h4ppyf4rmer
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here's what I ended up buying for running my 18 COB bloom array with 220v:
20 - BXRC-30G10K0-D-7X-S VERO29SE 36V 90CRI COBs (18 for my tent, two spare) from Future
3 - mean well HLG-320H-C1400B drivers from Arrow
18 - 140mm pin heatsinks from RapidLED
6 - 1x4 RapidLED frames from RapidLED
18 - heatsink mounts clips from RapidLED
6 - fixture hangers from RapidLED
7g - Arctic silver 5 from amazon
3 - power monitor displays from amazon
3 - 220v timer switches from amazon
300' - 18 AWG solid wire (100-black, 100-white, 100-yellow) from amazon
3 and 5 slot WAGO connectors from amazon
25' 1/4" nylon braiding from amazon (to dress up the wires a little)
I'm sure I'm going to need some small miscellaneous stuff like pvc boxes...
then I cried a little when I looked at my credit card balance...
to mount the COBs to the heatsinks, they come with the heatsinks.You got the screws and washers?
to mount the COBs to the heatsinks, they come with the heatsinks.
There are screws that come with the heatsink to mount the COBs to the heatsink and mount the heatsink to a DIY frame.Sinks and drivers to frames?
Sinks and drivers to frames?
I dont no on on the quantum boards because the quantum boards from what real style says ain't putting out chunkers he sold his Quantum boards I think the new thing is Chill grow lights Quantum boards are going to help logo riginal all white Quantum boards my personal opinion all white is good but some extra Spectrum in there is going to benefit]
Hello there. There is a Roleadro on Amazon that claims it has a 3000k Cree cxa 3070. Of course I couldn't find any specifications about the driver or anything like that but they claim it has some type of Glass lens on it. Just wondering if you knew anything about this light or if it was garbage.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I...tDescription_secondary_view_div_1496468636600Hey guys a lot of you know me from RIU or ICMag but for the LED growers here that have not seen it, here is the recipe for building DIY LED very cheaply. Why build a DIY lamp? You can get up to 49% efficiency if you can find the top bins and run them soft (700mA). You can get 36% efficiency with the mid bin running hard (1400mA). The best commercial LEDs (Area 51, Apache, Onyx) are in the low 30s. Another advantage is the ability to have remote drivers to keep that heat out of your grow space and away from the LED heatsinks.
Everything has changed since COBs became available to us. It is much easier to build a lamp and it turns out that 3000K works just fine on its own, better than HPS even.
For the simplest build the best COBS to use are the Cree CXA3070 and Vero 29. The CXA 3000K has 14% blue and the Vero 3000K 8-10%. They are available on Digikey or if you need a bulk order you can save $ on Arrow.
As far as drivers go, 1.4A is a good compromise between cost and efficiency. They are available on eBay for $13, 90% efficient and power factor corrected. You can use Mean Well LPC-60-1400 but it is lower efficiency and not power factor corrected. If you want to run at 1050mA you can use Mean Well LPC-60-1050. The one I tested was 88% efficient.
For heatsinks, CPU coolers work great for small grows. The 92mm Arctic 11 Plus is a favorite because it can be found for $10 and uses a fluid dynamic bearing fan, lots of cooling power and not too loud. Amazon and Newegg sometimes offer them for $10. Currently outletPC has them for $10 with reasonable shipping cost.
If you are building a medium or large lamp, I recommend HeatsinkUSA 5.88" profile. A 12" length is good for (2) COBs and a 24" length is good for (4) COBs. You can cool it with a single 140mm fan to make a super efficient cooling combo. I recommend the Prolimatech 140mm from Amazon. It is quiet even at 13V and moves a lot of air.
View attachment 415611
The Vero is solder free but the Cree requires a COB holder and to go solder free. Both methods require drilling and tapping the heatsink. I don't mind the soldering so rather than drilling, I mount the COB with Prolimatech PK3 thermal paste and then use kapton to tape the COB in place so it cannot slide sideways. The paste makes a very strong vacuum when you press the COB onto the heatsink. It will not come off from gravity or heat. If you try to pry it off it will break. You have to twist it and then slide it sideways to get it off.
