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DIY LED with COBs - small medium and large grows

  • Thread starter Thread starter SupraSPL
  • Start date Start date Jun 19, 2014
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DIY LED with COBs - small medium and large grows

SupraSPL Jun 19, 2014 767 Replies 563,610 Views
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Toaster79

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#541
dnewsome2 said:
I wonder about Spectrum quality though?
Click to expand...

CXA



CXB

 
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dnewsome2

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#542
How to read that LOL.
 
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dnewsome2

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#543
So if cxb is way better than a cxa is what you're telling me
 
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Toaster79

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#544
dnewsome2 said:
So if cxb is way better than a cxa is what you're telling me
Click to expand...

Toaster79 said:
Cxb produces 30% more light.
Click to expand...
 
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dnewsome2

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#545
It has a lot higher CRI I think mine are only 75
 
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h4ppyf4rmer

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#546
dnewsome2 said:
How many watts at the wall should I expect to be pulling running 2 cxa 3070?
Click to expand...

depends on a few things.
1. what the forward voltage is of the COB running at the current you chose
2. the current you choose
3. efficiency of the driver

so for example:
if you are chose a COB that has a forward voltage 36.2 volts when its running at 1400ma(1.4 a)
and you use a constant current power supply supplying 1400ma with an efficiency of 94%

(36.2v x 1.4a) x 1.06 = 53.75 watts at the wall per COB

I think I did that right };-)
this does not take into account any active cooling (fans)
 
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TRK

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#547
So yeah guys

Bit of a noob question I'm afraid

I am currently in the process of building some more rails in Vero 29 to go with the Cree and something got me kinda turned around

With the Pico Ez-mate connectors for the chips, you have a red (+) and a black (-) pigtail. So for series wiring in my mind you would have the + from the driver into the red pigtail of the first cob, then the black pigtail would run to a wago or whatever and then have the red pigtail of the second COB connected to that same wago and so on and so on till you get back to the driver...

I know that all sounds correct but when I was looking at it, the red going to black wires at the wago connection kinda threw me like I was doing something wrong. Thought maybe I should just ask instead of potentially blowing the string or other expensive shenanigans

Have I got it right fellas?

Your help is appreciated

Cheers
TRK
 
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dnewsome2

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#548
TRK said:
So yeah guys

Bit of a noob question I'm afraid

I am currently in the process of building some more rails in Vero 29 to go with the Cree and something got me kinda turned around

With the Pico Ez-mate connectors for the chips, you have a red (+) and a black (-) pigtail. So for series wiring in my mind you would have the + from the driver into the red pigtail of the first cob, then the black pigtail would run to a wago or whatever and then have the red pigtail of the second COB connected to that same wago and so on and so on till you get back to the driver...

I know that all sounds correct but when I was looking at it, the red going to black wires at the wago connection kinda threw me like I was doing something wrong. Thought maybe I should just ask instead of potentially blowing the string or other expensive shenanigans

Have I got it right fellas?

Your help is appreciated

Cheers
TRK
Click to expand...
I think you are correct but I would definitely check with someone else I'm not that good.
 
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sixstring

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#549
you have it right.you just need to think about series wiring as not a color thing.i use white wire for all my connections because its just + to -
 
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TRK

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#550
thanks very much for taking the time to help me out @dnewsome2 and @sixstring

glad I haven't got it assbackwards

good times
TRK
 
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YouNewerKnow

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#551
Hi guys!
So got some questions I hope you can help me with. Today I got 690w of hps in a 3x3 tent but I want to switch to led.
I've been talking to Vicky from kingbrite and got this shoppinglist, what do you think?

16pcs cree cxb3590 CD bin 3500k 36v: 31usd/pcs;
16pcs ideal holder 50-2303CR: 2.8usd/pcs;
16pcs ideal 50-2300AN: 1.0usd/pcs;
16pcs Reflector KB-D82-90RF: 0.8usd/pcs;
16pcs pre-drilled heatsink Φ133*H70mm(for 50-65W): 10.0usd/pcs
2pcs meanwell HLG-185H-C700B: 40.5usd/pcs;
2pcs TOCOS (soldered) 100K linear potentiometer: 7.25usd/pcs;

I'm planning on running 8 cobs on each driver so it will be 23w at each cob. What will the efficiency be and do I need something else besides wires and a frame?
Sorry for all the questions, hope you can give me some good input.
 
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crocodile og

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#552
Get the DB BIN chips not the CD.

Should be over 65% efficiency.
 
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YouNewerKnow

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#553
Ok thanks
 
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dnewsome2

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#554
YouNewerKnow said:
Ok thanks
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I was going to say Since you cannot return it and get a different one. Just move your light up to an acceptable range and supplement with your CFLs save your money for a better light on your next grow.
 
