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Front row ag?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hoosier_grower
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2020
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Front row ag?

Hoosier_grower Mar 24, 2020 29 Replies 32,216 Views
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Hoosier_grower

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#1
What up farmers, Im currently running recirc flood&drain with the canna coco line a&b rhizo boost zyme etc love the results but would like to leave paying for and storing watered nutes in the past after this run.....So quick question any of you used front row ag yet? Comparable to jacks, veg-bloom or flora flex in a sense theyre dry salts Ik Miami mango uses them with good results and an ig buddy is killin it with em..any info/experiences opinions welcome
 

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BillFarthing

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#2
Their awesome salesman Eric went to Fluence. I haven't heard anything from them since then.

For the money, they are good. One of my clients got better yeilds when using just their bases (no bloom booster).
 
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Hoosier_grower

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#3
BillFarthing said:
Their awesome salesman Eric went to Fluence. I haven't heard anything from them since then.

For the money, they are good. One of my clients got better yeilds when using just their bases (no bloom booster).
Click to expand...



Good morning Bill thanks for the input and thats impressive...Really? They were just using the 2 part nothing else? No boosters or added supps?
 
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BillFarthing

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#4
Hoosier_grower said:
Good morning Bill thanks for the input and thats impressive...Really? They were just using the 2 part nothing else? No boosters or added supps?
Click to expand...

If you look at cannabis tissue samples, the plant absorbs roughly 4-1-5 NPK. You try to flush out the excess bloom booster that they push at the hydro store the plant doesn't absorb anyways. This grower I did some work for killed it with just the bases, a taper at week 7 and 2 weeks of flush.
 
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cemchris

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#5
BillFarthing said:
If you look at cannabis tissue samples, the plant absorbs roughly 4-1-5 NPK. You try to flush out the excess bloom booster that they push at the hydro store the plant doesn't absorb anyways. This grower I did some work for killed it with just the bases, a taper at week 7 and 2 weeks of flush.
Click to expand...

@Hoosier_grower If you take anything away from this site. Take what he said to heart.
 
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Anthem

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#6
BillFarthing said:
If you look at cannabis tissue samples, the plant absorbs roughly 4-1-5 NPK. You try to flush out the excess bloom booster that they push at the hydro store the plant doesn't absorb anyways. This grower I did some work for killed it with just the bases, a taper at week 7 and 2 weeks of flush.
Click to expand...
This is pretty much the same thing MiMedGrower does from what I have read. Now once again I have to ask myself if I have it all wrong. So no PK busters and you get great results?
 
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Tomkins2010

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#7
I am currently on my first try with Front Row AG. I currently just use the Soft Water Part A and B. I have well water with a PPM of anywhere between 115 and 200. I'm not sure what makes it vary so much. May be the meter. The soft water formula is rated I believe for water 200 and under. The hard water being for 200 and above. This is one this that certainly needs to be taken into consideration being and naturally the formulas are different. I got lucky and purchased the soft version and it turned out my water wasn't terribly hard after all. As far as my ladies well they seem to love it. Only mix at most 3.7 grams of each per gallon and for 60 bucks you get a fat ass bag. I know it will last me a while. At first I was misreading the feed chart and was giving about 3x too much. Once I got that on track I've seen exceptional gains. I can't really compare to other brands as all I've really used otherwise for veg is B.C. or Flora. I was going to wait longer to post my experience with the line but I seen the thread so thought I'd jump on.
 
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Tomkins2010

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#8
Anthem said:
This is pretty much the same thing MiMedGrower does from what I have read. Now once again I have to ask myself if I have it all wrong. So no PK busters and you get great results?
Click to expand...
It is my understanding that the Bloom formula has all nutrients needed for flower including PK Boosters. Guy at my grow store said I wouldn't need a single other thing than the Part A & B and Bloom. He did recommend trying out Recharge but that was it. I am a huge fan of Purple Maxx and Snow Storm. Said I could always try those on top but in small doses and keep close eye for OD.
 
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BillFarthing

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#9
When I used it, I think I was doing 2 tsp. A and 2 tsp. B for veg. 1 tbs. A 1 tbs. B for flower for 5 gallons? (My measurements are probably off, but it was 1-1.5 EC). It's pretty simple once you figure out what the plants want with your water.
 
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FourthCity

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#10
Hoosier_grower said:
What up farmers, Im currently running recirc flood&drain with the canna coco line a&b rhizo boost zyme etc love the results but would like to leave paying for and storing watered nutes in the past after this run.....So quick question any of you used front row ag yet? Comparable to jacks, veg-bloom or flora flex in a sense theyre dry salts Ik Miami mango uses them with good results and an ig buddy is killin it with em..any info/experiences opinions welcome
Click to expand...
Megacrop is another inexpensive dry nutrient, its also just a one part which helps simplify things.
 
