Could Cold Res Change Cause Root Rot?

DapperDon · Jan 20, 2015

Also if you are using R/O water filtration, when was the last time you flushed/changed your membranes?

med man · Jan 23, 2015

plants are like people. especially woman. dont change a thing in your pattern, or fluctaute, or you will be in trouble fast.

stick to a uniform routine to get uniform plants/results

med-man

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

Ok so i hate to say it but it's back after using warmer water from a res.

The 4 plants were just put in the system (used a little light bleach spray and wiped down.... normally i run a bunch of bleach through the system but the plants that came out were all showing healthy....)

The 4 plants ppm is 300, ph is 6.3, high i know but i want em to do their thing in the swing and not mess with em too much since they already have this shock going on.

The 6 plants are at 6.4ph and 390ppm (500 scale) these are all in the 3week-4week range.

I'm using tap water, 30ppm and 7.2 ph

Is all this because i need an ro system and if so what one do i need? Or do i just need a dechlorinator....

I don't get why I'm having this prob right after every res change in veg... no issues at all that are present to me in flower.

Help please guys, it wasn't the cold water...

med man · Jan 23, 2015

hey slim

couple things you can do

- add h202 every 2 days (and res change day) med-man method

- start usuing bleach in the res once a week

- get a water chiller

- avoid any living culture at all costs. dead rezes are the lowest maintainance which equals most production

med-man

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

Also i just added am extra 3ml gallon uc roots i assume this will clear it up in 5-7 days per usual...but wtf... i don't see how I'm having this issue with uc roots since it always seems to fix the problem

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

I use uc roots by cultured solutions which is a sterilizer, i have a chiller but my basement floor is keeping the water like 66*.... even more frustrating because i thought the cold was supposed to slow it, but it comes on after 2-3days of a new res change in veg

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

So since I'm using uc roots that should eliminate the need for bleach/h2o2.... any other ideas? Like i saix i use tap city water but it comes out at 30ppm and flowering plants have no root issues...

med man · Jan 23, 2015

i would get an r/o then. you never know what thye feed us/our plants withh water tretments

med-man

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

That's what I'm leaning towards... any recommendations on what's the best ro system? I'm not looking to spend a ton because i don't think that's the issue but I'm willing to try it....

I would just think things would get better after a res change not worse.... every time!

med man · Jan 23, 2015

i use an evolution, but have massive tanks to fill

guys use u.v. as well to bust nasties too. i would use both in your shoes

prepare for the worst, hope for the best - med-man method

med-man

slimjimham · Jan 23, 2015

So i talked to general hydroponics (figure they know their shit and im using their calimagic)... couldnt get ahold of current culture right away...

They said to drain and go just plan water +uc roots to clear it.... then next time clean the fuck out of the system....

I was told this by cch2o also but i can't waste all those nutes at this time so i added a bunch more uc roots to the system as it is and this always works.

But heres my solution i think and I'm going to have to talk it over with current culture before i do it but what if i add an extra 1/4 cup per 10 gallons of h2o2 at res changes on top of everything else ... wouldn't this make it so there's no way i can get slime right off?

Let me know what you think

DapperDon · Jan 23, 2015

Stealth RO 100 with a membrane flush kit and some float valves and you should be good to go for the size system you have.

Papa · Jan 26, 2015

ro systems remove solids from your water . . . so your TDS will go down . . . . but will not kill anything that is alive in your water.
so, although it's great to use r/o water so that you can have better control of precisely what your TDS is made up of, it won't do anything to help your issue.
for that, you need to take med man's advice and add UV. UV will kill things that may/are alive in your water source. you've been accomplishing the same with bleach. it's why H2O2 is used as well.
showing up so early in your run is not a good thing . . . and not easy to see through to the end successfully.

slimjimham · Jan 26, 2015

I've always been able to correct it immediately with uc roots, just takes a bit for em to rebound.

I agree with the ro, I'm holding off on that. I think i just need to start with a higher concentration of uc roots at the beginning... interested in the uv light too.

med man · Jan 26, 2015

i find nutrient toxicity to be th root of all evils

pun intended :-)

med-man

FooDoo · Jan 28, 2015

Unfortunately, from experience, I can't agree with @Papa . I am in no way shape or form claiming he is not correct, however I had root rot with tap, and no root rot with same tap after ran thru a hydrologic 200 with upgraded kdf

med man · Jan 28, 2015

you guys are both right. it really depends on your source water

r/o will def remove sludge. but doesnt kill micro biology

med-man

FooDoo · Jan 28, 2015

Thanks @med man for putting into words what my first hand experience has shown.

@slimjimham Einstein said, "the definition of insanity, is doing the same thing over and over again, but expecting different results."

You use tap, it creates root rot, you KEEP dumping and refilling with TAP, *thinking you'll get a different result*. If Einstein was here to see you chasing your own tail, he would call you insane

slimjimham · Jan 28, 2015

What about using the pondmaster uv light to purify the water? As others said the ro wont remove pyth will it? And I'm somewhat convinced its in my systems not the water. No clone issue (aeroponic) and no issue in flower....

I ran live res's at the start and had am issue then, think it's lurking somewhere in the system like i said, I'll do a hardcore clean next change and see it it comes back with 3ml per gallon of uc roots... if it does I'll prob get the pondmaster uv filter and run water through that first.

DapperDon · Jan 28, 2015

slimjimham said:
What about using the pondmaster uv light to purify the water? As others said the ro wont remove pyth will it? And I'm somewhat convinced its in my systems not the water. No clone issue (aeroponic) and no issue in flower....

I ran live res's at the start and had am issue then, think it's lurking somewhere in the system like i said, I'll do a hardcore clean next change and see it it comes back with 3ml per gallon of uc roots... if it does I'll prob get the pondmaster uv filter and run water through that first.

You do not want to run a UV filter on your nutrient treated water as it will react with the minerals in a very bad way. The best way to successfully use a UV filter is right after your R/O into plain water. I keep my uv treated r/o water in a holding tank for 24 hours at 65 degrees with flooming and aeration before I add it to my plants reservoirs so that the residual chlorine from the city can degas and then I add back 1 mL of Clorox Bleach regular unscented / not splash guard for every 50 gallons. My theory is to treat the water and eliminate any pathogens before they even enter the system.

Could Cold Res Change Cause Root Rot?

Could Cold Res Change Cause Root Rot?

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Could Cold Res Change Cause Root Rot?

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