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dnewsome2

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#555
YouNewerKnow said:
Ok thanks
Click to expand...
Oh crap wrong post sorry
 
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sixstring

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#556
YouNewerKnow said:
Hi guys!
So got some questions I hope you can help me with. Today I got 690w of hps in a 3x3 tent but I want to switch to led.
I've been talking to Vicky from kingbrite and got this shoppinglist, what do you think?

16pcs cree cxb3590 CD bin 3500k 36v: 31usd/pcs;
16pcs ideal holder 50-2303CR: 2.8usd/pcs;
16pcs ideal 50-2300AN: 1.0usd/pcs;
16pcs Reflector KB-D82-90RF: 0.8usd/pcs;
16pcs pre-drilled heatsink Φ133*H70mm(for 50-65W): 10.0usd/pcs
2pcs meanwell HLG-185H-C700B: 40.5usd/pcs;
2pcs TOCOS (soldered) 100K linear potentiometer: 7.25usd/pcs;

I'm planning on running 8 cobs on each driver so it will be 23w at each cob. What will the efficiency be and do I need something else besides wires and a frame?
Sorry for all the questions, hope you can give me some good input.
Click to expand...
if it was me i would use 9 cobs @ 1400ma for that 3 x 3.save on cobs,heatsinks,misc parts.you can use hlg-240-1400ma to power 5 x cobs and hlg 185-1400ma to power the other 4 cobs. or just get 2 of the 240-1400 drivers and run 10 cobs in a slightly dif config. you will still have good efficiency and more power for taller plants.but def ask them for db bin cree.
your plan is fine as well,i just like more power per cob than 23w.its easy to dim the 50w but you cant boost the 23w
 
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h4ppyf4rmer

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#557
sixstring said:
if it was me i would use 9 cobs @ 1400ma for that 3 x 3.save on cobs,heatsinks,misc parts.you can use hlg-240-1400ma to power 5 x cobs and hlg 185-1400ma to power the other 4 cobs. or just get 2 of the 240-1400 drivers and run 10 cobs in a slightly dif config. you will still have good efficiency and more power for taller plants.but def ask them for db bin cree.
your plan is fine as well,i just like more power per cob than 23w.its easy to dim the 50w but you cant boost the 23w
Click to expand...

nine 36v cobs @ 1400ma in a 3x3 .... ooOOooWEeeee that's gonna be bright :cool: .... I Like the Way You think!! :smoking:
 
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1816 House

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#558
So , Project h4ppySix begins with a beer, a joint and power tools. :)
Credit goes to @h4ppyfarmer and @sixstring for all the thinking, and getting me hooked on LED crack.

I have h4ppySix Mini and h4ppySix Max rails cut. I only have a 1" lip on the edge, if I had made it 1.5" then I could mount switch, pot and cord thru it, so now Ill have to put on my Jethro cap and thunk something up.

I'm starting on h4ppySix Mini first, I started with 4 cheesy bag seeds and got carried away with tent, blower , filter, fans ,& cheap light. After modest success, I need another light , like soon.
The h4ppySix Mini is 20", the h4ppySix Max is 41" and will probably be a 5 COB for a 2nd future 2x4x6h tent.

  • 3 x 140mm Pin Heatsink
    $57.00

  • 3 x Sur-Seal Sur-Cool Thermal Pad
    $2.40

  • 1 x Mean Well HLG-185H-C1400B
    $50.00

  • 3 x Bridgelux VERO29 (3000K 90 CRI D)
    $75.00
  • Total:
    $184.60
It was gonna be 2 COB setup for $140, but the driver could run 3-4 type D@36Vx1.4A (150-200)watt or 2- type C@ 70Vx1.4A (200watt). 200w is upper limit of this driver. That's just trouble, don't run power supplies over 75% capacity as a general rule.

Then I went to the Town Dump and found this awesome power cord off an AC unit with a built-in 10 amp circuit breaker.

That's all for now, I have a while for parts. So I'll file the edges or put on some auto door trim for the rail, and start layout for the holes. The sliding rails from RapidLed are a better and easier choice, but I like the diamondplate for pimpin' points!
 
Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
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Dan789

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#559
Not to nightlight the obvious but you need a better execution on that splice, many safer ways to accomplish this connection. You can accomplish the same thing with a simple inline (replaceable) fuse going to your meanwell driver, utilizing insulated "sta-kons".
 
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1816 House

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#560
Oh, I'm not using the stake-on connectors, just the cord. :)
I'll solder and double shrink tube the AC and DC outputs from the driver.
The cord itself is super flexible, double thick outer insulation. Perfect for going up and down and up and down.
I just need a compact 10 amp microswitch to connect it to.
 
Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
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Replies 767
Views 563,610
Started Jun 19, 2014
Latest post Apr 8, 2021
Starter SupraSPL
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