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Buddy Brain
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Please Help Me.
This is a bad first post, but I really need your help. My friend brought me to his work to get what I needed to build this setup (from the OP, with AB top bin CXA3070 3000k's). This wherehouse is like if you went to Mouser and had free play time to grab whatever you wanted to play with at cost.
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When you say "everything running in series", you are, I hope, noticing that you're talking about 170V. Beyond the driver being able to supply that, are you sure you want that high a voltage appearing across your lights?Ok, I am starting to understand the efficiency aspect of running these COB's at lower Amperage. Below is what I have in mind for my 2' x 1.5' grow space (6ft tall). Not including the pc fans or wall wart for the top of the heat sink as I already have those(plan on putting two pc fans on top of this heat sink).
- 8.5 x 18 inch heat sink from heat sink USA.
- I plan on running two CXB3590 80 CRI 3000k
- 9 CREE XTE led's (6 photo deep red, 3 royal blue)
I plan on powering both COB's and the 9 XTE's with ONE MeanWell HLG-120H-C700
Everything will be connected in series, running at 700mA will pull about 120W. Since the power supply has a dimming function I was thinking of maybe running @75W during veg and @120W for flower. Maybe even run it at 600mA during flower for about 110W. The power supply is rated for up to 150W, so running at 110W would still be using 75% of the power supply which still runs above 90% efficiency. Let me know what you guys think, thanks!!!
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When you say "everything running in series", you are, I hope, noticing that you're talking about 170V. Beyond the driver being able to supply that, are you sure you want that high a voltage appearing across your lights?
I was merely thinking about the susceptibility of the flesh. Manufactured lights are boxed up to keep us out. A DIY will invariably not be.Why would 170V DC be a problem?
Greetings,
I'm about to start building a few DIY COB LEDs, having ordered an assortment of parts, and want to get some clarity on questions of efficiency. SupraSPL wrote "You can get up to 49% efficiency if you can find the top bins and run them soft (700mA). You can get 36% efficiency with the mid bin running hard (1400mA)."
So, does "hard", then, connote HALF power (ie: 1/2 of 100W at 36v = 1389ma) with "soft" actually being one QUARTER power (1/4 of 100W at 36v = 695ma)?
So, I'm a little confused over your use of terms. In the original text I cited, you apparently referred to 1/2 power as "hard" and 1/4 power as "soft", and I've been orienting myself to that reality. But in this recent response you say "the CXA3590 run hard and hot loses 20% of its output after about 9 years of 12/12". Is this use of "hard" still referring to 1/2 power?From the LM80 data seaslug posted, the CXA3590 run hard and hot loses 20% of its output after about 9 years of 12/12. But the primary reason for running soft is to increase efficiency by reducing current droop. The main advantage to higher efficiency is to reduce waste heat in the grow space.
We normally run growing LEDs much cooler and softer than CREE expects them to be used so there is little data that would apply to our aplication (LM99) In this example (CREE XPG) there was negligible depreciation after 2 years of 12/12 and may have actually increased output in some cases:
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I would not recommend running an LED at full power if it is to be used as a growing lamp. The longer hours/day a lamp is run, the more important efficiency becomes. If you are using the LED in an application where it only runs for short duration, you can run it at 200% full power if you need to, as long as it is sufficiently cooled.
Current droop refers to the decreasing efficiency of an LED as dissipation power is increased. Some LEDs experience much more current drooo than others, but it may come at a cost of lower efficiency to begin with or greater sensitivity to temp droop.
The orange line represents where output would be if there were no current droop (Vero 29):
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