Coco Trees

JACKMAYOFFER · Dec 16, 2013

Did you take cuttings of each pheno and then run the cuttings or just popped the seed and flowered the original seed stock..? The tall lanky WIFI are usually the low yielders... the ones that grow more bushy like the White but stretch 2 x and are OG dominate are the special ones... I would say 65 to 75% have been White dominate and 25% OG and 10% just freaks of nature good...

CelticEBE · Dec 16, 2013

JACKMAYOFFER said:
Did you take cuttings of each pheno and then run the cuttings or just popped the seed and flowered the original seed stock..? The tall lanky WIFI are usually the low yielders... the ones that grow more bushy like the White but stretch 2 x and are OG dominate are the special ones... I would say 65 to 75% have been White dominate and 25% OG and 10% just freaks of nature good...

I have a tall lanky one that KILLS it. I don't run her as much anymore because I have gone back to Vertical lighting, but when I set up another Horizontal room she is my main squeeze. My short stocky super slow vegger WiFi is what I'm running in my Vert rooms.....and I'm pleased as punch with how she performs as well.

deacon1503 · May 7, 2014

way past due for an update...

JACKMAYOFFER said:
Did you take cuttings of each pheno and then run the cuttings or just popped the seed and flowered the original seed stock..? The tall lanky WIFI are usually the low yielders... the ones that grow more bushy like the White but stretch 2 x and are OG dominate are the special ones... I would say 65 to 75% have been White dominate and 25% OG and 10% just freaks of nature good...

What up Jack? these 10 were popped from a full pack of 11 (100% germ rate) and tallest 10 were flowered. Cuts were take off each pheno at flip and labeled. i tried to mimic your routine as much as possible.

I agree on the 3 phenos, a 2 tall and lanky OG doms, 2 short a single super short White doms, and 5 of a 4th that was the best of the bunch. tested out at 25.5% total and every patient loves it. great strain. a

CelticEBE said:
I have a tall lanky one that KILLS it. I don't run her as much anymore because I have gone back to Vertical lighting, but when I set up another Horizontal room she is my main squeeze. My short stocky super slow vegger WiFi is what I'm running in my Vert rooms.....and I'm pleased as punch with how she performs as well.

I also only run the shorter pheno in my vert room. The tall cut when to a friends flat garden.

deacon1503 · May 7, 2014

this was 3 Wifi, 3 New York Chunk, and 4 Vanilla Kush. i left the top of a VK for size reference. 7 gal smarties that got topped at the right time. I ran Fasilitor for the first half and AgSil for the second half of flower. Also tried a 1 liter of the mbferts vitamin/hormone booster. first time taking the lights up to the ceiling at flip, i think it turned out good. and no heat issues. and chunky colas.

deacon1503 · May 7, 2014

samino said:
Nice way to improve your UC ! But what im wondering is if you are recirculating the run off in this system?

This is a drain to waste setup.

bstilwell1988 said:
wow so awesome bro. very inspiring. how was the buddah tahoe btw. would u grow it again?

Buddha Tahoe killed it. Great yield and great smoke.

gone rayson · May 15, 2014

deacon1503 said:
this was 3 Wifi, 3 New York Chunk, and 4 Vanilla Kush. i left the top of a VK for size reference. 7 gal smarties that got topped at the right time. I ran Fasilitor for the first half and AgSil for the second half of flower. Also tried a 1 liter of the mbferts vitamin/hormone booster. first time taking the lights up to the ceiling at flip, i think it turned out good. and no heat issues. and chunky colas.

View attachment 403217 View attachment 403218 View attachment 403219 View attachment 403220 View attachment 403221 View attachment 403222 View attachment 403223 View attachment 403224 View attachment 403225

How do you like or dislike the MBFERTS

deacon1503 said:
this was 3 Wifi, 3 New York Chunk, and 4 Vanilla Kush. i left the top of a VK for size reference. 7 gal smarties that got topped at the right time. I ran Fasilitor for the first half and AgSil for the second half of flower. Also tried a 1 liter of the mbferts vitamin/hormone booster. first time taking the lights up to the ceiling at flip, i think it turned out good. and no heat issues. and chunky colas.

