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DRYER OUTLET STEP DOWN / CONTROLLER?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SnipesNL
  • Start date Start date Dec 10, 2019
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DRYER OUTLET STEP DOWN / CONTROLLER?

SnipesNL Dec 10, 2019 18 Replies 3,441 Views
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SnipesNL

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#1
Hi All,

I have searched for the answer to this question all over the internet and seem to find more arguments than answers. I am a Canadian licensed medical grower. I want to be able to use my four plug dryer outlet to run the equipment in that room ( a couple of 1000w lights, fans etc.) I have seen a product called PowerBox but the trust sites I shop at (such as amazon.ca) show it out of stock. So does some grow suppliers. I also seen step up/down converters but they often lack a dryer plug input or seem too cheaply made to trust a few 1000w on.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a product /subpanel that I can plug into my dryer plug and run some 120 (or is it 110?) v power bars etc off of ? Thanks in advance!
 
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cemchris

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#2
SnipesNL said:
Hi All,

I have searched for the answer to this question all over the internet and seem to find more arguments than answers. I am a Canadian licensed medical grower. I want to be able to use my four plug dryer outlet to run the equipment in that room ( a couple of 1000w lights, fans etc.) I have seen a product called PowerBox but the trust sites I shop at (such as amazon.ca) show it out of stock. So does some grow suppliers. I also seen step up/down converters but they often lack a dryer plug input or seem too cheaply made to trust a few 1000w on.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a product /subpanel that I can plug into my dryer plug and run some 120 (or is it 110?) v power bars etc off of ? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I don't know how much help I can be since I have zero experience with the great white north power delivery.

4 prong should be 220 with a neutral. Usually 30-40 amps. Most on the time in the states you can run a sub with 220/110 off of these. All depends on how it was wired and tied into the box (thats a big depends since you can't trust wiring without checking it). There is a couple of experienced sparkies on your side of he border here. I'm sure they can give you a definitive answer about this. Take everything I am saying with a grain of salt since I am no means licensed or have even seen a box on that side of the border or familiar with code.

As far as a suggestion I would build one or have someone experienced/licensed build it for me. 1 - it will be setup exactly how you want with nothing extra you won't need (big 220v timer or running a relay for a 110v trigger timer, high temp shutoff ect). 2- it will cost loads less. 3 - if someone experienced has the time and is close its always good to pad their pockets a little cause having a sparky on tap is something valuable in this hobby. Specially if you don't have the know how or desire to mess with that stuff (not to mention they usually know a cool HVAC guy which is also a blessing).
 
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basscaptain

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#3
I would pull the outlet..
hook the wires into a sub plan
put a few breakers in and go
 
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Olyver

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#4
Siemens EQL4100, rated for 100A, but small enough to wire to 30A/240V breaker, then add some breakers and receptacles to the Siemens loadcenter.
 
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SnipesNL

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#5
Just to bring you guys up to date. I did find a couple of powerbox suppliers who deliver to Canada but it seems powerbox is retooling and supplies are very limited. I have convertible ballasts so I may switch them to 240v and go that route. Secondly I asked my electrician about building something but he didnt seem to really understand what I was saying!
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#6
cemchris said:
I don't know how much help I can be since I have zero experience with the great white north power delivery.

4 prong should be 220 with a neutral. Usually 30-40 amps. Most on the time in the states you can run a sub with 220/110 off of these. All depends on how it was wired and tied into the box (thats a big depends since you can't trust wiring without checking it). There is a couple of experienced sparkies on your side of he border here. I'm sure they can give you a definitive answer about this. Take everything I am saying with a grain of salt since I am no means licensed or have even seen a box on that side of the border or familiar with code.

As far as a suggestion I would build one or have someone experienced/licensed build it for me. 1 - it will be setup exactly how you want with nothing extra you won't need (big 220v timer or running a relay for a 110v trigger timer, high temp shutoff ect). 2- it will cost loads less. 3 - if someone experienced has the time and is close its always good to pad their pockets a little cause having a sparky on tap is something valuable in this hobby. Specially if you don't have the know how or desire to mess with that stuff (not to mention they usually know a cool HVAC guy which is also a blessing).
Click to expand...

To be more specific, 220 is two 120v hots, a neutral and a ground line. If you were to open up a US household breaker box, you will see what looks like 2 breakers joined with a bracket at the breaker's reset switch. You can easily swap 1 220v circuit for 2 120v circuits. Your amperage is determined by the gauge of the wire you use. Just be sure you follow all local electrical codes if you plan to DIY it.

I have a gas dryer. When I bought my house, I gained 2 120 volt circuits by removing the 220 I no longer needed. It was a pretty quick and easy Saturday afternoon DIY for me, but I also have years of experience with these things.
 
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4plant

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#7
Pony panel. Ditch the plug and check your amperage at the main panel. Put in your own panel with the lights on circuits separate from the fans and pumps. Keep your lights on 220v and the rest on 20A breakers. Just don’t exceed 80% of the amps your main panel sends.
 
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Dirtbag

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#8
Your equipment is currently all 120 and you are wanting to run it from the 240 outlet? I agree in that situation I'd pull the outlet and install a subpanel or small load center off the wires in the box. Pop in a couple breakers and wire up a few outlets from it. Nice thing about doing it that way is you could also wire up an outlet or two in 240 to run big power draw stuff like lights and pull half the amps.

Most guys I know run 240 into regular 120 outlets and mount them upside down so you can tell which is which, that way you can run the same power cord you use for 120. Just make sure to label it well with sharpee or something and not plug the new $350 atomizer into it...