Small build:
View attachment 415595
Medium build:
View attachment 415593
Large build:
View attachment 415594
I have looked at that light and wondered if it would perform well. I am curious as well.Hello there. There is a Roleadro on Amazon that claims it has a 3000k Cree cxa 3070. Of course I couldn't find any specifications about the driver or anything like that but they claim it has some type of Glass lens on it. Just wondering if you knew anything about this light or if it was garbage.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I...tDescription_secondary_view_div_1496468636600
Hello there. There is a Roleadro on Amazon that claims it has a 3000k Cree cxa 3070. Of course I couldn't find any specifications about the driver or anything like that but they claim it has some type of Glass lens on it. Just wondering if you knew anything about this light or if it was garbage.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I...tDescription_secondary_view_div_1496468636600[/QUOTE
That is what I was hoping someone would tell me thank you.yeah, I wouldn't trust the "400w" number on that light.
those Cree parts have a forward voltage of 36v and a maximum current of 2.8 amps. so at maximum you would have 36v x 2.8a = 100watts per COB. that fixture only has tw0 COBs so the COBs can only draw 200 Watts MAX. I would never run anything at max, it would burn those COBs out pretty fast.
so I have no idea where they get there 400Watt number.
Let me ask you a stupid question if I use say a 1400 and a dimmer is that like Deming it down to his 700 I want it to be as efficient as possible when I want and then be able to Blair it alsoyeah, I wouldn't trust the "400w" number on that light.
those Cree parts have a forward voltage of 36v and a maximum current of 2.8 amps. so at maximum you would have 36v x 2.8a = 100watts per COB. that fixture only has tw0 COBs so the COBs can only draw 200 Watts MAX. I would never run anything at max, it would burn those COBs out pretty fast.
so I have no idea where they get there 400Watt number.
I am sorry if that didn't make any sense let me get my facts a little straighter and I will hit you back.Let me ask you a stupid question if I use say a 1400 and a dimmer is that like Deming it down to his 700 I want it to be as efficient as possible when I want and then be able to Blair it also
Okay so what I would like to accomplish is building this lightyeah, I wouldn't trust the "400w" number on that light.
those Cree parts have a forward voltage of 36v and a maximum current of 2.8 amps. so at maximum you would have 36v x 2.8a = 100watts per COB. that fixture only has tw0 COBs so the COBs can only draw 200 Watts MAX. I would never run anything at max, it would burn those COBs out pretty fast.
so I have no idea where they get there 400Watt number.
Is it possible to build my light so that it will run at its absolute maximum efficiency as far as heat and electric usage but then be able to switch it over when you don't care about heat or electric or efficiency you just want the most light. Would a dimmer simply do that or would I need a separate set of drivers?yeah, I wouldn't trust the "400w" number on that light.
those Cree parts have a forward voltage of 36v and a maximum current of 2.8 amps. so at maximum you would have 36v x 2.8a = 100watts per COB. that fixture only has tw0 COBs so the COBs can only draw 200 Watts MAX. I would never run anything at max, it would burn those COBs out pretty fast.
so I have no idea where they get there 400Watt number.
I think I know what you're saying, if you use a 1400ma mean well supply and you use a dimmer on that supply, you will be cutting down on the current. so if you dim it half way, you are effectively running at 700ma and of course half the wattage the COB will use.Let me ask you a stupid question if I use say a 1400 and a dimmer is that like Deming it down to his 700 I want it to be as efficient as possible when I want and then be able to Blair it also
Right so I'm just trying to understand how they are figuring these efficiency ratios not sure if it's wired in parallel or series or the chip itself or the driver that would make it more efficient.No matter what I want the most efficient and coolest running light set up I can getI think I know what you're saying, if you use a 1400ma mean well supply and you use a dimmer on that supply, you will be cutting down on the current. so if you dim it half way, you are effectively running at 700ma and of course half the wattage the COB will use.
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