Nope ive used nothing but water on it, my humidity is set at 68 and temp stays around 80 with light on 73 with it off. Yes I was under the impression that this soil could take me to flower with just water. So lower the humidity to 60? My light is also only on 60%.Are you using the armor si and calmag I see in the pic? The silica is going to raise the pH of your water to above 8 and add a lot of potassium so make sure you use pH down.
As for the calmag, are you using RO water?Your build-a-soil is already loaded with stuff and it looks like the beginning of Mg issue. Mg, Ca and K all need to be balanced for them to be effective. You could be unknowingly tipping the scale and causing an antagonism.
The last thing on my checklist would be temp/humidity. Make sure the root zone is not too cold or wet, and the air should be 72-80°/50-60% rh with good circulation. All the leaves should flutter a little bit in the breeze.
Plants can't move water themselves so they depend on "suction" from the atmosphere, and osmotic pressure pushing from the roots. If your soil gets salty, the pushing slows down (and can reverse and suck the life out of your plants) and if the atmosphere is too wet or dry the suction stops. When either of these happen the plants will move mobile nutrients from older leaves because it's not being brought up from the roots.
More info about exactly what you're doing and we will get you back on track.
Before topping was not much visual problems besides a tint of purple to the leaves, most has started to happen after topping.Are you using the armor si and calmag I see in the pic? The silica is going to raise the pH of your water to above 8 and add a lot of potassium so make sure you use pH down.
As for the calmag, are you using RO water?Your build-a-soil is already loaded with stuff and it looks like the beginning of Mg issue. Mg, Ca and K all need to be balanced for them to be effective. You could be unknowingly tipping the scale and causing an antagonism.
The last thing on my checklist would be temp/humidity. Make sure the root zone is not too cold or wet, and the air should be 72-80°/50-60% rh with good circulation. All the leaves should flutter a little bit in the breeze.
Plants can't move water themselves so they depend on "suction" from the atmosphere, and osmotic pressure pushing from the roots. If your soil gets salty, the pushing slows down (and can reverse and suck the life out of your plants) and if the atmosphere is too wet or dry the suction stops. When either of these happen the plants will move mobile nutrients from older leaves because it's not being brought up from the roots.
More info about exactly what you're doing and we will get you back on track.
Also im not sure what Ro water is, only thing I gave it is spring water at pH of 6.5 and rain water.Are you using the armor si and calmag I see in the pic? The silica is going to raise the pH of your water to above 8 and add a lot of potassium so make sure you use pH down.
As for the calmag, are you using RO water?Your build-a-soil is already loaded with stuff and it looks like the beginning of Mg issue. Mg, Ca and K all need to be balanced for them to be effective. You could be unknowingly tipping the scale and causing an antagonism.
The last thing on my checklist would be temp/humidity. Make sure the root zone is not too cold or wet, and the air should be 72-80°/50-60% rh with good circulation. All the leaves should flutter a little bit in the breeze.
Plants can't move water themselves so they depend on "suction" from the atmosphere, and osmotic pressure pushing from the roots. If your soil gets salty, the pushing slows down (and can reverse and suck the life out of your plants) and if the atmosphere is too wet or dry the suction stops. When either of these happen the plants will move mobile nutrients from older leaves because it's not being brought up from the roots.
More info about exactly what you're doing and we will get you back on track.
So what's your source water like from the tap? I'm not a living soil guy but you're basically feeding your rhizosphere and not the plant. If the bacteria are slow, nutrition to the plant will be slow. If it were my plant I would start by lowering the rh and possibly adding something like recharge.Nope ive used nothing but water on it, my humidity is set at 68 and temp stays around 80 with light on 73 with it off. Yes I was under the impression that this soil could take me to flower with just water. So lower the humidity to 60? My light is also only on 60%.
My water source was spring water from store, and rain water, yeah im definitely doing something wrong. What soil do you use?So what's your source water like from the tap? I'm not a living soil guy but you're basically feeding your rhizosphere and not the plant. If the bacteria are slow, nutrition to the plant will be slow. If it were my plant I would start by lowering the rh and possibly adding something like recharge.
Hopefully soil growers will stop by and offer some more educated advice. I gave up feeding microbes long ago.
You're not doing anything "wrong". Maybe just not optimal. The plant is only mildly effected and 90% healthy.Ive poured water at the top a couple times, most other times I bottom feed by dunking it in water for a sec. I have afan going 247. Light is 24inches above it. I haven't done anything but water and top it, 2 days ago I cut the bottom 2 stems off due to being covered. That is it, i gave it time to recover before doing that as well. No other trimming or nothing dont want to stress it too much.
I grow in coco coir with synthetic nutrients.My water source was spring water from store, and rain water, yeah im definitely doing something wrong. What soil do you use?
If that spring water is loaded with minerals you'll want to know how hard it is. I would at least stick an EC meter in it to check. Rain water is like 5 pH but your soil should be buffered well enough for that not to be a problem.My water source was spring water from store, and rain water, yeah im definitely doing something wrong. What soil do you use?
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