Did I use wrong meanwell driver for qb120s

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

So I have 4x qb120 v2s, I got a 120w 24v meanwell driver.

Bit I think I fucked up and needed to buy the 240w driver.

The ppfd chart HLG gives for their hlg65 (120w qb w 65w driver) I presume running softer at 30w per board I've cut my ppfd in half?(right 30w per board?)

I have 4 board in a row with minor gapping in my frame.. it's intention was to replace 8bar 4ft t5 light.

Do I need to swap up to the 240?

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
So I have 4x qb120 v2s, I got a 120w 24v meanwell driver.

Bit I think I fucked up and needed to buy the 240w driver.

The ppfd chart HLG gives for their hlg65 (120w qb w 65w driver) I presume running softer at 30w per board I've cut my ppfd in half?(right 30w per board?)

I have 4 board in a row with minor gapping in my frame.. it's intention was to replace 8bar 4ft t5 light.

Do I need to swap up to the 240?

What voltage does each board run at? How do you have them wired, series or parallel?

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
What voltage does each board run at? How do you have them wired, series or parallel?

Ran in parallel (does that mean 24v is split over the 4 boards like wattage?

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
Ran in parallel (does that mean 24v is split over the 4 boards like wattage?

No, it means that you would need enough amps to drive each of the boards. In parallel, volts remain the same and amps increase. I can get you pointed in the right direction but I need vdc and amps for each board as well as how many amps your driver can output. Can you post pictures of the numbers on the drivers and the specs of each of the boards?

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
No, it means that you would need enough amps to drive each of the boards. In parallel, volts remain the same and amps increase. I can get you pointed in the right direction but I need vdc and amps for each board as well as how many amps your driver can output. Can you post pictures of the numbers on the drivers and the specs of each of the boards?

QB120 V2 Quantum Boards

High Efficiency LED Light Engines. 120pcs Samsung LM301H LED per board

horticulturelightinggroup.com

70w max per board, 2800ma max per board

HLG-120H-24A

5A 22 ~ 27V Constant Current, Voltage LED

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
QB120 V2 Quantum Boards

High Efficiency LED Light Engines. 120pcs Samsung LM301H LED per board

horticulturelightinggroup.com

70w max per board, 2800ma max per board

HLG-120H-24A

5A 22 ~ 27V Constant Current, Voltage LED

Your driver is not capable of driving all 4 boards. It will only handle 2 boards in parallel.

What I see HLG is recommending to drive those 4 boards is " HLG-240H-C2100B." This is a constant current, variable (output) voltage driver that is designed to run all for boards in "Series." (Yours is a constant current, constant voltage driver)

Specs on your driver:

Specs on the HLG recommended driver:

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
Your driver is not capable of driving all 4 boards. It will only handle 2 boards in parallel.

What I see HLG is recommending to drive those 4 boards is " HLG-240H-C2100B." This is a constant current, variable (output) voltage driver that is designed to run all for boards in "Series." (Yours is a constant current, constant voltage driver)

What , it's running all 4 just fine

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
What , it's running all 4 just fine

If it is, then there is missing information ... The driver that you listed as the one you purchased is capable of running output at 24vdc only with a maximum output current (amps) of 5 amps. That would mean to run all 4 boards in parallel, you're driving each board at a max of 1250ma. It would likely light the boards but it doesn't allow for peak light output. (under-driven)

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
What , it's running all 4 just fine

This is already built, bit upon further reading I feel I made an error and lost ppfd upon doing so. If I wasted money of this driver eh oh well, I would prefer to keep in parallel especially considering I'm all built and running so I can just swap driver if Here it is before I hung it the other week.

MIGrampaUSA said:
If it is, then there is missing information ... The driver that you listed as the one you purchased is capable of running output at 24vdc only with a maximum output current (amps) of 5 amps. That would mean to run all 4 boards in parallel, you're driving each board at a max of 1250ma. It would likely light the boards but it doesn't allow for peak light output. (under-driven)

Fuck so I'm correct I've basically cut my output/ppfd in half so to speak right? Which would then explain why I feel like shits growing but not, and suggested canopy heights were so far off my new seeds stretched like a good inch or so before I lowered lights.

To keep parallel I would move to the 240/24v right?

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
This is already built, bit upon further reading I feel I made an error and lost ppfd upon doing so. If I wasted money of this driver eh oh well, I would prefer to keep in parallel especially considering I'm all built and running so I can just swap driver if Here it is before I hung it the other week.

Fuck so I'm correct I've basically cut my output/ppfd in half so to speak right? Which would then explain why I feel like shits growing but not, and suggested canopy heights were so far off my new seeds stretched like a good inch or so before I lowered lights.