View attachment 403217 View attachment 403218 View attachment 403219 View attachment 403220 View attachment 403221 View attachment 403222 View attachment 403223 View attachment 403224 View attachment 403225

Did you like the MBFERTS booster?

gone rayson · May 15, 2014

Sorry, double post.

deacon1503 · May 15, 2014

gone rayson said:
How do you like or dislike the MBFERTS

Did you like the MBFERTS booster?

I can't really give it a fair review since it was ran with the exact products it competes with. I also had the less concentrated mix but did notice that whatever the particles that are suspended in it fell out and ended up like sand in the bottom of my rez. Maybe that isn't the case with the more concentrated version?

gone rayson · May 15, 2014

deacon1503 said:
I can't really give it a fair review since it was ran with the exact products it competes with. I also had the less concentrated mix but did notice that whatever the particles that are suspended in it fell out and ended up like sand in the bottom of my rez. Maybe that isn't the case with the more concentrated version?

Thanks for the reply and info. Mad grow you got there. Cant wait for you to start another one

LilSleepy · May 19, 2014

Dig your style bro looked like a nice harvey. Hope you keep updating. Subd

gettogro · Jun 9, 2014

Great thread, I think you just convinced me to convert a couple of my UC rooms. I need to be more consistent. I was going to try out the new Growstone gf-3 coco mix for my setup.

When my Uc systems go good they are great 3#+ plants, but I always have at least 1 room that goes to crap.

Do you think I could match the UC's 3 lb plants with a 20 gallon container on 72" centers?

Thanks for all the great info.

deacon1503 · Jun 9, 2014

gettogro said:
Great thread, I think you just convinced me to convert a couple of my UC rooms. I need to be more consistent. I was going to try out the new Growstone gf-3 coco mix for my setup.

When my Uc systems go good they are great 3#+ plants, but I always have at least 1 room that goes to crap.

Do you think I could match the UC's 3 lb plants with a 20 gallon container on 72" centers?

Thanks for all the great info.

It's tough to say, Id like to say yes, but I'd think it'd be with a decent veg time. coco mix in smart pots doesn't have that robust growth that the UC has during early flower resulting in those bigger yields, if that make sense? The pace of growth is slower, although I think with the way u grow (u know ur shit), that wouldn't be a draw back for very long and ud dial it in quick. No more pythium risk or leaks or circ or air pump issues though. Ud have to veg with verts I think to maximize ur flower rooms and train them hard concentrating on super cropping to establish the Xmas tree structure in an attempt to maintain yield but still I think ull be giving up a solid 1/2 lb per plant if u switched. I still haven't seen a level of growth and overall plant vitality as I have in a UC done right. However even in this room if I had all 1k's with fresh bulbs and back into 10g, trained properly, 2lb's easy with the right strain. Reliability is the thing here, I haven't lost a plant since I switched.

I made the switch knowing this fact but understood that reliability and consistency is better in the long run. Helped lower my stress level too.

However. I know of grows in Oregon , 50 plants in 20g, under 50 gavita 1k's, triple level trellised, 6 wk veg, 150 lb rips.

The growstone mix would be a great starting point. I use the term "organic hydro" because it's still coco based and thus treated as hydro but allows for teas and other organics to promote terp development that a traditional hydro grown plant wouldn't be exposed to. I feed em Heavy pretty hard (including Prime) but keep up on the teas with Caps bennies, liquid fish, liquid kelp, insect frass, ewc, extra molasses, etc to max out the smells and tastes all of which can't work in RDWC. At least ime. Hope this helped some.

Likewise on your thread, it's always a good read.

DankGanja · Jun 9, 2014

inspiring thread bro!! dreamin of trees like yours.. two thumbs up! :)

gettogro · Jun 10, 2014

Well I think I am going to pull the trigger, going to do a similar setup to what you got going with the Hot water drip pans. After a few nights of looking at 10 pound outdoor plants in 200+ gallon soil grows, thinking that 3 lb plants can be done in coco.
I can give 10 to 12 weeks veg, just have to cut clones sooner than usual. Picked up some rooted clones to get the ball rolling. Ill have 14kw to blast 6 plants with.. lol

Have a couple more questions if you dont mind..

