Maingrow85 said:

Only real difference in the good looking bush outdoors posted and the ones inside are different well water, and indoors got the touch of super soil. That's really it. No other difference..

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Some looks burned some either burned or potassium def. But since they are in the same soil, i am sure they are burned too. My advice is, don’t feed for a while and check the ph of your new water. Adjust it. Maybe even flush it with phed water. It is hard to get everything out of the soil, cation exchange and what not, but it will leach the salts and some of the other stuff.
Newbie advice by the way.

Ye

CrimsonEcho said:

I know it was a lapse in judgement dude but you know rain water could be acidic as fuck, hence, acid rains.

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Yea bud I'm aware. I continue to use it because of previous success with it grown the same way perfect success just outdoor.

I

CrimsonEcho said:

Some looks burned some either burned or potassium def. But since they are in the same soil, i am sure they are burned too. My advice is, don’t feed for a while and check the ph of your new water. Adjust it. Maybe even flush it with phed water. It is hard to get everything out of the soil, cation exchange and what not, but it will leach the salts and some of the other stuff.
Newbie advice by the way.

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I would have said some burn and some potassium def also from the looks.

I know plenty of people who use rain water. Not to concerned with acid rain. I would get my pH down near the 6.5 range

CaliRooted said:

I know plenty of people who use rain water. Not to concerned with acid rain. I would get my pH down near the 6.5 range

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I keep thinking the same thing.

You mentioned light burn. I don't think so. Light burn would be on the leaves closest to the light, and it's not oriented towards the tips. Tip curling is overwatering or nute burn. I see general nute burn, and what looks like mites to me. Could be thrips, but looks more like mites to me. Thrip damage is larger spots, and they are irregular, not round. Either way, Azamax or spinosad, used as directed, will clear that up. Three or four treatments, 3 or four days apart. Both are safe for humans and beneficial insects.

I don't fuck around with exotic organic soil mixes for this reason. There is no way to tell what you are out of balance on. Nor is there an easy, natural/organic/hippyfuckingdippy way to fix it. You should check your pH, and correct it if needed, in case you're locking out. Thats a pretty common problem. But then you'll be confronted with using either lime or sulpher compounds, not organic/hippyfuckingdippy. Frankly, I don't have a lot of patience with failed organic grows. You want to follow a religion, more power to you, but its not the easiest way to grow weed.

Personally, I make a neutral, balanced, well draining soil, spike it with cow manure compost every spring, and use Botanicare veg and bloom at 3/4 strength. Check out the top and bottom links in my sig for an indication of how that works. You have to be pretty good at organics to equal my lazy man's semi organic yield and quality.

The non organic way... Those are eight foot stakes.

Zinc or Iron deficiency likely. Bring the pH down.

OldManRiver said:

The non organic way... Those are eight foot stakes.

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Nice bushes sir. I have also have grown true ten foot trees the non organic way outdoors as well as indoor. You can grow dam near anything with shit like advanced nutes and hps. My fully orgainc grows have just been all outdoors with success.

Remember there is a learning curve with LED's and light distance's is the hardest

hawkman said:

Remember there is a learning curve with LED's and light distance's is the hardest

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The LEDs are definitely different getting used to. I solidly believe i had a salt build up from a little over orgainic mineral and ferts at the beginning and been slightly underwatering not wanting to leach much inside while using well water I'm sure was over 7ph and a little hard adding more minerals on top on what was already there and the last tea brewed i didn't cut and kinda had a little to much nitro in it causing the deep new green to come in while burning some tips with obvious nute burn causing p and k interruptions. I flushed about ten gallons through each for now and we won't talk about what the water looked like. I found a better pH range water not hard for the next watering then one tea specifically for microbes not nutes for the watering after and she should roll on. There were some big ass worms coming up during the rince so I know the soil is legit just need the life back on point. Looks good so far..

OldManRiver said:

The non organic way... Those are eight foot stakes.

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Maingrow85 said:

The LEDs are definitely different getting used to. I solidly believe i had a salt build up from a little over orgainic mineral and ferts at the beginning and been slightly underwatering not wanting to leach much inside while using well water I'm sure was over 7ph and a little hard adding more minerals on top on what was already there and the last tea brewed i didn't cut and kinda had a little to much nitro in it causing the deep new green to come in while burning some tips with obvious nute burn causing p and k interruptions. I flushed about ten gallons through each for now and we won't talk about what the water looked like. I found a better pH range water not hard for the next watering then one tea specifically for microbes not nutes for the watering after and she should roll on. There were some big ass worms coming up during the rince so I know the soil is legit just need the life back on point. Looks good so far..

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My issue was/is the height ! (top of plant to light source) - used to grow with CFL's Good to hear that you "fixed" it anyway ; example: the min height for a 300 watt led is 2.5 feet (28 inches)but now 28 inches veg and 18-20 inches flower ? thoughts - the manufactor say 48 inches germination/vegation and 36 inches flower -- too high