C
Chillers? I'm asking ;-}
So, in other words, not only am I COOLING those spaces, but I'm DEHUMIDIFYING and even CHILLING all rdwc,
Cool! (pore pun intended). How does dehumidifying work with a chill coil? Does the coil condense moister and let's it drip away into a drain? And how do you get the zones to flip? Does the ChillKing have a two zone capability built in or do you have some kind of automated valve on the chilled water?
Also, a nod to Tags. I'm watching this thread to learn what he is sharing about about LED - thanks Tags! I think I want to combind HID and LED, which will still require cooling and Tyy's way of cooling sounds great. Hope it's ok to go into cooling here...
^^^Exactly about the air exchange. That's why using CO2 with led's is great cause that is the only way you can not use fans like everyone wants. I rock a 10" to keep the air moving, just not as much power/on time when the LED's are in action. For HID it's pretty much all the time. But if I had CO2 it would allow the usual stagnation of air and used up co2 to be replenished from the tanks and thus don't have to use air exchange very much if at all during the light.
I don't have CO2 but just saying I see how/why LED's in a sealed room system with supplemented CO2 would really work well.
Floros are the best source for UVB. Led chip don't hit the right nm's and are very expensive. Stanford and NASA both use floro UVB tubes. I have been making a prototype the last couple weeks that will fit on to any hps hood(I know you're vertical). It hangs over the top and rest on the sides like pontoons.
If your not running the glass with your hps, your getting some uvb, but I like the idea of using the floros to really up the quality.
For a great full spectrum I would say CMH's. The 330w put out as much light as 600hps but no heat at all basically. There is a vertical version that's 860w's too. Since they run on mag ballast(or digitals with <60hz) they are cheap to put together. Bulb is the most expensive part.
Glad I found this, your trial is what I've been waiting for. Not brave enough to make such changes myself but very interested to see your results. All for saving energy not so keen on loosing quality or quantity. Keep us informed:-)This is lame. 4 weeks and no one even cares about this grow. I thought people would have been stoked on this setup...maybe once flower start it will get some attention.
Update #4
So here's the layout; 4 zones, each with a 12 site rdwc system, 4 x 1kW Plantmax, sealed and vented hoods, sealed and climate controlled spaces. Each space has one 8" Icebox for cooling, and another for dehuey. Each rdwc has a cooling cool. All cooling coils and Iceboxes are plumbed into one chiller system, all cooled with one ChillKing 2 Ton window mountable chiller. Two zones run for 12 hours, then flip. The chiller pulls 8.5amps @240V... when it's running. It shuts off whenever it's all caught up, cycling regularly day and night.
Thanks for posting this. A sealed room running LEDs could probably do this with 1/2 the chilling or less. I am working on a modular flip-flop LED setup similar to your own. I don't want to derail this thread but I can't find you posting about this elsewhere so if you could post or PM a link.
As for your setup tags - I have no doubt that you will work out the bugs (bad pun) and get great results. If you add CO2 to your system and your rooms are sealed I've heard you can jack your PPM up to 10,000 for 1/2 hour twice, one week apart and kill everything without damaging the plants at all. You would need to vent the space after doing this as those CO2 levels could easily kill you or any pets.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?