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Wanted First grow struggles?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ArittGrow
  • Start date Start date Jun 25, 2025
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Wanted First grow struggles?

ArittGrow Jun 25, 2025 20 Replies 1,600 Views
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ArittGrow

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#1
Hey guys, technically posted this here before but In a different thread, so figured I’d give it a shot here as well, 14 days into grow and I feel they look.. unhealthy maybe. I’ll answer any questions I can about what I’ve done so far. Any advice is appreciated. ( alittle 18 hour time lapse I did today as well.)
 

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Letsbelievein

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#2
What always helps people help answer your question is what’s your light ppfd, ph and nute levels, watering frequency, humidity and temperature. Usually something can be figured out from that.
 
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Smoking Gun

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#3
ArittGrow said:
Hey guys, technically posted this here before but In a different thread, so figured I’d give it a shot here as well, 14 days into grow and I feel they look.. unhealthy maybe. I’ll answer any questions I can about what I’ve done so far. Any advice is appreciated. ( alittle 18 hour time lapse I did today as well.)
Click to expand...
So what medium are the plants growing in? They look like they are just a bit slow to start. But now for the other necessary questions to help, what are temps and humidity at? Have you given them any food? What kind of lighting are you using? What kind of space are you growing in? What are you doing for ventilation/circulation?
 
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TannedViking

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#4
All of em look to have the same slight curling so ye we really need the info @Letsbelievein mentioned. Mine did something similar which simply was a humidity issue while getting way too much light.
 
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#5
I apologize, I use HPCC Promix AGTIV reach, I watered the medium with half of what the 3 part system from emerald harvest suggests as well as there CalMag solution. (1ml each of 3-part and 2.5ml of cal mag in the same gallon.) Ro water Ph 5.8 - 6.0 got the medium decently wet but no or little runoff. About 8 days in I gave a light water of the same mixture above. (Medium was definitely still pretty moist.) still no run off. At about day 12 they were pretty lengthy and falling over but I had dropped my light from about 2 feet to 12 inches and had it set at 35% Spider Farmer G3000 300W in a 3x3 tent. And I don’t think they liked that shock so I raised it about 3 inches and set it to 30%. I downloaded the photon app and used a paper diffuser and had 280ppfd at that time temps have been between 74 and 81 during the day and between 69 and 73 at night. Humidity between 65 and 75 during the day and 75- 82 during the night, With light on 18h off 6h I purchased a soil sensor for my Spider Farmer controller around this time and had soil temps between 71 at night and about 81 during the day, Water content between 19% and 16% I added about 2-3 inches of medium to the pots to help stabilize and kinda mixed in the much drier medium with the still pretty saturated medium to help try and aerate and dry the medium out. As much as I felt comfortable anyway. It’s day 16 now and I’ll post some that I took today.
 

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#6
Apologies for the late reply, still trying to figure this out.
 
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#7
To be honest I can't see anything wrong with your setup. Only thing that's too high is humidity. Humidity for a plant in veg would be good between 40-70%, but the higher % is more for very young plants and going towards flowering you will need humidity at around 40-50%. I.e: I only keep clones between 75 and 80%humidity because they need their leaves to suck up water and such high humidity opens those stomata up to facilitate that.

Also if you add new soil, that soil has nutes for a few days, so be careful with feeding extra on top. Could make it very hot. Dry fresh medium also needs to be activated with water first to really set those nutes in motion.

I think that if you just keep doing what you are doing, and try to lower the humidity slowly you will see them perk up. They all look thicc and green (:
 
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#8
TannedViking said:
To be honest I can't see anything wrong with your setup. Only thing that's too high is humidity. Humidity for a plant in veg would be good between 40-70%, but the higher % is more for very young plants and going towards flowering you will need humidity at around 40-50%. I.e: I only keep clones between 75 and 80%humidity because they need their leaves to suck up water and such high humidity opens those stomata up to facilitate that.

Also if you add new soil, that soil has nutes for a few days, so be careful with feeding extra on top. Could make it very hot. Dry fresh medium also needs to be activated with water first to really set those nutes in motion.

I think that if you just keep doing what you are doing, and try to lower the humidity slowly you will see them perk up. They all look thicc and green (:
Click to expand...
Awesome, I opened up one of the vents higher in the tent and the humidity has stayed around 58% so far this morning. When I added the medium on the top layer I watered or rather (misted) that top lawyer with just RO water Ph to 6.0ish. Day 14 I watered about a cup of RO water to all 4 plants so about a quarter cup a piece with just alittle syringe. Might water again tonight, noticing that little spot drying up. Would it be smart to keep watering with straight RO water until I actually start seeing deficiencies?
 