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BillFarthing

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#11
FourthCity said:
Megacrop is another inexpensive dry nutrient, its also just a one part which helps simplify things.
Click to expand...

Megacrop is ok for soil and coco. For straight hydro, I would use Jack's Hydrofeed, or Jack's Tap for hard water, which don't leave biofilm.
 
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Tomkins2010

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#12
BillFarthing said:
When I used it, I think I was doing 2 tsp. A and 2 tsp. B for veg. 1 tbs. A 1 tbs. B for flower for 5 gallons? (My measurements are probably off, but it was 1-1.5 EC). It's pretty simple once you figure out what the plants want with your water.
Click to expand...
Exactly. I was giving about 3x too much of each at first. Turned out best route I found is doing it by weight. Now I just eye ball it. Plants definitely seem to be responding well.
 
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FourthCity

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#13
BillFarthing said:
Megacrop is ok for soil and coco. For straight hydro, I would use Jack's Hydrofeed, or Jack's Tap for hard water, which don't leave biofilm.
Click to expand...
I use it with dwc and have no issues, its designed for hydroponics and soil. Is there some reason you dont like it for hydro?
 
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BillFarthing

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#14
FourthCity said:
I use it with dwc and have no issues, its designed for hydroponics and soil. Is there some reason you dont like it for hydro?
Click to expand...

For small setups it might work fine- have you ever tried scrubbing biofilm out of an entire Undercurrent system?
 
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FourthCity

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#15
BillFarthing said:
For small setups it might work fine- have you ever tried scrubbing biofilm out of an entire Undercurrent system?
Click to expand...
I didn't know using megacrop in an undercurrent system would leave a film, the only buildup or film I get in my dwc buckets is from hard water.
 
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Hoosier_grower

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#16
Hey dudes, i appreciate the input...I spoke with whoever runs their IG acct and they said "why try it ..all 3 parts are the same cost" it kinda rubbed me the wrong way in all honesty because it was a genuine question no shade
 
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cemchris

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#17
If making the switch from bottle nutes to dry nutes do yourself a favor and focus on the ratio's of the nutes not the companies. Then it won't really matter and you can use a combo of products to hit the ratios you are seeking and potentially save you more money. At the end of the day nutes are nutes. Sources are important in some cases and there are a few bad actors but when dealing with established AG companies they are pretty much he same across the board. Not to mention most of the dry mixes from smaller companies are all made by the same people.

And if you really enjoy Canna you can just reverse it. You will find out tho when doing this that labels most of the time aren't 100% accurate (*cough* V+B) to get around Cali and Oregon's crazy labeling and you really need to just get a sample analysed to be 100% if that's what you are going for which you can get done at most colleges with an AG dept for under 100 bucks.
 
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BillFarthing

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#18
cemchris said:
If making the switch from bottle nutes to dry nutes do yourself a favor and focus on the ratio's of the nutes not the companies. Then it won't really matter and you can use a combo of products to hit the ratios you are seeking and potentially save you more money. At the end of the day nutes are nutes. Sources are important in some cases and there are a few bad actors but when dealing with established AG companies they are pretty much he same across the board. Not to mention most of the dry mixes from smaller companies are all made by the same people.

And if you really enjoy Canna you can just reverse it. You will find out tho when doing this that labels most of the time aren't 100% accurate (*cough* V+B) to get around Cali and Oregon's crazy labeling and you really need to just get a sample analysed to be 100% if that's what you are going for which you can get done at most colleges with an AG dept for under 100 bucks.
Click to expand...

Or fire up Hydrobuddy.

4-1-5 NPK, 150 ppm Ca, 50 ppm mg, 60 ppm S, 2.8 Fe plus micros.
 
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Sinmuffin

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#19
I’m currently running front row with great resaults so far. The only thing I would think with my water coming at .2-.3 ec already. And I ran it with thier updated chart. My ec was always 2.3 2.5. Im thinking I might cut the the nutes in half and give them 1.5. Would that would be a good idea?
 
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Tomkins2010

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#20
Sinmuffin said:
I’m currently running front row with great resaults so far. The only thing I would think with my water coming at .2-.3 ec already. And I ran it with thier updated chart. My ec was always 2.3 2.5. Im thinking I might cut the the nutes in half and give them 1.5. Would that would be a good idea?
Click to expand...
This EC seem extremely hight! Are you using the hard water formula? Yeah at that point an RO system might be a good option. Contact front row. Jon there is very helpful. I have his number if need.
 
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Started Mar 24, 2020
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