@smokedareefer A fine coating of precipitation on the bottom. This is 10g/L rate. Water did clear up. I stirred it back up, we will see if it precipitates back out. I think agitation or bubbling at 10/L would work, but if you want it to be shelf...
A fine coating of precipitation on the bottom. This is 10g/L rate. Water did clear up.
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I stirred it back up, we will see if it precipitates back out.
I think agitation or bubbling at 10/L would work, but if you want it to be shelf stable like PH up we would need to drop back, maybe 5g/L. I can run that for you and verify this weekend if you want.
Killer setup growmie great shit...love the control you did for this..now I have the same fogponic fogger and the issue I had and others is the nutrients in the water and the emitter doesn't go hand in hand together too well...
Now you could go a much better route but it's gna cost like 2k to do doing it with true nano bubbles and get you a nano injector/mixer and a Oxygen concentrator and call it a day...h would have far more control and constant orp/do too..but it would be a bit costly wise ..but killer setup... Ya as for the emitters clogging I've had it happen from salts as I don't run organics in my resi at all I only hand feed those or foliar and keeps resi and things nice and clean and problem free always but with fogponics it would be more foliar spray only for biostims and things vs root drench and all of course....
Also when adding pH up or down ALWAYS DILUTE it prior to putting in the resi as esp pH up can cause nutrient fall out and stirring with the correct tool as if your using plastic or metal it can change the charge of the water as wood/bamboo is best..but ya I always dilute pH until there's enough water that it's clear.. usually 1:20 works...I'm a huge fan of regular bleach non scented in the resi as well I add 0.02% as it starts filling and it cleans and disinfectants as it's filling and when it's full it's diluted and sterile and does absolute wonders I don't use anything else as in h2o2 or enzymes or anything don't forget the decimal I'f it smells like bleach there's too much in it...and I still run bennies and no issues as it's no where near a toxic level for them....
I stirred it back up, we will see if it precipitates back out.
I think agitation or bubbling at 10/L would work, but if you want it to be shelf stable like PH up we would need to drop back, maybe 5g/L. I can run that for you and verify this weekend if you want.
also been using fert s and nutes interchangeably for a long time... fertilizers and
products that are labeled, “plant food,” are really just soil additives that contain
lots of nutrients.
Got no grow now. Pleasantly plump.
Just thought ferts and nutes were the same but I am humble and willing to learn if they are different.
Otherwise thought we all have common ground.
Sorry, that all got posted already, but I get that I use too many words. I'd probably nope out of most of my posts too if I were you.
I'm using Jack's clone, Epsom, and Mr. Fulvic. Total ppm = 300 on the 500 scale. This is up from 180PPM when I started these clones because they looked hungry. The boost did not improve how they looked.
Very similar to your earlier recommendation, it was already in there.
There comes that special time in every grower's life, where they just have to admit they have no idea what they are doing. I guess that's today for the mouthy stooge.
First up, the real sour. Aptly named, cause it is making me sour.
Root life rockin. Above ground sucking.
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Next, Sour Diesel. I need an exhaust pipe to suck on.
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These plants are getting worse, not better.
So the changes yesterday were to shut off all air movement and shift towards red photons. Didn't work.
This is starting to get under my skin a bit. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
@1diesel1 , Mosh said you had some experience with viroids. I've never seen any of it personally. Can you confirm or deny? I'll go look for your thread Mosh mentioned.
I enjoy using ec vs ppm as it's a set number no matter what country and just a bit easier to explain..just a thought...I also like running much colder resi water too like 55-60f esp with LEDs in the 82-84f but leaf surface temp is most important vs room temp and vpd too....I also like running 5.6-5.8 for young plants too ..I run my seeds and clones at 3.0ec just fine but also vpd environment is on right as well which is also crucial for LEDs..and having the stomata opened and plants at their best...your running fogponics with Coco?? Is that right or is the fogponics just cloning? As plants also go thru some shock when they go from hydro roots to substrate media roots anyways..and running LEDs is a diff ball game as in the nutritional uptake of the plants needs...
If you need to test for hop latent viroid do not use a leaf sample ONLY USE ROOT SAMPLES!!! As the leaf can show a negative result but the plant can be infected still and roots will not give you false negatives....and you can't always tell by looking at a plant if it's infected it can be and not show symptoms until something happens....
I enjoy using ec vs ppm as it's a set number no matter what country and just a bit easier to explain..just a thought...I also like running much colder resi water too like 55-60f esp with LEDs in the 82-84f but leaf surface temp is most important vs room temp and vpd too....I also like running 5.6-5.8 for young plants too ..I run my seeds and clones at 3.0ec just fine but also vpd environment is on right as well which is also crucial for LEDs..and having the stomata opened and plants at their best...your running fogponics with Coco?? Is that right or is the fogponics just cloning? As plants also go thru some shock when they go from hydro roots to substrate media roots anyways..and running LEDs is a diff ball game as in the nutritional uptake of the plants needs...
If you need to test for hop latent viroid do not use a leaf sample ONLY USE ROOT SAMPLES!!! As the leaf can show a negative result but the plant can be infected still and roots will not give you false negatives....and you can't always tell by looking at a plant if it's infected it can be and not show symptoms until something happens....
I explained the PPM vs EC thing above. On my own systems where I can run out the decimal points I use EC.
Res water of 55* is not sufficient to grow bacteria quickly. Because of the testing I am doing 74* is preferred, but I can't get there because lights are 40" away and all the way turned down. In this case, room temp is leaf temp, but I use an iR gun to measure leaf temps normally. The mini split is adding heat, not in AC mode, that's how low the lights are.
Yes fog with coco. This is not fog, it is RDWC. Fog is another tent.
Those roots are not in shock. And yeah I'm familiar with lighting a little bit.
I have no idea if I have HLV. I'm hoping an expert like Diesel or @Deadstill will stop by and let me know. If I become convinced that is the problem, I'm not going to pay to test them. I'll just go back to seed.
The black box contains electronics so I can control timings with software. Here are the values I'm starting with:
// THESE CONSTANTS SET THE TIMING AND FUNCTIONALITY *******************************
/* 10 seconds is 10000
* 1 minute is 60000
* 5 minutes is 300000
* 10 minutes is 600000
* 1 hour is 3,600,000
* 6 hours is 21,600,000
* 18 hours is 64,800,000
*/
const int FogInterval = 30000; // number of millisecs between fog cycles
const int ResFanInterval = 10000; // number of millisecs between Res Fan cycles
const int PowerHeadInterval = 10000; // number of millisecs between PowerHead cycles
const int LightInterval = 10000;
const int TentFanInterval = 60000;
const int FogDuration = 50000;
const int ResFanDuration = 3000;
const int PowerHeadDuration = 10000;
const int LightDuration = 10000;
const int TentFanDuration = 60000;
I'm going to open source all this stuff, if we have any hackers or makers out there, I'll share the designs and the software for this project, just ask.
A normal timer does not give me the amount of control I want to see what the set points SHOULD be.
I'm also using Aqua's design on this to inject O2 in the res. After steady state is achieved, there should be 90% O2 in the res atmosphere / root zone.
Not sure if this is the same thing but this is MB15 and it may have some of the same family genetics. It was a bitch to stabilize and grow out of that mottled leaf stage. It still has some but after it grew, it got less severe. I had issues with bacteria and not enough airflow. I hit them with Orca, S AG and TPS billions. I know you keep your space clean so prob not the issue.