shawnskush
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i wouldnt top or fully supercrop in flower but you can bend and tie down branches that are getting to tall to keep an even canopy and reduce stretch.
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Texas Kid
Some guy with a light
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Very nice everything is lookin super happy...
MischiefGrows
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I'm not sure. We were just going by what a friend had recommended. After looking at coco pH charts, I suppose it seemed best to keep it in the 5.8-6.0 range because of availability of phosphorous, calcium, and magnesium. I am very new to this though and would love to hear your take on it.Would it be better to start your ph at at higher level like 6.2-6.3 and then decrease to a 5.8-5.9 as flowering progresses for the higher potassium, phosphorus, and potash intake levels? I've always done the opposite of what your doing, I always drift down in flower and drift up in veg...5.8-5.7 starts lockin out some of the flower specific minerals IMO
T
tipper619sd
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looking great and that mom is very well taking care of nice work
MischiefGrows
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First day of 12/12 started today. They were in complete darkness for 30 hours prior to turning to lights back on @ 12/12 cycle. We had to put another 8" fan up and cut a hole in the wall for exhaust to cool all four lights. Temps have been somewhat inconsistent. The night before we turned the lights out, we did a test run with all 4 lights on to monitor temps and it seemed the room kept constant at 74 for the whole night and following morning. Today, however, i am finding different readings in different areas of the room, ranging from 76-84.
I could also cut another hole in the wall and run air through the lights from an outside source, but i was hoping not to have to do this. Less holes in the wall is best- but i'm not afraid to do it. And then I could put up another 8" fan attached to a carbon filter to exhaust the room.
Aside from that, maybe make a larger hole for my intake. Still trying to figure out ventilation- I like it though, its challenging.
I could also cut another hole in the wall and run air through the lights from an outside source, but i was hoping not to have to do this. Less holes in the wall is best- but i'm not afraid to do it. And then I could put up another 8" fan attached to a carbon filter to exhaust the room.
Aside from that, maybe make a larger hole for my intake. Still trying to figure out ventilation- I like it though, its challenging.
Dad
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awesome set up :)
MischiefGrows
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Thanks. Like i said, we are still under construction raising the roof and adjusting different things since we just added more lights and are still figuring out the best efficiency for cooling our room.awesome set up :)
We would like to make it through our first harvest before we have to buy an a/c. We'll see.
I already want to re-do the room completely different. We want to put in flood tables, but there would be no room to walk and that would make less vertical space- especially before we took the panda paper off the roof. It's getting a little too crowded in there already.
However, we will probably try to make it through a few runs like this before we can make all of the changes we want.
Here is a diagram of the air flow in the room.
Dad
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looks good, i need to make sumthing like that in my garage.
MischiefGrows
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Day 2 of flowering:
All of the girls except for the Cherry Pies seem to be stretching quite a bit, especially the plat. gorillas.
We're seeing some deficiencies in all of our girls. New growth appears lime green and is spreading from the top of the plant down. The liming/yellowing starts from the palm or petiole of the leaf and spreads its way out to the tips of the leaves. These leaves look blotchy and feel leathery/rubbery. We believe that this must be a immobile nutrient- if it was a mobile nutrient, the yellowing would start at the bottom of the plant and move up because mobile nutrients draw nutrients from older leaves to nourish the newer growth, correct?
We believe that possibly we are either underfeeding, or we have toxic salt build up- we haven't flushed the coco in a while.
Another deficiency we believe is magnesium- red, rust color spots in the middle of the leaves.
All of the girls except for the Cherry Pies seem to be stretching quite a bit, especially the plat. gorillas.
We're seeing some deficiencies in all of our girls. New growth appears lime green and is spreading from the top of the plant down. The liming/yellowing starts from the palm or petiole of the leaf and spreads its way out to the tips of the leaves. These leaves look blotchy and feel leathery/rubbery. We believe that this must be a immobile nutrient- if it was a mobile nutrient, the yellowing would start at the bottom of the plant and move up because mobile nutrients draw nutrients from older leaves to nourish the newer growth, correct?
We believe that possibly we are either underfeeding, or we have toxic salt build up- we haven't flushed the coco in a while.
Another deficiency we believe is magnesium- red, rust color spots in the middle of the leaves.