How would you recommend transplanting and up sizing pots?
Was thinking something like this:
2 inch rockwool rooted clone to 1 gallon smartpot to 5 gallon smartpot to 20 gallon white r00t trapper II. Ill have 10-12 weeks max to get them big enough.

For the last repot I would like to only have 2 weeks veg in the main flower rooms so I can keep on a 10 week harvest schedule for 5 chops a year.
Is 2 weeks enough for the plants to acclimate to the final pot size?

You mentioned that you were having drainage problems with the pots laying directly on the drip pans? Do you think a 1/4 inch coco mat between the pot and the drip pan would solve this, Or do you recommend raising them up off the pan with some steel grate or something? Im sure there are a bunch of ways to get better drainage, maybe a bed of river rocks or hydroton even...

My current grow went to shit before they even went into the main flower room. The veg system got root rot So I had to disinfect the plants and chop off all there roots, Now just waiting to see if they recover. I have some time to rethink my whole strategy..

Dont mean to Hijack too much, Ill get a new thread started when I make the switch. Im sure Ill be looking for some help over there..
thanks
g

deacon1503 · Jun 12, 2014

gettogro said:
Well I think I am going to pull the trigger, going to do a similar setup to what you got going with the Hot water drip pans. After a few nights of looking at 10 pound outdoor plants in 200+ gallon soil grows, thinking that 3 lb plants can be done in coco.
I can give 10 to 12 weeks veg, just have to cut clones sooner than usual. Picked up some rooted clones to get the ball rolling. Ill have 14kw to blast 6 plants with.. lol

Have a couple more questions if you dont mind..

How would you recommend transplanting and up sizing pots?
Was thinking something like this:
2 inch rockwool rooted clone to 1 gallon smartpot to 5 gallon smartpot to 20 gallon white r00t trapper II. Ill have 10-12 weeks max to get them big enough.

For the last repot I would like to only have 2 weeks veg in the main flower rooms so I can keep on a 10 week harvest schedule for 5 chops a year.
Is 2 weeks enough for the plants to acclimate to the final pot size?

You mentioned that you were having drainage problems with the pots laying directly on the drip pans? Do you think a 1/4 inch coco mat between the pot and the drip pan would solve this, Or do you recommend raising them up off the pan with some steel grate or something? Im sure there are a bunch of ways to get better drainage, maybe a bed of river rocks or hydroton even...

My current grow went to shit before they even went into the main flower room. The veg system got root rot So I had to disinfect the plants and chop off all there roots, Now just waiting to see if they recover. I have some time to rethink my whole strategy..

Dont mean to Hijack too much, Ill get a new thread started when I make the switch. Im sure Ill be looking for some help over there..
thanks
g

Glad to help.

When up-potting you can't go from smarty to smarty, not ime at least. Hard pot then finally to smarty. The way the felt works with the roots tips, when u de-pot a smarty, u destroy the root tips as you tear the pot away ending up in crazy P deficiencies. It's also beneficial to get the roots circling in the hard pot to promote a faster transplant into the smarty. For instance I veg in 1 gal nursery pot then transplant into my 7 gal smarties. I think it's better to build up the tap roots in veg and the feeders in flower. I'd say start at 4-6 weeks for veg in a hard pot, then transplant into your final smarty. 2 weeks should be plenty for them to acclimate to the room. I go by when u see root tips through the felt, then she should be ready. In veg push the calmag and silica too.

The issues I was having with the drain pans was that they didn't completely drain so I had standing water in the room which has multiple drawbacks (bugs, mold, humidity). The pans are drained through the side wall instead of through a bottom center drain which would have been ideal so there was always a 1\4" of nute in the pans.

With DTW it's crucial that the pot can fully drain. Whether it's sitting on a coco mat or some hydroton, all that matters is that she can drain and not ever continually sit in water/nute, that's when problems arise. I solved it with setting the plants on a metal grate and then onto 3" sticks of PVC in the drain pans.

