Bib4tuna
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Awesome,I kinda figured that with God knows what they put in city water nowadays. But just wanted to be sure. Alotta times you get that well water with the sulphur smell but I think mine taste better than some city water so I figure if its good for me it's good for them. Thx for the info!I do the same, I have city water sadly, keep a couple 55gal drums with SERIOUS airstones in them and they just sit for a day or two before I tap Into them. If u have well water that's the best thing you could use. Def would t go wasting all that money in distilled or however u would go about it, esp when u have a goldmine already at the twist of it wrist. I'd kill for well water...
U know I'm not sure about the well water that has the sulphur/egg smell to it, it might have some drawbacks but I'd be lying to u ifni told u I knew for sure... I do know that my first dwc grow I spent months trucking buckets every week from my bosses house cuz he has well water, made for an interesting conversation as to wtf I was doing, but I just ended up saying F* it and told him, then he walked me I to his basement and right into his RETIRED UNDERGROUND grow roomAwesome,I kinda figured that with God knows what they put in city water nowadays. But just wanted to be sure. Alotta times you get that well water with the sulphur smell but I think mine taste better than some city water so I figure if its good for me it's good for them. Thx for the info!
Alkalinity is more important than ph when testing for compatablity. Ph is just a result of the mix of alkaline and acid makeup. But it only tells you the ratio of each in the mix in a sense. Not how much that's where ppm can kinda give you an idea.Will do. I was actually going to order a digital ph tester pr. As I said before Ive always grown outdoors & let nature do the job so this all new territory to me. That's why I appreciate all the good info.
Absolutely and you areU know something else that's kinda crazy, like I said before I ha e tap/city water where I am, and that whole ordeal trucking water, well anyways I swear I can tell when something's going in with the city water here too, like I do t know what the actual position publicly about putting additives Into the water, but I swear I can tell when it's being "treated" or whatever they actually do, sometimes the water really isn't that bad but there's enough of a variance in the ppm readings, like a dumass I kept thinking my meters were broken when I first came here. I won't even tell u howany hundreds of $ I spent it's stupid. I mean it's prob nothing anyone would ever notice UNLESS they are doing this type of thing.. lol anyways now I forgot what else I was gonna say it where I was going with that, this nectar collector works really well I guessAquaman if ya don't mind bro I'll prob keep ya on"speed dial" u seem like a very knowledgeable cat. With lots of very useful Info.
Alkalinity is more important than ph when testing for compatablity. Ph is just a result of the mix of alkaline and acid makeup. But it only tells you the ratio of each in the mix in a sense. Not how much that's where ppm can kinda give you an idea.
How do I explain it. This is not accurate it just to give you the overall perspective. Say neutral is 7 meaning equal parts. We have 0 acid 0 alkanine
Now 10ppm of acid drops the ph to 6.
Then add 20 ppm of alkalinity and the ph rises to 8.
Again not accurate but the total ppm is 30 and you likely need very little of either to change the ph.
Now you take water with a ph of 7 and its starts 1000ppm acid and 1000ppm alkaline.
You see the ph is the same but now when you add 10-20ppm it doesn't even change the ph because of this.
So a soil should be buffered with a good acid and alkalinity and ph set to where we want it. Then when we add our water with little acidic or alkaline influence it doesn't change the ph of the soil but rather the soil changes the ph of the water.
If we have water under 200ppm we are almost assured that it will not affect the soil pH over time.
There is a lot more to it but that's the idea.
See that's what I mean. I'm so used to just throwing plants in the ground & letting them do there thing aside from a little branch training & pruning. Indoor plants are much more finicky. I have much to learn. I'm glad I have you guys to fall back on. You lost me a little there aqua but I'll get the hang of it. Im sure it takes practice & trial & error. I'll research deeper & probably watch videos. Ive been reading grow books & I'm also downloading grow bible from ed Rosenthal. I'm gonna get super soil too,probably foxfarm blueforest. I have promix organic but I can wait on the fox farm. Im still waiting on the seeds anyways cuz of delayed flu shipping & shipping from Netherlands. But as always your info is much appreciated!Alkalinity is more important than ph when testing for compatablity. Ph is just a result of the mix of alkaline and acid makeup. But it only tells you the ratio of each in the mix in a sense. Not how much that's where ppm can kinda give you an idea.
How do I explain it. This is not accurate it just to give you the overall perspective. Say neutral is 7 meaning equal parts. We have 0 acid 0 alkanine
Now 10ppm of acid drops the ph to 6.
Then add 20 ppm of alkalinity and the ph rises to 8.
Again not accurate but the total ppm is 30 and you likely need very little of either to change the ph.
Now you take water with a ph of 7 and its starts 1000ppm acid and 1000ppm alkaline.
You see the ph is the same but now when you add 10-20ppm it doesn't even change the ph because of this.
So a soil should be buffered with a good acid and alkalinity and ph set to where we want it. Then when we add our water with little acidic or alkaline influence it doesn't change the ph of the soil but rather the soil changes the ph of the water.
If we have water under 200ppm we are almost assured that it will not affect the soil pH over time.
There is a lot more to it but that's the idea.
See that's what I mean. I'm so used to just throwing plants in the ground & letting them do there thing aside from a little branch training & pruning. Indoor plants are much more finicky. I have much to learn. I'm glad I have you guys to fall back on. You lost me a little there aqua but I'll get the hang of it. Im sure it takes practice & trial & error. I'll research deeper & probably watch videos. Ive been reading grow books & I'm also downloading grow bible from ed Rosenthal. I'm gonna get super soil too,probably foxfarm blueforest. I have promix organic but I can wait on the fox farm. Im still waiting on the seeds anyways cuz of delayed flu shipping & shipping from Netherlands. But as always your info is much appreciated!
And I'm sure your right. Look at the whole ordeal in Detroit with the water. Who knows what they treat water with. Still rolling from your story from before thoU know something else that's kinda crazy, like I said before I ha e tap/city water where I am, and that whole ordeal trucking water, well anyways I swear I can tell when something's going in with the city water here too, like I do t know what the actual position publicly about putting additives Into the water, but I swear I can tell when it's being "treated" or whatever they actually do, sometimes the water really isn't that bad but there's enough of a variance in the ppm readings, like a dumass I kept thinking my meters were broken when I first came here. I won't even tell u howany hundreds of $ I spent it's stupid. I mean it's prob nothing anyone would ever notice UNLESS they are doing this type of thing.. lol anyways now I forgot what else I was gonna say it where I was going with that, this nectar collector works really well I guessAquaman if ya don't mind bro I'll prob keep ya on"speed dial" u seem like a very knowledgeable cat. With lots of very useful Info.
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