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#9
ArittGrow said:
Awesome, I opened up one of the vents higher in the tent and the humidity has stayed around 58% so far this morning. When I added the medium on the top layer I watered or rather (misted) that top lawyer with just RO water Ph to 6.0ish. Day 14 I watered about a cup of RO water to all 4 plants so about a quarter cup a piece with just alittle syringe. Might water again tonight, noticing that little spot drying up. Would it be smart to keep watering with straight RO water until I actually start seeing deficiencies?
Click to expand...
If you have to sit out the soil without adding anything RO is the way to go. Makes it genuinely easier to measure the exact nutes remaining and then you can act accordingly with feeding before they'd have to tell you through a deficiency.
TDS meters any day all day :D
 
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#10
TannedViking said:
To be honest I can't see anything wrong with your setup. Only thing that's too high is humidity. Humidity for a plant in veg would be good between 40-70%, but the higher % is more for very young plants and going towards flowering you will need humidity at around 40-50%. I.e: I only keep clones between 75 and 80%humidity because they need their leaves to suck up water and such high humidity opens those stomata up to facilitate that.

Also if you add new soil, that soil has nutes for a few days, so be careful with feeding extra on top. Could make it very hot. Dry fresh medium also needs to be activated with water first to really set those nutes in motion.

I think that if you just keep doing what you are doing, and try to lower the humidity slowly you will see them perk up. They all look thicc and green (:
Click to expand...
Most decent soils have way more than just a few days worth of nutrients a lot of the time they’re generally loaded with either 30 to 60 days that being said it still needs to be supplemented if your plant is a vigorous grower because it can out pace in growth what is available in the soil that’s why we have to feed them with fertilizer which also means the longer that we feed fertilizer to a plant and a soil that’s fertilizer rich the more bang for your buck you get out of the dirt
 
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#11
So in soil you never to ph anything.
Soils are made with ph buffers peat being the main buffer.
Only time you should be ph anything if your chosen medium is soil if if you have either inherently alkaline water source or an inherently acidic water source you can water your plants with pH is high as eight 8 1/2 and is low as four with a decent soil it’s made that way otherwise every plant under the sun would die if you use that soil make sense?
That plant the only issue that I see with it is a slight malformation of some leaves due to most likely some type of lighting issue for prolong period of time
And because of the way, the soils are made you don’t really need to check runoff for anything as long as you start using half dose nutrients of most any nutrient maker under the sun, and then watch your plant for any toxicities, This is is an almost full proof metric to start at in order to ensure that you don’t have a heavy hand and overdose your plant with fertilizer. You should never start using any nutrients with your plant until it is comfortably i vegetative cycle. a seedling is born with more than enough nutrition to last it through until it’s full transition to vegetative growth.
Dont go over 40% light output in veg.
Seriously. You only PH anything if you have a bad water source or you’re in Hydro or Cocoa otherwise use your pH one to study a wobbly table or some shit.
 
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#12
Captspaulding said:
So in soil you never to ph anything.
Soils are made with ph buffers peat being the main buffer.
Only time you should be ph anything if your chosen medium is soil if if you have either inherently alkaline water source or an inherently acidic water source you can water your plants with pH is high as eight 8 1/2 and is low as four with a decent soil it’s made that way otherwise every plant under the sun would die if you use that soil make sense?
That plant the only issue that I see with it is a slight malformation of some leaves due to most likely some type of lighting issue for prolong period of time
And because of the way, the soils are made you don’t really need to check runoff for anything as long as you start using half dose nutrients of most any nutrient maker under the sun, and then watch your plant for any toxicities, This is is an almost full proof metric to start at in order to ensure that you don’t have a heavy hand and overdose your plant with fertilizer. You should never start using any nutrients with your plant until it is comfortably i vegetative cycle. a seedling is born with more than enough nutrition to last it through until it’s full transition to vegetative growth.
Dont go over 40% light output in veg.
Seriously. You only PH anything if you have a bad water source or you’re in Hydro or Cocoa otherwise use your pH one to study a wobbly table or some shit
Click to expand...
Okay, that makes sense. I figured once I realized my medium wasn’t majority Coco that I probably over fed them, also when I tested my water initially it was about 10.1 ph, so I figured I needed to adjust, didn’t know the range was that far though. Would it still be better to shoot closer to 6 if mine starts around 10.1 ph, I also have my light at 40% currently and 14 inches away from top of plant. With a PPFD of about 380-400 using the photon app. Is this to much? I’m on day 17 of them popping out the medium.
 
