View attachment 2357359View attachment 2357358White widdow strain. First time grower and had to keep this in veg while life has been chaotic and couldn’t do the process as I’d liked
But this is the current standing. I’m not sure if I lily popped too much, but only using a se2000 from spider farmer and didn’t want to have wispy buds of light can’t penetrate anyway give me some pointers or what not to dos
Would you suggest removing them completely? The thin ones in the centre that is? Just managed to keep it alive but had to move house 3/times! Winter in uk also so has that to deal withI would prune the thinner stems from the interior. This will open up the center and allow good light penetration.
I’ve got a little seedling in waiting to catch up then I’ll do as you suggested and add flowering nutes before the flip!Your plant looks healthy and ready to start flowering. I wouldn't do any more pruning. Maybe add some flowering nutrients a few days before changing the light.
That's a problem when there's only one tent. You might consider a second tent. Then one can be used for vegetation and the other for flowering. The bigger plant looks ready to flower. It has an excellent crown and should stretch nicely.I’ve got a little seedling in waiting to catch up then I’ll do as you suggested and add flowering nutes before the flip!
That's a problem when there's only one tent. You might consider a second tent. Then one can be used for vegetation and the other for flowering. The bigger plant looks ready to flower. It has an excellent crown and should stretch nicely.
Yes sir I would, then I would start flower asapWould you suggest removing them completely? The thin ones in the centre that is? Just managed to keep it alive but had to move house 3/times! Winter in uk also so has that to deal with, but surprisingly it’s stayed alive
The cool thing about vegging plants is they don't have to have uninterrupted and consistant dark. Vegging plants can go anywhere where there is a little warmth and less than 12 hours of dark at a time.I’ve got a small 60x60 I’ll be using in future for clones or seeds etc, we have just moved into the new house. Life has just slowed now to where I can stop and enjoy the plants again. But as you stated it’s stopped me from been able to go as I need to.. would you suggest sacking the small ones off I’ve got going and pursue this big boy and maximise that.. or can I hold off another 2/3 weeks and hope they have atleast got some growth to get a yield?
That's a tough call. The big one could wait, I think. Control of when to flower is what's nice about photos. I don't like to cull a perfectly healthy plant. If it were me, I'd probably try to figure out how to keep the small one going till it's ready to flower. I've mcgyvered some odd grow spaces. I had some in a closet with a light hanging from the pole, for example. That 60x60 tent would work even if you only had a good fluorescent light in it. Growth might slow till you get it under better light. Vegetation doesn't need as much light as flowering.would you suggest sacking the small ones off I’ve got going and pursue this big boy and maximise that.. or can I hold off another 2/3 weeks and hope they have atleast got some growth to get a yield?
I can see you consider the light change to be the beginning of flowering. I don't. I think of the stretch as the last part of vegetation, with flowering beginning when stretching ends. Either way, we agree that N is important through the end of stretch. That said, I didn't see the type of nutrients the OP is using. What you say may be true for synthetics, but organics tend to be slow, and that requires feeding sooner. I use organic nutrients, so I start changing the mix before I start changing the light. (I use a progressive light change.) I usually top dress half veg and half flower nutrients (and boost the Mg) about a week before the light changes.2nd don't start flower nutrients on the larger plant until around day14 of flower. N is needed until the big stretch in flower ends. Then switch to flower nutrients.
Day 1 of Flower , and this is Industry standard,is the first day after 1st night with lights out for 12 hours. When a breeder gives you a flowering time you start counting from this point. Been that way for as long as I have been growing. So both to give and recieve advice we should all use the same time standard. It's called Operizationalizing....yes it's a real word.I can see you consider the light change to be the beginning of flowering. I don't. I think of the stretch as the last part of vegetation, with flowering beginning when stretching ends. Either way, we agree that N is important through the end of stretch. That said, I didn't see the type of nutrients the OP is using. What you say may be true for synthetics, but organics tend to be slow, and that requires feeding sooner. I use organic nutrients, so I start changing the mix before I start changing the light. (I use a progressive light change.) I usually top dress half veg and half flower nutrients (and boost the Mg) about a week before the light changes.
Pedantry aside, I'm aware of the arguments. I suppose I prefer to think for myself, even if it does involve some iconoclastic cogitations.Day 1 of Flower , and this is Industry standard,is the first day after 1st night with lights out for 12 hours. When a breeder gives you a flowering time you start counting from this point. Been that way for as long as I have been growing. So both to give and recieve advice we should all use the same time standard. It's called Operizationalizing....yes it's a real word.
My experience is you stop the N as I said before about day 14 of flower about a week before stretch ends, this is ample time.
Lol it's not about that's the way it's always been done.....it's about everyone understanding day 21 as day 21...not what you as an individual think. But have fun and I'm done blowing up this man's thread.Pedantry aside, I'm aware of the arguments. I suppose I prefer to think for myself, even if it does involve some iconoclastic cogitations.
What I've noticed is how flowering times are often wrong, and I'm certainly not the first to notice (or write about it on a forum). It's as if the breeders and sellers are going by the end of stretch and the appearance of flowers. It's also interesting how the stretch is so like vegetation. You said it yourself: "don't start flower nutrients on the larger plant until around day14 of flower." The ideas in the statement disagree with each other. Why use vegetation nutrients during flowering? Well... The best answer is, it's not during flowering. Vegetation nutrients are used because stretching is part of the vegetation stage. Flowering nutrients are not used because the plant is not yet in the flowering stage.
Some growers are now using a progressive light duration change. In that case, there isn't a specific flip date. The duration is changed over many days or even weeks. I don't see how your overnight method would be applied in this case.
Anyway, I surely didn't mean to argue, but I never have liked "we've always done it that way" as an answer. Sure, the old ways are often valid, but not always, and strict adherence to them can lure a person into habitual absence of thought.
Terminology aside, we still haven't looped back to asking the OP what type of nutrients they use--or how that matters.
I use ph perfect atm. So always micro geo and bloom in the feeds then I have big bud candy and also big bud coco, are they the feed id be adding after the 14daysThe cool thing about vegging plants is they don't have to have uninterrupted and consistant dark. Vegging plants can go anywhere where there is a little warmth and less than 12 hours of dark at a time.
2nd don't start flower nutrients on the larger plant until around day14 of flower. N is needed until the big stretch in flower ends. Then switch to flower nutrients.
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