B
Burned Haze
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Foliar spray the plant that looks cal/mag def with some calmag(5ml) and some wetting agent . I even tea mix it with a good water soluble brand of liquid kelp(10ml) I use xtreme serene & ancient amber (5-10ml) it's a nitrogen supplement . Make sure to mix it thoroughly and get a good wetting agent ( I use humboldt sticky ) ph correct at 6-6.5
If it was me I would spray a few and see how it goes, I've done it multiple times and it show a huge difference for me and I use it compare to just relying on root drenching ur medium .
Spray 30-45 minutes before lights or right after.now have u been in ur grow rooms when the lights are off? Cause any light including little led indicater lights can disrupt ur cycles and cause stress.
If it was me I would spray a few and see how it goes, I've done it multiple times and it show a huge difference for me and I use it compare to just relying on root drenching ur medium .
Spray 30-45 minutes before lights or right after.now have u been in ur grow rooms when the lights are off? Cause any light including little led indicater lights can disrupt ur cycles and cause stress.
MischiefGrows
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I will try the foliar feed. I have been intending to try some foliar feeds but haven't had time to read about it much.Foliar spray the plant that looks cal/mag def with some calmag(5ml) and some wetting agent . I even tea mix it with a good water soluble brand of liquid kelp(10ml) I use xtreme serene & ancient amber (5-10ml) it's a nitrogen supplement . Make sure to mix it thoroughly and get a good wetting agent ( I use humboldt sticky ) ph correct at 6-6.5
If it was me I would spray a few and see how it goes, I've done it multiple times and it show a huge difference for me and I use it compare to just relying on root drenching ur medium .
Spray 30-45 minutes before lights or right after.now have u been in ur grow rooms when the lights are off? Cause any light including little led indicater lights can disrupt ur cycles and cause stress.
No light leaks. We've checked for light leaks/indicator lights several times. Plus, they were starting to show these deficiencies about a week ago and today is only day 2 of flowering.
MischiefGrows
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Our pH is fine. 5.9 going in= 5.9 coming out. Same with PPM's (currently around 900)
T
tipper619sd
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looking great man and i think u got the deficiency down for sure.
MischiefGrows
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We woke up this morning and the temp. monitor said that it was 53 degrees in the grow room with the lights off. I quickly turned the central heat on and have been keeping it 60-65 since then, but i'm kind of lost as to how to avoid this problem from here on out. Lights off are from 4 am-4 pm, so i am asleep when the lights turn off and wouldn't be able to turn the heat on until i wake up at 8 or 9 (4 or 5 hours that i wouldn't be able to monitor these low temps. Any suggestions?
shawnskush
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can you program the heat to turn on at a certain time? are you using a dehumidifier? i have my dehuey turn on at lights off and it keeps my ladies nice and warm.
MischiefGrows
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I don't believe so. I just turned on the central heat for the whole house. We don't have a heater for the grow room- haven't needed it until now. I suppose i could try putting the exhaust fans on timers so that they aren't on 100% the whole time the lights are off.. Previously, we had the exhaust blowing back into our house to heat the rest of the house during veg, but with 4 lights now, we had to vent outside.can you program the heat to turn on at a certain time? are you using a dehumidifier? i have my dehuey turn on at lights off and it keeps my ladies nice and warm.
I have a dehumidifier but currently humidity with lights off is only 35% without the dehumidifier on.
shawnskush
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if you set the dehuey for 60% and turn it on it will still produce heat without really dropping rh at least in my setup perhaps adding a small humidifier and turning on the dehuey could give you the balance you need and get ya a lil closer to 50% rh while helping w temps just a thought havent done this myself but have seen it on here
MischiefGrows
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Thanks. Makes sense. We'll give it a try.if you set the dehuey for 60% and turn it on it will still produce heat without really dropping rh at least in my setup perhaps adding a small humidifier and turning on the dehuey could give you the balance you need and get ya a lil closer to 50% rh while helping w temps just a thought havent done this myself but have seen it on here
MischiefGrows
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I was also thinking that i could put both of my 8" fans on separate timers so that i could have them both running during lights on, and when lights go out, either only have one on the whole time, or inter change the two fans every 5, 10, 15 minutes or what not so that only one is on at a time. That way, I would only have 50% of my exhaust working while the lights are off.
shawnskush
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I was also thinking that i could put both of my 8" fans on separate timers so that i could have them both running during lights on, and when lights go out, either only have one on the whole time, or inter change the two fans every 5, 10, 15 minutes or what not so that only one is on at a time. That way, I would only have 50% of my exhaust working while the lights are off.
i definitely would they really dont need much air exchange with lights out.
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