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#13
Captspaulding said:
So in soil you never to ph anything.
Soils are made with ph buffers peat being the main buffer.
Only time you should be ph anything if your chosen medium is soil if if you have either inherently alkaline water source or an inherently acidic water source you can water your plants with pH is high as eight 8 1/2 and is low as four with a decent soil it’s made that way otherwise every plant under the sun would die if you use that soil make sense?
That plant the only issue that I see with it is a slight malformation of some leaves due to most likely some type of lighting issue for prolong period of time
And because of the way, the soils are made you don’t really need to check runoff for anything as long as you start using half dose nutrients of most any nutrient maker under the sun, and then watch your plant for any toxicities, This is is an almost full proof metric to start at in order to ensure that you don’t have a heavy hand and overdose your plant with fertilizer. You should never start using any nutrients with your plant until it is comfortably i vegetative cycle. a seedling is born with more than enough nutrition to last it through until it’s full transition to vegetative growth.
Dont go over 40% light output in veg.
Seriously. You only PH anything if you have a bad water source or you’re in Hydro or Cocoa otherwise use your pH one to study a wobbly table or some shit.
Click to expand...

What that clown said.

I think it was born with common derpism and now too much light is making the leaves grow without serrated edges. Growing in soil is designed to be easy, nature does the heavy lifting for you and ironically you're not growing weed... well you are, but you're really cultivating microbes in the soil that break it down and make nutrients available to the plant. Sometimes it's good to remind yourself of that, and you'll have greater respect for your choice of medium and maybe care for it more properly.
 
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ArittGrow

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#14
Ninjadogma said:
What that clown said.

I think it was born with common derpism and now too much light is making the leaves grow without serrated edges. Growing in soil is designed to be easy, nature does the heavy lifting for you and ironically you're not growing weed... well you are, but you're really cultivating microbes in the soil that break it down and make nutrients available to the plant. Sometimes it's good to remind yourself of that, and you'll have greater respect for your choice of medium and maybe care for it more properly.
Click to expand...
So my medium is a good choice just probably should have understood it more before just throwing nutrients in it? What grow medium would you guys recommend if not what I’m using? I don’t mean to be asking a million questions just really enjoying the growing part of this so far and really want to give my plants the best possible outcome I can. I appreciate all the support so far.
 
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#15
ArittGrow said:
Okay, that makes sense. I figured once I realized my medium wasn’t majority Coco that I probably over fed them, also when I tested my water initially it was about 10.1 ph, so I figured I needed to adjust, didn’t know the range was that far though. Would it still be better to shoot closer to 6 if mine starts around 10.1 ph, I also have my light at 40% currently and 14 inches away from top of plant. With a PPFD of about 380-400 using the photon app. Is this to much? I’m on day 17 of them popping out the medium.
Click to expand...
Bro, yeah it is a little bit too much in terms of your light. You really need to raise that thing. The 40% is OK right I don’t ever go over 40% when I’m vegging my plants. So I suggest that is a good ceiling for that period of growth but I keep all of my lights really high man like 25 to 30 inches above canopy and that’s both during vegetative and flower And flower. I boost my plants to the lamp as opposed to dropping it down on a plant by plant basis because not every plant wants the same amount of light even if it’s from the same seed stock because of variations in phenotypes if your water source is 10.1 that’s a little high, but you should be fine And then also looking at your plant again you know aside from the fact that it could be light disturbances that caused the male formations on your leaf. I’m more inclined to go with the fact that it’s just a little mutated and sometimes they’ll come out of the shed. Weird but they’ll grow through a couple of leaf sets and they’ll be just fine and I think that’s the case you But here’s a couple of pics of my rig so you can get an idea of how I keep my lights set
Also, I rarely finish any of my runs above 80% output and just because I have big lights doesn’t mean that the square footage impact is any different than a 1000 W light as compared to my 7000
Pick one is my current run
Pick two is to show that yields don’t suffer at the settings. There was many weeks left before I harvested that crop.
Pick three is the show that I use boxes and totes to boost my plants when needed as opposed to dropping lamps Pick four is really put emphasis on the distance in between the top of my canopy and the lamp in my flower room pick five is my veg space also a shot putting emphasis on the distance between my lamps and the top of canopy. Six flowers under these settings
And the last pic is again to emphasize the distance between the top of my flowers and the lamp
 