To keep parallel I would move to the 240/24v right?

Disconnect 2 boards from the driver and you will be able to drive the 2 connected boards at about where you want them 2500ma. You will see the difference in brightness.

Solution:
Cheaper: add an additional driver just like the one you bought and wire each driver in 2 board parallels.

or

More expensive: Buy the more expensive driver if you wish to drive all 4 off of 1 (options exist to run those in series, parallel, or a combination of series and parallel wiring.)

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
If it is, then there is missing information ... The driver that you listed as the one you purchased is capable of running output at 24vdc only with a maximum output current (amps) of 5 amps. That would mean to run all 4 boards in parallel, you're driving each board at a max of 1250ma. It would likely light the boards but it doesn't allow for peak light output. (under-driven)

I think I got too excited only driving 120w vs 440w from the t5 (tho when I started researching I was oml

MIGrampaUSA said:
Disconnect 2 boards from the driver and you will be able to drive the 2 connected boards at about where you want them 2500ma. You will see the difference in brightness.

Solution:
Cheaper: add an additional driver just like the one you bought and wire each driver in 2 board parallels.

or

More expensive: Buy the more expensive driver if you wish to drive all 4 off of 1 (options exist to run those in series, parallel, or a combination of series and parallel wiring.)

I'm fairly sure I came across the 240 driver on trc electronics for same cost as the 120 driver, so I may go with that .. getting a 2nd driver I'll need to buy more wires wagos and another power cable. So I'm at or over cost of 240 I think

Anyone need a 120 lol. I guess maybe down the road I buy a single 120qb for seedlings and use the 120.. well fuck that's what I get, guy tried to tell me it would be smarter to run more efficient, bit didn't fully explain the consequences .. I'm gonna go pull 2 lights off to see the change..fml what a waste .. I doubt digikey would take a return as I clipped the tinned ends on driver

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
I think I got too excited only driving 120w vs 440w from the t5 (tho when I started researching I was oml

I'm fairly sure I came across the 240 driver on trc electronics for same cost as the 120 driver, so I may go with that .. getting a 2nd driver I'll need to buy more wires wagos and another power cable. So I'm at or over cost of 240 I think

Anyone need a 120 lol. I guess maybe down the road I buy a single 120qb for seedlings and use the 120.. well fuck that's what I get, guy tried to tell me it would be smarter to run more efficient, bit didn't fully explain the consequences .. I'm gonna go pull 2 lights off to see the change..fml what a waste .. I doubt digikey would take a return as I clipped the tinned ends on driver

The harder you drive your boards, the more heat there will be. Heat = shortened product life. The guy was not wrong in what he told you. He pointed you to the wrong driver for your application.

If the boards are identical to the HLG boards in your previous link, they are capable of being driven @ 2800ma but the cost would be excessive heat in the garden and excessive component wear. HLG recommended drivers are only driving these panels @ 2100ma.

I love meanwell drivers, but it can get confusing unless you fully understand what all the specs mean and do. If it were me? I would use a dim-able driver where you have the ability to fine-tune things exactly where you want it.

Personally? I would purchase an identical driver in it's dim-able version. Then you don't have to run all 4 boards at the same time. It allows more options in how you use your lights. For example, 4 boards would be over-kill in lights during seedling and much of the veg stages.

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
The harder you drive your boards, the more heat there will be. Heat = shortened product life. The guy was not wrong in what he told you. He pointed you to the wrong driver for your application.

If the boards are identical to the HLG boards in your previous link, they are capable of being driven @ 2800ma but the cost would be excessive heat in the garden and excessive component wear. HLG recommended drivers are only driving these panels @ 2100ma.

I love meanwell drivers, but it can get confusing unless you fully understand what all the specs mean and do. If it were me? I would use a dim-able driver where you have the ability to fine-tune things exactly where you want it.

I'm cool with the an A driver and using the pots to adjust, or is it really worth B and potentiometer. I got plenty of headroom to raise and lower and I have blocks I use to stager pot heights so I can leave light at same height when doing seedlings thru late veg
What's your suggestion.. the 240 24a? If only I remembered shit from HS electronics class.. wanna get my order in today. I disconnected 2 panels not over my seedlings (have a mango tree I throw under veg lights when I need to force new growth (pruning for a specific growth like cannabis) so she don't need light right now I'll put it back outside.
I would 100% say the 2 panels running alone are 2x as bright.. I'll have to keep an eye on the kids now so I don't burn.

