Bulldog420 said:

The only product I use "late" in flower for mites is essential oils. I mentioned the wrong brand before, so I posted it above in this post. Notice the "organic" part? That means they use no pesticides, which would cause your product to fail testing when spraying this late.

As for not seeing any bugs in the flower room. I would be floored if you eradicated the flower room with the pesticides you used.

O yea, veg rooms should get sulfur. Becoming the industry standard for fighting mites.

As for predators, you have to call you bug guy and ask. https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/beneficial-insects-predators-parasites is the company I use. He will put together a plan for releases, and what bugs should be used in your tent considering RH and temps.


For next year:
Beneficial bug release early
Sulfur sprays followed by beneficial bug releases.
Then before flower, hit them with a round of pesticides. I like Grandevo, then Venerate, then essential oils. This knocks down any possible populations.
After a couple days for the last rounds of sprays to mild out, then release more beneficial bugs.
Then one last time before flower.


That is my schedule at least. Mixed in with some stronger AG products.

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Ok thanks. I never saw one in the flower box. So they didn’t get sprayed in there. I scoped n saw nothing. The veg n flower are on opposite sides of house. I was more wanting to put predators in in case a stray or 2 found thier way to the flower box. Want to shut em down before it’s a population of em.

Bulldog420 said:

Excuse me. Broad mites.

They drink pyrethrum for breakfast.

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I wasn’t trying to be an ass. Just I think they’re different. They’re tge 2 worse mites I think though. And both known to 187 a growroom
I am definately going to check into sulfur product for veg. You’re not the first to mention that.
My veg box can go in trash n I’ll nuke that end of house if necessary.
My concern is not allowing them to my flower box. And last minute ridding of any stray that may missed the scope in there. I only scoped the 6 worse leaves in there. On different plants but only 1 really suspect. It came back clean.

Monster762 said:

Hmm they did green back up after raising ph. But I also added to feed so I can’t say for sure what helped. I’m running 6.2 now though.

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That's what saved me, my PH rose from 5.8 to 6.2, so I leave it to raise if I'm putting flower nuits in.

chemistry said:

When ever I use a Phosphorus boost I get a Zinc def similar to what you have, don't know why? But a higher PH seems to be the way to sort it.

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This is a helpful chart in that aspect.

Good thing you don't have in the flower box....... I miss read that.

In veg, I hate to recommend it cause it's poison.....

but the hanging pest strips do wonders.

Habenaro spray, kills soft bellied bugs and eggs on contact. You can use up to day after harvest. You can drink it to.

CrimsonEcho said:

This is a helpful chart in that aspect.

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Yes very.

One last attempt at a kill shot. I got something I’d bet no one has ever tried.
Difference between ethyl and iso?
I know iso spray kills em on contact.(According to google) Eggs too.

Tincture of Green soap tattoo soap (30% ethyl alcohol by volume , sterile water, lavender oil.)
And I’ll add drops of Rosemary mint n tea tree oils. Once I google the drop ratios. And water.
Might run scope across flower again today.
Obviously before I go near veg.

Monster762 said:

One last attempt at a kill shot. I got something I’d bet no one has ever tried.
Difference between ethyl and iso?
I know iso spray kills em on contact.(According to google) Eggs too.

Tincture of Green soap tattoo soap (30% ethyl alcohol by volume , sterile water, lavender oil.)
And I’ll add drops of Rosemary mint n tea tree oils. Once I google the drop ratios. And water.
Might run scope across flower again today.
Obviously before I go near veg.

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Don’t know man, all i hear is they’re a bitch to get rid off. I guess it will not hurt but can you get rid of them completely?
As far as iso and ethyl, i think the mode of action has something to do with stripping the oils from the pests exoskeleton which makes it suffocate but don’t take my word for it. I’m just getting bits and pieces together in my mind at the moment :D

Ah also should add. Essential oils burn very easily.

CrimsonEcho said:

Don’t know man, all i hear is they’re a bitch to get rid off. I guess it will not hurt but can you get rid of them completely?
As far as iso and ethyl, i think the mode of action has something to do with stripping the oils from the pests exoskeleton which makes it suffocate but don’t take my word for it. I’m just getting bits and pieces together in my mind at the moment :D

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Yeah imma try on the ones I know are gone. I’m also getting foggers. Not dr doom I’m gonna get the real ones From what I read the bastards life cycle is only 8 days or so. I just got to try n save the flower. Right now it’s lookin

Monster762 said:

Yeah imma try on the ones I know are gone. I’m also getting foggers. Not dr doom I’m gonna get the real ones From what I read the bastards life cycle is only 8 days or so. I just got to try n save the flower. Right now it’s lookin View attachment 848040 View attachment 848041 View attachment 848042 View attachment 848043

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Sending you good vibes :)

CrimsonEcho said:

Sending you good vibes :)

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Thanks.