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Halloweed

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#16
Captspaulding said:
Bro, yeah it is a little bit too much in terms of your light. You really need to raise that thing. The 40% is OK right I don’t ever go over 40% when I’m vegging my plants. So I suggest that is a good ceiling for that period of growth but I keep all of my lights really high man like 25 to 30 inches above canopy and that’s both during vegetative and flower And flower. I boost my plants to the lamp as opposed to dropping it down on a plant by plant basis because not every plant wants the same amount of light even if it’s from the same seed stock because of variations in phenotypes if your water source is 10.1 that’s a little high, but you should be fine And then also looking at your plant again you know aside from the fact that it could be light disturbances that caused the male formations on your leaf. I’m more inclined to go with the fact that it’s just a little mutated and sometimes they’ll come out of the shed. Weird but they’ll grow through a couple of leaf sets and they’ll be just fine and I think that’s the case you But here’s a couple of pics of my rig so you can get an idea of how I keep my lights set
Also, I rarely finish any of my runs above 80% output and just because I have big lights doesn’t mean that the square footage impact is any different than a 1000 W light as compared to my 7000
Pick one is my current run
Pick two is to show that yields don’t suffer at the settings. There was many weeks left before I harvested that crop.
Pick three is the show that I use boxes and totes to boost my plants when needed as opposed to dropping lamps Pick four is really put emphasis on the distance in between the top of my canopy and the lamp in my flower room pick five is my veg space also a shot putting emphasis on the distance between my lamps and the top of canopy. Six flowers under these settings
And the last pic is again to emphasize the distance between the top of my flowers and the lamp
Click to expand...
I like that hanging picture. Are you in to clowns, house of 1000 corpses, or horror in general?

RIP Sid Haig.
 
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Captspaulding

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#17
Halloweed said:
I like that hanging picture. Are you in to clowns, house of 1000 corpses, or horror in general?

RIP Sid Haig.
Click to expand...
Brother.
Sid haig is the man.
And yes HUGE fan of 1000 corpses and rejects.
Im starting a seed bank for sale page
“Capt spauldings house of 1000 colas”
Theres a damned anthology of capt spaulding pics.
I co opted the living ahit out of capt,
Literally every online account i have is under the name. I even hava a bank card with it
I have capt spaulding for pres stickers everywhere in my life.
Everycar i own
The shirts.
Its kinda ridiculous
They even call my hotrod the spaulding car at the track.
Its name is even painted on the side. Its called the puddle jumper, but they all call it the spaulding car,

So yeah man, im a tiny maybe a little fan.

Also clowns in general.
Huge horror fan. I take it you are. Given your name. My favorite holiday,
 

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#18
Fuck yeah!
 
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#19
TannedViking said:
To be honest I can't see anything wrong with your setup. Only thing that's too high is humidity. Humidity for a plant in veg would be good between 40-70%, but the higher % is more for very young plants and going towards flowering you will need humidity at around 40-50%. I.e: I only keep clones between 75 and 80%humidity because they need their leaves to suck up water and such high humidity opens those stomata up to facilitate that.

Also if you add new soil, that soil has nutes for a few days, so be careful with feeding extra on top. Could make it very hot. Dry fresh medium also needs to be activated with water first to really set those nutes in motion.

I think that if you just keep doing what you are doing, and try to lower the humidity slowly you will see them perk up. They all look thicc and green (:
Click to expand...
I am a new grower. I have my plants outside. It’s 90° out. I don’t have control over the humidity and temperature is what not any help would be appreciated.
 
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#20
Bozzin said:
I am a new grower. I have my plants outside. It’s 90° out. I don’t have control over the humidity and temperature is what not any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain as a Southern California grower. They start to look unhappy at 90 degrees but if you move em to the shade the hottest part of the day they won't bitch as much, even up to about 110. I grow in containers just so I can move them around... if I want to flip a plant in June I can just park it in the shed for extra darkness. If you're in the ground you can't move around but you can exert some control. A 50% shade cloth will help on those hot days. Put the shade cloth low enough to the tops of your plants and it'll also help keep the moths from laying eggs (ie bud worms).

If there's rain and your plants are flowering, you can throw a tarp over them... but learn from my fail, make sure no water pools on the tarp.

Outdoors, the real Public Enemy #1 is the bugs and critters. That can be managed too, the trick is to know from day 1 you are fighting a war, it's you vs the bugs and their most powerful weapon is stealth.

Edit: And numbers. Stealth and the size of their army.
 
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