Buzzzz
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I found a very mild nutrient solution made a world of differenceAnywho, update on the cloner. Put in high flow 360 sprayers. Also drilled holes for about 6 more heads. Hoping it helps with rooting times and strike rates.View attachment 1270562
Have you rechecked your PH after 24 hours? I have and was shocked! Prior to ever using it, I did all kinds of testing. The PH the temp after 24 hours of running etc. My well runs from 7.2 to 8.9 at times. First round I dropped the PH to 6.5 after 24 hours retested and it was 8.2! My old method was 5.9. With that said I decided to just run it straight out of the well.I use tap from a well, so no chlorine. It is 200 ppm and 8 ph. I usually but not always use ph down to get it to 7. Also use clonex cloning solution, not a must either. Temp around 75 degrees. Always 100%. View attachment 1269415View attachment 1269416
Thank you for your voice of experience! Thats exactly why im on here, I wanna hear whats working for people.Have you rechecked your PH after 24 hours? I have and was shocked! Prior to ever using it, I did all kinds of testing. The PH the temp after 24 hours of running etc. My well runs from 7.2 to 8.9 at times. First round I dropped the PH to 6.5 after 24 hours retested and it was 8.2! My old method was 5.9. With that said I decided to just run it straight out of the well.
Surprisingly enough straight from the well, dipped in Clonex and nine days later roots galore.
That aligns with what the professional cloners say. Would you mind sharing with me what your rate of application is?? How often do you change your water and refresh the nutrients?I found a very mild nutrient solution made a world of difference
I ran it at 1/8 strength and it helped them strike quickly, I use gh 3 part. I just mix at mid strength then dilute it with water to the desired ppm. There is a fine line you will have to find the threshold for what you grow,if you use too much they won't strike and will green up,for me it was about 1/8 strength but i screwed up some to get there on previous attempts.That aligns with what the professional cloners say. Would you mind sharing with me what your rate of application is?? How often do you change your water and refresh the nutrients?
And I have started adding a mild bloom (Beastie Bloomz) to the res. About 1/4 to 1tsp per 10 gal. I dislike Foxfarm, but the Beastie was a good buy when taking the nutrients into account, at a 0%-50%-30% its super concentrated and will last me for a year or more.
Sounds like I need to break down and get me a 3-way pH/ppm/temp meter finallyI ran it at 1/8 strength and it helped them strike quickly, I use gh 3 part. I just mix at mid strength then dilute it with water to the desired ppm. There is a fine line you will have to find the threshold for what you grow,if you use too much they won't strike and will green up,for me it was about 1/8 strength but i screwed up some to get there on previous attempts.
No I never have, I didn’t even use any ph down this time.Have you rechecked your PH after 24 hours? I have and was shocked! Prior to ever using it, I did all kinds of testing. The PH the temp after 24 hours of running etc. My well runs from 7.2 to 8.9 at times. First round I dropped the PH to 6.5 after 24 hours retested and it was 8.2! My old method was 5.9. With that said I decided to just run it straight out of the well.
Surprisingly enough straight from the well, dipped in Clonex and nine days later roots galore.
Nutrient strength,temp,algae,root exchange/release ,medium ,bacteria,plants using nutrients,sometimes order of nutrient addition or combinations of,can all have an effect on PH and precipitation of the salts.Thank you for your voice of experience! Thats exactly why im on here, I wanna hear whats working for people.
Oh yes, pH was checked 4x a day until I got the hang of my water. I use city tap though. Low ppm, very low sulfur. My temp stays 73° maybe a degree of fluctuation down at night, but its 10 gallons of water, pH and temp stay extremely stable. My pH tends to fluctuate daily, sometimes jumping from 5.5 to 7.0 overnight, usually when I have added a mild bloom. This is caused by the aeration and the cuttings themselves are absorbing and giving off their individual small amounts of bicarbonates and acids as they absorb nutrients through their stems. So far, the slight raise in sulfur ppm has shown results. I have matched identically the processes and tips professionals use. The only differences is the cuttings themselves, and the composition of my water. I got some wettable sulfur to ammend a deficiency in my potted plants and veggies, then had an epiphany about how some people use plain tap or well water with great results. And how some cant get rid of orange slime no matter how much bleach they use. I realized treatment processes can vary immensely across states and so does mineral composition. Its you folks that say you have great results from well water that made me realize its probably not the chlorine levels, but more likely the sulfur levels that make a difference. Well water is almost always high in sulfur, anywhere in the country and even world. Sulfur is also bacteriostatic and fungicidal, which can account for the high success rate from well water.