Pyrethrin insecticidal soap used today in veg box. That stuff ain’t safe near harvest.or flower imo. No way. I litterally used 1 32oz bottle of spray on the little plants in veg and you can’t breathe anywhere near the room. It’s exhausted straight outside n still got to mask up. Well I masked up n also dusted them half dry with de. When that dries all the way we’ll see how well they can move around. And breathe themselves. I did spray the whole box but it’s only 3.5 sq.ft 32oz total. Plants ain’t dead yet. 2 are actually looking ok. Not good but ok. I’m not gonna scope yet.

Are you seriously considering using a pesticide fogger on flowering plants without even confirming a diagnosis through scoping?

Jesus man. Scope the damn plants.

These plants do not have broad mites. You probably had some sort of pH issue that seems to be partially resolved. Your tops would not have buds in them if you had broads.

Don't EVER assume you have an infestation and spray until you've confirmed it. That's just common sense.

ethcan said:

Are you seriously considering using a pesticide fogger on flowering plants without even confirming a diagnosis through scoping?

Jesus man. Scope the damn plants.

These plants do not have broad mites. You probably had some sort of pH issue that seems to be partially resolved. Your tops would not have buds in them if you had broads.

Don't EVER assume you have an infestation and spray until you've confirmed it. That's just common sense.

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No fogger in room that is infected. Not flower flower predators only. Calm down you done gone crazy. And this is broad mites first pic is my microscope. 2nd is google. Not trying to be an ass and I appreciate your help. But I do got broads.
My flower box is clean. I scope it regularly. It’s been hectic cause I litterally have to go home n change shower all that between boxes. But trying to keep flower clean.
Only things I have plan for flower is predators. I won’t even spray foliar feed once I see little buds.

ethcan said:

Are you seriously considering using a pesticide fogger on flowering plants without even confirming a diagnosis through scoping?

Jesus man. Scope the damn plants.

These plants do not have broad mites. You probably had some sort of pH issue that seems to be partially resolved. Your tops would not have buds in them if you had broads.

Don't EVER assume you have an infestation and spray until you've confirmed it. That's just common sense.

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And you’re right also on the ph. I bumped my ph up to 6.2 and the green has evened out a lot in the scrog. Started taking heavier feeds too in flower. They love it. Water 2x a day. Flower at day 24 now so I’m almost half way there.

Just trying to fully eliminate the mites from house before they get to flower room. It’s on other end of house from veg. I am trying to save plants in veg but might let em go n just fog the veg box and bedroom it’s in.

Idk the answers. That’s part of why I am here. Everyone says sulphur treatments but early on in veg

Flower I know is impossible to safely rid broads or russets. Now one plant enetered flower later than the scrog. That plant I did treat in bathtub with an alcohol green soap as precaution since it’s next to the scrog. but it’s a personal plant and experiment. I’ll be the only one to try it and supposedly iso kills all n is safe past harvest. So I tried my green soap on her. So far nothing but good to report. She perked up good n scope on her is clean so she gets no more treatment.

Right now there are no issues in flower box. Buds seem a little slow but not off by much.
Scope clean everywhere in there. And I wiped walls good with fungicide n neem
Put de on top of coco. And hand rubbed it up the stalks. I’m pretty sure I’ll get this flower through. Clean with no poisons. It’s just extra work but all good.

Monsta, good to hear you figured out whats up. I would highly recommend that insetting out on next crop rotation that you invest in some predatory mites known to eat broads. I say this even if you nuked everything to kingdom com. Use early in your cycle.

Biological control of broad mite involves preventative releases of the predatory mites, Neoseiulus cucumeris and N. californicus and Amblyseius swirskii. It is critical to apply these predatory mites early on in the crop production cycle before broad mite populations become established. Consult a biological control supplier to determine the appropriate release rates.

https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/beneficial-insects-predators-parasites?msclkid=069902b4f6b419c988b95e928e250ff9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Beneficial Insects&utm_term=beneficial insects&utm_content=Beneficial Insects

Broad Mites & Cyclamen Mites

Broad and Cyclamen Mites are tiny arachnids (<0.2 mm in length) that are common pests of strawberries, African violet, ivy and more. Distributed worldwide, broad and cyclamen mites have become major pests to a range of commercial crops and have proven difficult to control. Much of the difficulty in controlling them stems from their minute size and how difficult they are to successfully identify. Use a minimum magnification of a 10x loupe or magnifying glass to get a better look!

Identification & Life Cycle:

• Eggs – Elliptical in shape, transluscent and colorless and laid in clusters with white tufts covering the tops.
• Larvae (1st Instar) – Generally slow moving with a whitish appearance, young cyclamen and broad mites have three pairs of legs and can be 0.1-0.2 mm long. This stage lasts one day.
• Nymph (2nd & 3rd Instar) – Clear and pointed at both ends, nymphs are generally found in depressions on fruit and females can be carried by males. Usually lasts one day.
• Adult – Males are oval shaped and short with long, thin legs. Females are also oval shaped, but more swollen than the adult males. Males live for 5-9 days while females live for 8-13 days. Females will lay approximately 5 eggs per day (30-75 eggs in a lifetime), which can be found on the undersides of leaves and on small fruit. Most dispersal occurs through males carrying female larvae to new leaves and plants, but there is evidence showing other insects like whiteflies carrying mites from plant to plant. In outdoor settings, adults will often be found on shaded areas of the plant making them harder to spot.