That's tough going on the veg setup, that is sometimes the Achilles heal of a hydro grow op.

soserthc1 · Jun 12, 2014

Very nice thread , enjoyed it

Funkadelic · Jul 15, 2014

Deacon - *thank you*... on a site full of masters you have your own special spot. Ive seen my share, in person as well as online, and you are a high roller.
Mad props, sir.

I'm trying to emulate you, starting a bit simpler with food (Lucas formula for now), but otherwise trying to follow in your rather grand footsteps.

My room is a giant cube with no floor drain, and no basement. Any suggestions on adapting your (mighty) system to this kind of space?
Verts already hanging, 8k. Threw a dirt round but now on chowmix and my girls are laughing and happy.

Just trying to figure out drain solution - a sump pump can work, just need to elevate everything enough to put in a waste rez to pump out.... thoughts?

deacon1503 · Jul 15, 2014

Funkadelic said:
Deacon - *thank you*... on a site full of masters you have your own special spot. Ive seen my share, in person as well as online, and you are a high roller.
Mad props, sir.

I'm trying to emulate you, starting a bit simpler with food (Lucas formula for now), but otherwise trying to follow in your rather grand footsteps.

My room is a giant cube with no floor drain, and no basement. Any suggestions on adapting your (mighty) system to this kind of space?
Verts already hanging, 8k. Threw a dirt round but now on chowmix and my girls are laughing and happy.

Just trying to figure out drain solution - a sump pump can work, just need to elevate everything enough to put in a waste rez to pump out.... thoughts?

Thanks for the nice words. I try to pay forward the info I've learned on this site and always feel obligated to give back. I'm happy to help.

Using a sump to move the runoff is no problem. With no floor drain, a sump pump can still be utilized but a check valve must be used on the discharge when going vertical and keep at least 3/4 - 1 inch. Next the sump needs be to turned on with a float switch. Some pumps have this feature built in, "automatic pumps" like the Wayne eeaup250 or the flotec fpos1775a. Or use a stand alone float switch like the "basement watchdog" at Home Depot with a normal sump, it works great. Just plug in the sump and rig up the float in the drain bucket.

Funkadelic · Jul 15, 2014

deacon1503 said:
Using a sump to move the runoff is no problem. With no floor drain, a sump pump can still be utilized but a check valve must be used on the discharge when going vertical and keep at least 3/4 - 1 inch. Next the sump needs be to turned on with a float switch. Some pumps have this feature built in, "automatic pumps" like the Wayne eeaup250 or the flotec fpos1775a. Or use a stand alone float switch like the "basement watchdog" at Home Depot with a normal sump, it works great. Just plug in the sump and rig up the float in the drain bucket.

Thank you for the prompt reply - I'm a big fan of ball check valves from Hayward Supply - a saltwater aquarium servicing company owner taught me that trick. Zero failure, ever; gravity pulls the ball back down into the cup and its a cork.

I'm also considering what drain bucket to use (pvc pipe to ____?), and I guess how high to make the holes. My thought on your first room in this thread is if you would have made your bulkhead/drain holes from the bottom of your water-heater pans, you wouldn't have had issues with standing water perhaps.

I'm thinking of going all 7g Root-Trapper (series 3, I think - the new ones have netting bottoms fuck yeah) and getting the same drain buckets, tomato cages, and doing pvc like you.
Pvc is easy.

I just need to figure out how/where/what to drain *to* (kiddie pool?), and can happily run sump pump manually for now (though I see the light on float valves, for sure).... just wanting to get plumbing and drain tub figured out first.... I like your use of pvc feet under your bags inside buckets - clever. You could attach them to eggcrate and make quick, easy, super cheap plastic tables that way too, though you obviously have it dialed in.

Funkadelic · Jul 15, 2014

Okay. Duh. Now I see how you do your drain bucket; its a bucket like all the rest of them. Nice.

"You've got a killer scene there, man." -Queens of the Stone Age

Seriously you stand on the shoulders of giants, but tower far above most. I'm no rookie, either.
I'm following your method to the "t" on everything, ASAP.

Coco Trees

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gone rayson

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gone rayson

LilSleepy

gettogro

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DankGanja

gettogro

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Funkadelic

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