Chemdawg Nutrient Deffiency?

[bubbalova]

Any input in this yall?

 

[happy b]

What medium are they in?i dont want to state the obvious but have you tried increasing the N in your feeding schedule?have you checked the ph of your medium?it may be a little easier for someone to help diagnose your problem with a little back ground info and what youv already tried yourself.love your handle by the way @bubbalova.

 

[bubbalova]

Medium: Roots organic
Ph: 6.4 6.7 (I did suspect this to be the culprit)
Nutrients: Bio Canna line

The teason for the low ph is vecuase I have another strain that dominates the room (OGK) an she prefers lower, an I can be forgetful and give that same to the chem. But I would say nitrogen could also be a factor being I am a light feeder. I just like to get input before I start takeing steps to rectify the issue.

 

[happy b]

Your ph sounds ok bubba,id leave that as it is.what you want to do is increase the amount of canna grow(which is what i use myself)in your feeding schedule.slowly increase it to full strength over the next few feedings and you should be golden.i had similar problems myself with underdawg og as i often er on the side of caution too,but the canna organic line is a great line and the canna grow sorted it right out over a period of about 10days to 2weeks.

 

[bubbalova]

Thanks for the advice @happy b
I will start that that today, I will let you know how she is in roughly 10 days then.

 

[happy b]

Pleas do bubba.just a wee bit of advice on chem genetics,they are very light sensitive.i couldnt get to my room during lights on a couple off times wen i was growing chem genetics so i had no choice but to open the door of my grow cupboard to feed during lights out.i had the curtains shut in the room cupboard is in with room light off,it was very dull.i only had it open gor maybe 2mins at most each time and after like the third or fourth time doing that they started to re veg.i know your prob thinking "you opened it during lights out,what do you expect" but there was next to no light atall.it added about three weeks grow time and good bit of yeild.good luck.bubbalova.

 

[FlyinJStable]

IMO if you can get a Calcium Nitrate supplement (a bat guano if Organic) or if a salts guy pure is available 15-0-0 from most nursery's.
.5 gm per gal or 100 to 150 ppm That is just a thought IMHO
I only use Jacks Pro so I am a salts Guy
and Capulators Teas once a week
Respect and Good Vibes FlyJ

 

[Seamaiden]

Any input in this yall?

They are growing very rapidly. I'm with happy b, increase the N a little bit, see what happens.

Both happy and FlyinJ have given you good advice here.

 

[john martin]

I use the roots master feed schedule and it works great, but if I skip the foliar feeding or dry amendments my plants start fading like in your pictures.

Start foliar feeding those babies with their Ancient Amber, which will help with fast acting nitrogen.

Use the elementals product, which is fast acting cal/mag.

Twisting of the leafs happens when I don't give enough elementals, like in your pics above.

If my theory is correct they will start getting yellowing and burn spots on the sides of the leafs that are actually cal/mag def.

Use bigworm, or another worm castings product for most fast acting nitrogen.

Use either amino aide, or Grow-N.

Looks like very low nitrogen and/or lack of cal/mag needed to use the nitrogen.

I also supplement with insect frass in my tea (roots nutrients are best brewed for a day, so I brew the dry amendments with the frass as a bonus).

The ONFrass is supposed to be 2-2-2, but independent testing shows it more like 3-2-2 or 4-2-2ish, so it is a good boost of nitrogen and beneficial fungus / bacteria and helps a lot with nitrogen deficiency in this lineup.

 

[bubbalova]

I use the roots master feed schedule and it works great, but if I skip the foliar feeding or dry amendments my plants start fading like in your pictures.

Start foliar feeding those babies with their Ancient Amber, which will help with fast acting nitrogen.

Use the elementals product, which is fast acting cal/mag.

Twisting of the leafs happens when I don't give enough elementals, like in your pics above.

If my theory is correct they will start getting yellowing and burn spots on the sides of the leafs that are actually cal/mag def.

Use bigworm, or another worm castings product for most fast acting nitrogen.

Use either amino aide, or Grow-N.

Looks like very low nitrogen and/or lack of cal/mag needed to use the nitrogen.

I also supplement with insect frass in my tea (roots nutrients are best brewed for a day, so I brew the dry amendments with the frass as a bonus).

The ONFrass is supposed to be 2-2-2, but independent testing shows it more like 3-2-2 or 4-2-2ish, so it is a good boost of nitrogen and beneficial fungus / bacteria and helps a lot with nitrogen deficiency in this lineup.

Thank you very much for sharing some of that knowledge with me @john martin . I will be looking into that ONFrass

 

[Seamaiden]

There is no such thing as a "Cal Mag" deficiency. I can totally vouch for frass! I have my own source because I keep mealworms for my chicky birds. The frass is pretty easy to sift off.

 

[john martin]

You are obviously very knowledgeable on this topic Seamaiden, but I have first-hand experienced upping Cal/Mag fixing my plants when they have this issue on one or more occasion, so there is something to it...

 

[Seamaiden]

I'm sure there is, but what is it? Because there are various forms of "Cal-Mag" (I'm referring to the base mixes, EG something like say... BioLink 6$ Ca, which is based on CaCO3, or another that's based on CaNO3. Same with Mg sources, yes?), that must also play a role. And then there's the whole lock-out/playing well thing. Have you tried playing around with various forms of magnesium, separating your applications of Ca and Mg, again in various forms? When I did that I saw very clearly what the differences and subsequent effects are. :)

 

[Funk Monk]

I'm sure there is, but what is it? Because there are various forms of "Cal-Mag" (I'm referring to the base mixes, EG something like say... BioLink 6$ Ca, which is based on CaCO3, or another that's based on CaNO3. Same with Mg sources, yes?), that must also play a role. And then there's the whole lock-out/playing well thing. Have you tried playing around with various forms of magnesium, separating your applications of Ca and Mg, again in various forms? When I did that I saw very clearly what the differences and subsequent effects are. :)

I agree with this statement. When messing around I decided to separate the Cal and Mag and found better results. When amending my soil I use crushed Oyster shells and never have seen a deficiency that I always thought was a Cal/Mag problem. Funk on

 

[Seamaiden]

That was supposed to be BioLink 6% Ca, not 6$ Ca! :)

 

[QuantumGen]

Any input in this yall?

It's definitely a pH problem. Initially I thought, clearly it's an immobile nutrient, probably iron(because iron and zinc seem to be the most commonly deficient micros) because of the pH. THEN i thought wait, sulfer is immobile too and will become deficient in higher pH, and is more of a secondary macro nute. Were I you my friend, I'd lower my pH. A Lil mag sulfate an seaweed wouldn't hurt after a good flush and pH adjustment(5.7-6). Just saying.

 

[Billyboat]

That was supposed to be BioLink 6% Ca, not 6$ Ca! :)

Do they still sell the Biolink 6%?

 

[Seamaiden]

I believe it's still available, but I haven't looked for it in over a year. I initially found it at Peaceful Valley.

Here are my Google hits for it.