Damage Symptoms:

Broad and cyclamen mites have a wide host range and are most prevalent in tropical regions, but are found in greenhouses in more temperate regions. These mite species are widespread and a major pest of both commercial and ornamental crops. They prefer feeding on new growth causing it to twist and harden. Leaves will turn downward and discolor while blooms may abort in the presence of larger mite populations. Streaking on foliage may be evident with flowers becoming deformed and/or reduced in number. Developing fruit will discolor and premature fruit drop can also occur.

Control & Management:

Sanitation is imperative throughout cultivation and between growing seasons. This can be as simple as increasing air flow in the growing area, but can include things like sanitizing the Growing Medium and thorough cleaning of all surfaces.

For situations where a mite population has established itself and high mite levels are already present, knockdown sprays may be necessary before introducing beneficial insects. Contact Insecticide sprays, like Neem Oil, Debug Turbo, Azamax and Pyganic, can be applied directly onto mite populations to suppress them to more manageable levels. Residual insecticides (Horticultural Oils) can also be applied for longer lasting control of all life stages both in and out of season. Always look into possible impacts on pollinators, beneficials and other animal life before using an insecticide.

If a mite population develops, consider introducing Mite Predators. There are many mite predators and they each work best in specific environments. When choosing a mite predator, look for an optimal temperature range and relative humidity compatible with your growing environment. Specialist Insects will target specific pest insects and generally have more restrictive optimal conditions than Generalist Insects. If you have questions about the proper beneficial insect for you, please call us at 1-800-827-2847.

• Mite Predator, Amblyseius andersoni - Survives on Mites, Thrips, pollen, honeydew and fungi making them great for both preventative and active control measure. 42-100°F, higher RH for higher temperatures
• Mite Predator, Amblyseius swirskii - Rapid development and wide-ranging food sources are two of their main benefits. Commonly used for Mite, Thrips and Whitefly infestations. 60-85°F, 70% RH
• Mite Predator, Neosiulus fallacis - Thrives in moderate to cool conditions with higher humidity levels; highly recommended in greenhouse settings. 55-80°F, 50%+ RH
• Mite Predator, Neoseiulus californicus - Versatile and tolerant of a wider range of temperatures and lower humidity than P. Persimilis. 50-105°F, 40-80% RH
• Thrips Predator, Amblyseius cucumeris - Great when used alongside Orius insidiosus and in greenhouse releases. 66-80°F, 65-72% RH

Quick Pest Reference Guide

PLEASE NOTE: All Mite Predators require additional processing time due to rearing and collection times. Please make note of the information in red at the top of each mite predator page and in the Shipping Tab to identify the earliest shipment date. If you have questions about shipment dates, orders can be placed with our sales representatives at 1-800-827-2847.

jumpincactus said:

Monsta, good to hear you figured out whats up. I would highly recommend that insetting out on next crop rotation that you invest in some predatory mites known to eat broads. I say this even if you nuked everything to kingdom com. Use early in your cycle.

Biological control of broad mite involves preventative releases of the predatory mites, Neoseiulus cucumeris and N. californicus and Amblyseius swirskii. It is critical to apply these predatory mites early on in the crop production cycle before broad mite populations become established. Consult a biological control supplier to determine the appropriate release rates.

https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/beneficial-insects-predators-parasites?msclkid=069902b4f6b419c988b95e928e250ff9&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Beneficial Insects&utm_term=beneficial insects&utm_content=Beneficial Insects

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I know I need the californicus from what I read for my climates. It eats em. I definately been looking at predators. I can get a egg of praying mantis ( says like 100 babies but obviously I don’t need half that) for 8.99 shipped. I’m thinking will they stay alive in tent ? That’s all around bug control.
I been saying predators. Thanks for reply. I was looking for just that. A list that targets my issue. I know californicus does but $$. I can easily get the neoselius thing. Amazon prime. There should be a thread here jumpincactus
You should make a beneficial bug thread for people to get right info on exactly which ones are best for thier circumstances. There’s a million bugs n amazon don’t clear list what they do. Searching here gives random answers. but if you made a thread everyone be able to go the bug thread target their issue before it gets bad

Monster762 said:

I know I need the californicus from what I read for my climates. It eats em. I definately been looking at predators. I can get a egg of praying mantis ( says like 100 babies but obviously I don’t need half that) for 8.99 shipped. I’m thinking will they stay alive in tent ? That’s all around bug control.
I been saying predators. Thanks for reply. I was looking for just that. A list that targets my issue. I know californicus does but $$. I can easily get the neoselius thing. Amazon prime. There should be a thread here jumpincactus
You should make a beneficial bug thread for people to get right info on exactly which ones are best for thier circumstances. There’s a million bugs n amazon don’t clear list what they do. Searching here gives random answers. but if you made a thread everyone be able to go the bug thread target their issue before it gets bad

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Use any reputable reasonably priced suppliers like the one I posted. They have excellent tech services to help the grower as to which beneficial best suites their grow zone/environment/issue.

As for the praying mantis unless what each particular predator eats, if there isn't a food source it will meet its demise from starvation.