use 2 to 3 times the pot size to do this. Flushing means lots of run-off. You use 25% because some elements are not mobile without other elements, so if you have a mag lock up flushing with water won't get the mag out, as it needs nitrogen to be mobile. Your killing your plants with kindness remember they are weeds. Here are more answers for you, you might want to save it for reference later The only time you don't use rule #1 is in the last 2 weeks of flower when bottom leaves stop being used for photosynthesis.
Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.
A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.
The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.
- Too much marijuana fertilizer
The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigour and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.- High Heat
The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.- Too much light
Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.- Over Watering
For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.- Not Enough Water
Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.
I Have The Plant In Here And I Been Giving It This For A Week And It's Been Like That For 3Days What Should I DoIt helps if you tell about your grow. Type of medium, nute line, lighting and exhaust.
Willing to bet thats a mag deficiency @Phockshlock. Leafs all over the plant are turning light green besides the darker veins. Mag is mobile so it will affect different parts of the plant. Also the stem is purple and that is a mag deficiency sign as well. I would try foiler spraying with a tablespoon of Epson salts per gal of water with a ph between 6.5 and 7.0. Its hard to over do it so try that once a day for a week and see if anything improves. Also are you using cal mag in your res? If not I would definitely grab some. Thats my 2 cents anyway. :)
Thanx againThanks I'll give it a try and get back to you soon as I know if they have improvedView attachment 913830View attachment 913831View attachment 913830View attachment 913831View attachment 913832View attachment 913833View attachment 913834
While waiting for the cal-mag to be delivered tomorrow I tried a foilar spray if there usual nutes and this is how they look today, doing fantastic and improved so much, will flush today with 25% nutes to help with anything that might be locked in or out? Still learning all the needs of modern day grow, will still use the cal-mag as advised as soon as it arrives hopefully tomorrow day after latest, I'm thinking that it might have been the pot binding after all? and the girls needed to get used to the fact that they are in bigger pots and they did over night last night?Thanks I'll give it a try and get back to you soon as I know if they have improvedView attachment 913830View attachment 913831View attachment 913830View attachment 913831View attachment 913832View attachment 913833View attachment 913834
Hi there, Thanx so much for your input, I just wanted to let you know that you were absolutely 100% right! All they needed was folia feeding, I hadn't been doing it enough in fear of burning them, I also knew I eventually would need some Cal-Mag but just hadn't gotten it yet, unfortunately I was cashless at the time you advised me so I went ahead and ordered the Cal-Mag online (Afterpay lol) and while waiting for 3 days for it to arrive I used their usual nutes (Aussie Magic Grow Juice for 1st stage of growth) with loads of Cal-Mag in it diluted @ 50% as a folia feed daily as you told me but I diluted it incase of burning them and they're looking great not 100% yet but I can confidently say that during the day they are looking about 90-95% except for 2 that were sickest I'd say that they are looking about 80-85% during the day, compared to what they were like less than a week ago, all below 50% of life left in them, they had little chance of living without a good diagnosis, I would have tried Cal-Mag but by the time I received it they would have gotten too sick to recover without too much stress, now they look like they will be great plants after all that they went through, there is no more crab claws, they are full of life, stronger, greener and growing quickly again, even the 2 sickest girl's are growing again, I received my order of Cal-Mag today and I'll give them a folia spray tonight and feed tomorrow inline with their usual nutes feeding routine so I don't burn them? I've added some pics of how they're looking today, you'll notice that 2 look like they have a little less growth, they have been topped just yesterday as it was the right time and were healthiest and growing too fast lolWilling to bet thats a mag deficiency @Phockshlock. Leafs all over the plant are turning light green besides the darker veins. Mag is mobile so it will affect different parts of the plant. Also the stem is purple and that is a mag deficiency sign as well. I would try foiler spraying with a tablespoon of Epson salts per gal of water with a ph between 6.5 and 7.0. Its hard to over do it so try that once a day for a week and see if anything improves. Also are you using cal mag in your res? If not I would definitely grab some. Thats my 2 cents anyway. :)
While waiting for the cal-mag to be delivered tomorrow I tried a foilar spray if there usual nutes and this is how they look today, doing fantastic and improved so much, will flush today with 25% nutes to help with anything that might be locked in or out? Still learning all the needs of modern day grow, will still use the cal-mag as advised as soon as it arrives hopefully tomorrow day after latest, I'm thinking that it might have been the pot binding after all? and the girls needed to get used to the fact that they are in bigger pots and they did over night last night?
This is how they're looking today, it was a very windy day so they're on a little bit of a lean atm and the pic is taken after the sun has gone down so there tops are a little closed but we're perky as can be today in full sun, Very Happy to not be loosing themView attachment 914520View attachment 914521View attachment 914522View attachment 914523View attachment 914524View attachment 914525
I am by far no expert but I have had this problem with my seedlings last year when I first started using Coco coir and it was Coco burn, yes sometimes at this stage of early growth the nutes in Coco coir can be too strong for them and will cause nute burn, this will usually correct itself as they get used to the coco again I'm no expert but I'd try flushing with just plain adjusted water at pH 5.5 - 6 unless anyone else has given you better advice or can say I'm wrong I'd give it a try for the litte one, good luck@ganjagrin would ya know wats up with this wee one??
I would start by flushing it. She looks fried. What are your temps in the tent and humidity
I would like to know as well. I have one just like it.@ganjagrin would ya know wats up with this wee one??
How tf is this helpful you just gave him 10 different reasons alavergaSolving Marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems
OK rule number #1 when you see this happening is flush with 25% nutrients; use 2 to 3 times the pot size to do this. Flushing means lots of run-off. You use 25% because some elements are not mobile without other elements, so if you have a mag lock up flushing with water won't get the mag out, as it needs nitrogen to be mobile. Your killing your plants with kindness remember they are weeds. Here are more answers for you, you might want to save it for reference later The only time you don't use rule #1 is in the last 2 weeks of flower when bottom leaves stop being used for photosynthesis.
Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.
A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.
The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.
- Too much marijuana fertilizer
The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigour and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.- High Heat
The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.- Too much light
Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.- Over Watering
For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.- Not Enough Water
Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.
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