If you look around you can often find them used coming out of demos. I got mine at the local building recycle center for $20, and it even had a handful of breakers in it. Less than $150 I was able to wire 2 x2 plug 240 outlets and 8 x 2 plug 120's running off a 60 amp main.
 
Last edited: Dec 16, 2019
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MIGrampaUSA

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#9
Dirtbag said:
Your equipment is currently all 120 and you are wanting to run it from the 240 outlet? I agree in that situation I'd pull the outlet and install a subpanel or small load center off the wires in the box. Pop in a couple breakers and wire up a few outlets from it. Nice thing about doing it that way is you could also wire up an outlet or two in 240 to run big power draw stuff like lights and pull half the amps.

Most guys I know run 240 into regular 120 outlets and mount them upside down so you can tell which is which, that way you can run the same power cord you use for 120. Just make sure to label it well with sharpee or something and not plug the new $350 atomizer into it...
Click to expand...

That's another acceptable solution. However, I wouldn't be the guy running 220 through 120v outlets. It would be too easy for an old man like me to have a stoned moment and plug something into the wrong outlet. If you decide to use the 120v outlets, I would use a different color. Orange for example instead of the more traditional black or white ones.
 
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Dirtbag

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#10
MIGrampaUSA said:
That's another acceptable solution. However, I wouldn't be the guy running 220 through 120v outlets. It would be too easy for an old man like me to have a stoned moment and plug something into the wrong outlet. If you decide to use the 120v outlets, I would use a different color. Orange for example instead of the more traditional black or white ones.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it has not been a flawless system lol. We always mount them high up on the wall now, upside down and write "240" on them with a black marker ever since someone fried the 120v atomizer plugging it into the wrong outlet.
 
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Moshmen

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#11
SnipesNL said:
Hi All,

I have searched for the answer to this question all over the internet and seem to find more arguments than answers. I am a Canadian licensed medical grower. I want to be able to use my four plug dryer outlet to run the equipment in that room ( a couple of 1000w lights, fans etc.) I have seen a product called PowerBox but the trust sites I shop at (such as amazon.ca) show it out of stock. So does some grow suppliers. I also seen step up/down converters but they often lack a dryer plug input or seem too cheaply made to trust a few 1000w on.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a product /subpanel that I can plug into my dryer plug and run some 120 (or is it 110?) v power bars etc off of ? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Try a recreational vehicle ( motor home ) shops something similar is used
 
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Moshmen

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#12
Dirtbag said:
Your equipment is currently all 120 and you are wanting to run it from the 240 outlet? I agree in that situation I'd pull the outlet and install a subpanel or small load center off the wires in the box. Pop in a couple breakers and wire up a few outlets from it. Nice thing about doing it that way is you could also wire up an outlet or two in 240 to run big power draw stuff like lights and pull half the amps.

Most guys I know run 240 into regular 120 outlets and mount them upside down so you can tell which is which, that way you can run the same power cord you use for 120. Just make sure to label it well with sharpee or something and not plug the new $350 atomizer into it...

If you look around you can often find them used coming out of demos. I got mine at the local building recycle center for $20, and it even had a handful of breakers in it. Less than $150 I was able to wire 2 x2 plug 240 outlets and 8 x 2 plug 120's running off a 60 amp main.
Click to expand...
Best way right there! Much more robust! My bad I thought you’re lookin got plug and play version
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#13
Moshmen said:
Best way right there! Much more robust! My bad I thought you’re lookin got plug and play version
Click to expand...

If you want plug and play, something like this might be what you are looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5000W-Step...757442&hash=item2885e85bec:g:XCIAAOSwQYpdjdpC
 
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SnipesNL

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#14
You guys are awesome! Yes I am hoping for a plug and play system only because I will want to use the dryer outlet again and would prefer not to have to rewire it back. But I like alot of this talk allows me to understand wait I am saying better! I think now I will switch my ballasts to 240v and use a titan controller with a dryer cord wired to it? Thoughts?
 
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cemchris

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#15
Olyver said:
Siemens EQL4100, rated for 100A, but small enough to wire to 30A/240V breaker, then add some breakers and receptacles to the Siemens loadcenter.
Click to expand...

This would be the guy to listen to
 
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Olyver

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#16
Thanks CemChris, if someone wants info on how to assemble a lighting controller, give me a shout, cheerz.
 
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Dirtbag

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#17
cemchris said:
This would be the guy to listen to
Click to expand...

Yup. Pretty much what I used to wire my shed, except I went 60 Amp. Siemens EQ 100 Loadcenter I grabbed from a demo for free.
 
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basscaptain

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#18
very nice.....DB
 
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Dan789

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#19
SnipesNL said:
Hi All,

I have searched for the answer to this question all over the internet and seem to find more arguments than answers. I am a Canadian licensed medical grower. I want to be able to use my four plug dryer outlet to run the equipment in that room ( a couple of 1000w lights, fans etc.) I have seen a product called PowerBox but the trust sites I shop at (such as amazon.ca) show it out of stock. So does some grow suppliers. I also seen step up/down converters but they often lack a dryer plug input or seem too cheaply made to trust a few 1000w on.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a product /subpanel that I can plug into my dryer plug and run some 120 (or is it 110?) v power bars etc off of ? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Suggest you get professional (Electrical) help to sort out what you want to do, so you don't fuk things up...
P.S. It's been 120/240 since the 70's...Even up north.
 
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Started Dec 10, 2019
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