I really appreciate the advice and voicces of personal experience!! Until I get 99-100% success rate, ill be digging into every nuance of the processkeep an eye out for a “sucess” post! These are plants we are talking about, and I always succeed in the end when it comes to my quiet children
Of course. And usually the most recent of those would be the one you look to as the culprit of a sudden pH swing. I was just mentioning that an overnight pH shift within a controlled environment, is generally caused by biological activity separate from human intervention. Your mention of the microbiome is a very good point.Nutrient strength,temp,algae,root exchange/release ,medium ,bacteria,plants using nutrients,sometimes order of nutrient addition or combinations of,can all have an effect on PH and precipitation of the salts.
Oh boyFunny story time!
When we purchased our house the previous owners were renting a water softener. To us this wasn't a smart move since you can buy one for $300 USD. So the wife and I figured out usage plus some for guests and purchased a new one straight out.
Me being the man I am, called to cancel the rental gear. They came and disconnected everything and took their equipment with em.
I then started to install our new softener. To my amazement it went without a hitch! This was great news for a new DIY homeowner guy.
It wasn't until six months had past when my wife started asking why our shower keeps turning orange. I told her I don't know, the water tastes fine, feels fine when washing...
My next day off I went to the lower level to look at the system. The salt level wasn't reducing...Sure enough my wife was right, something is wrong here.
I followed all my plumbing back to the intake valve and realized the water was bypassing the softener because the intake was closed for installation....Lol.
I straight forgot to open it back up after the install. The great thing is that without a softener out water tastes great and I didn't notice anything. The downside was our shower was turning orange on a weekly basis.
Point being, sometimes instructions need to be read thoroughly....Lol. It clearly stated at the end to disengage the intake..
I just use shop lights for clones,soft flourescent until they root then I put them under a a 4 bank flouro,before hid and led people grew the entire cycle under them.Oh boyyeah. Im coming to the conclusion, after numerous forum spirals about aerocloners, that there is a very particular point at which it is ideal to take aerocloner-ready clones. So I think the cuttings I have are going through an extensive growth process resulting in it taking longer to strike and me having to keep up on more water changes and foliar feedings. So far ive gotten great advice, built a cloner, and a veg light, learned a bunch about all kinds of peripheral subjects. Even with the frustrations its a fun ride attached some photos of my light fixture. Made it with a bathroom vanity bar I got from the ReStore for $2, a 14” piece of 4 x 1/2 board, and a grounded extension cord. With four 3000k 100 watt equivalent LED flood bulbs, im getting 102,000-116,000 Lux at canopy level I learned 3000k-4000k is ideal spectrum for veg and even flower as it has high red and moderate blue spectrum. At $20 for a 4 pack, cheapest grow light ever. I thought you might appreciate the DIY nature of the lamp is all
The exposed wire is a ground that I connected at another point, NOT an exposed live wire!
First may I take a minute to gush over those beautiful ladies!?I just use shop lights for clones,soft flourescent until they root then I put them under a a 4 bank flouro,before hid and led people grew the entire cycle under them.
Btw, some more questions popped up. When do you take the cuttings in relation to switching to bloom? Do you limit nitrogen before taking cuttings and for how long? Do you flush the mother for three days before taking clones? Do you feed the mother organic, all natural, conventional or a combo? Do you treat the mother for 3 days up to two weeks beforehand with fulvic and seaweed foliar?
Did you mention this because you think it boosts root development?My veg room is co2 enriched.
You never feed your mothers more than 200ppm and you don't have any visible deficiencies?My mother plants get fed foliage pro and well water, 200 ppm......
I didn’t word that very well. My tap/well water is around 200 ppm by itself. I do use foliage pro fertilizer.Did you mention this because you think it boosts root development?
You never feed your mothers more than 200ppm and you don't have any visible deficiencies?
I honestly don’t know if co2 helps or not with root development. But yes I get nice roots now.Did you mention this because you think it boosts root development?
You never feed your mothers more than 200ppm and you don't have any visible deficiencies?
Beautiful roots!!!Tonight will be 10 days.View attachment 1271996
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