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
I'm cool with the an A driver and using the pots to adjust, or is it really worth B and potentiometer. I got plenty of headroom to raise and lower and I have blocks I use to stager pot heights so I can leave light at same height when doing seedlings thru late veg
What's your suggestion.. the 240 24a? If only I remembered shit from HS electronics class.. wanna get my order in today. I disconnected 2 panels not over my seedlings (have a mango tree I throw under veg lights when I need to force new growth (pruning for a specific growth like cannabis) so she don't need light right now I'll put it back outside.
I would 100% say the 2 panels running alone are 2x as bright.. I'll have to keep an eye on the kids now so I don't burn.

Personally, I would add another identical driver to the one you purchased. It allows you to use 2 boards during early growth and veg when the plants don't take up much space or need all the light and then add the 2 additional boards as you move towards your flowering cycle.

I like dimmers. Pots work too. This would be more of a personal preference since everyone's grow area is different.

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
Personally, I would add another identical driver to the one you purchased. It allows you to use 2 boards during early growth and veg when the plants don't take up much space or need all the light and then add the 2 additional lights as you move towards your flowering cycle.

I like dimmers. Pots work too. This would be more of a personal preference since everyone's grow area is different.

Oh my bad these are only used for veg(4k boards) in a 2x4 area of spare closet. I usually have enough stuff going on between clones, autos now(gonna be planting 1 or 2 every like 6 weeks) and photos I typically use the full 3 to 4 ft of space.

Flowering happens in a 4x4 with a 680w full spectrum from growers choice

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
Oh my bad these are only used for veg(4k boards) in a 2x4 area of spare closet. I usually have enough stuff going on between clones, autos now(gonna be planting 1 or 2 every like 6 weeks) and photos I typically use the full 3 to 4 ft of space.

Flowering happens in a 4x4 with a 680w full spectrum from growers choice

Then the right answer (replace or simply add identical driver) really boils down to what you decide works best for you. That's assuming there's no difference in cost between 120w and 240w driver. My experience when I've looked is there's more than a 2x price difference between buying a 240w meanwell and a 480w meanwell, which was about a year ago ....

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
Then the right answer (replace or simply add identical driver) really boils down to what you decide works best for you. That's assuming there's no difference in cost between 120w and 240w driver. My experience when I've looked is there's more than a 2x price difference between buying a 240w meanwell and a 480w meanwell, which was about a year ago ....

Cool I appreciate the help. Digikey is easily the most expensive the more I look, bit they are doing 2 day ship.. bit yeah I think a 240 from them is 20$ more than what I paid for the 120 (90 vs 70, bit pretty sure I can find cheaper if I actually look)

Side questions. How's does ppfd add up so to speak when boards are ran in a row vs squares?
And I presume when I get all my boards at full power im blowing away my old t5? And saving money (nice to shave 500w off my power usage between both led lights vs my old t5 and 1000w hps)

MIGrampaUSA · Jan 24, 2021

Stoobeey said:
Cool I appreciate the help. Digikey is easily the most expensive the more I look, bit they are doing 2 day ship.. bit yeah I think a 240 from them is 20$ more than what I paid for the 120 (90 vs 70, bit pretty sure I can find cheaper if I actually look)

Side questions. How's does ppfd add up so to speak when boards are ran in a row vs squares?
And I presume when I get all my boards at full power im blowing away my old t5? And saving money (nice to shave 500w off my power usage between both led lights vs my old t5 and 1000w hps)

Honest answer on ppfd ... I've not done the math. What I have done is witness the results. I have four 240w quantum boards in my 5 x 5 along with 4' t-8 style leds I use specifically for vegging. Everything is on yo-yo's and separate plugs so it can be moved or removed from the lighting mix depending on stage of growth.

Stoobeey · Jan 24, 2021

MIGrampaUSA said:
Honest answer on ppfd ... I've not done the math. What I have done is witness the results. I have four 240w quantum boards in my 5 x 5 along with 4' t-8 style leds I use specifically for vegging. Everything is on yo-yo's and separate plugs so it can be moved or removed from the lighting mix depending on stage of growth.

I Pulled trigger on a 240w 24b for 62$ shipped ups ground 3-5 days, should ship tomorrow or Tues is suspect.
Then found a 6$ prewired dimmer on a led site free shipping.

Gunna throw the 120 on ebay next week for half off see if anyone takes it

RippedTorn · Jan 24, 2021

In my mind we need to know what impedance these drivers can operate at. Just like audio. Higher impedance = less power, too lower and you'll blow shit up.

Did I use wrong meanwell driver for qb120s

Did I use wrong meanwell driver for qb120s

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