Str8Dank
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Answer: Running cold air over the bulb inside the fixture will not reduce the lumen output of the lamp. That air is only cooling the air and the outer jacket (bulb) but it is not cooling the arc tube.
To cool the arc tube the air would have to be significantly cold (sub zero temperatures) and even if it were that cold the only real affect it would have on the lamp is it would take longer to warm up and get to full power.
You can run cool air over your grow lamps without any adverse affects.
I've just removed the entire equation from the game, 10% loss, 15% loss, Not Concerned, HVAC is King Imvho and ducting, heavy hoods, intake fans, exhaust fans, etc are unnecessary, Id rather have less equipment, more room, less work, cleaning glass sucks ass! Changing lamps on alot of hoods sucks ass!
The hinged ones are cool but still I dont like ducting them, or how much they weigh.
To each his own though that's just how I do it after trying them all from Life Light Spinners to XXXL Magnums and Melon Heads and everything in between. Ive settled in real nice with the 5 oz Adjust wings.
Less is More keeps ruling my world!
I asked about how to quantify the amount of cooling actually used in various setups
You can figure HID's for about 3-4 BTUs/watt. Magnetic ballasts convert more energy into heat, so it matters if you have the ballast inside or outside the op.
So, from there you could figure that, if you're using AC, the Energy Star ratings that are on huge yellow stickers all over the boxes are BTUs per watt hour.
If you're using air-cooled hoods/tubes as well, you can simply subtract those two numbers to see what you're not using in AC.
So like I said I'd ask eye hortilux and here is their response, as expected dude in that video is full of bs....
Answer: Running cold air over the bulb inside the fixture will not reduce the lumen output of the lamp. That air is only cooling the air and the outer jacket (bulb) but it is not cooling the arc tube.To cool the arc tube the air would have to be significantly cold (sub zero temperatures) and even if it were that cold the only real affect it would have on the lamp is it would take longer to warm up and get to full power.You can run cool air over your grow lamps without any adverse affects.
I have a chiller as opposed to AC, and I'm not yet sure how to quantify its output- no stickers. That said, I like your approach. It gives a good framework, and from there I can fill in the remaining blanks and start working some numbers.
You could try one of those Kill-o-Watt thingys, and monitor the power being drawn along with a water thermometer and a clock.
The specific heat of water is 1 calorie/gram, and 1 BTU is 252 calories.
Any meter that reads amps you can just convert to watts. Amps times voltage equals watts. For those that have a multimeter You do not have to buy a kilowatt. But kilowatts are definitely safer for unexperienced people.
can we get some glass in our reflectors that actually magnifies our spectrum's finally?? how hard can this be?
and maybe a built in filter to keep out the dust?? the technology has got to be here...
can we get some glass in our reflectors that actually magnifies our spectrum's finally?? how hard can this be?
and maybe a built in filter to keep out the dust?? the technology has got to be here...
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