S
Stark
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Pictures or it’s like it never happened, btw welcome.Hi, new to the community and forums in general, got into the field about 6 months ago, and since have been playing around with LED setups since, my current HPS's run about 1K a month in energy bills. So far i got KindLED, KingLED and a bunch of other under 500$ lights, KindLED 1000W is so far the best light, at $1800 though its probably the most expensive, and even though the controls and functions are very nice, i didint think it was worth the $1200 that one can save, long story short, got Gigahertz Optics Spectral light meter, and the claims DID NOT add up, so i started experimenting with building my own lights, (im going for beam bars) 25/50/100W Leds so one beam should be around 10KW of light, dimmable of course, and I also ordered some lenses to direct the edge diodes toward the center. Im going 320-490 for the Veg and 580-830 for Flower, adding extra UV and IR on the side of the setup made a pretty good difference compared to the control. Will report progress after more parts come. Oh, and for cooling, im using watercooling on both sides, works like a dream
Yeah right and the color you are seeing is the light for my c02 medium you shouldnt talk about what you dont know
have been an optical engineer.
Dee
Not necessarily because veg cycle is a lot less critical than flower. Plants will veg easily under any light and use a lot less light in general so in my opinion red shifted is better overall. In other words I would opt for ideal lighting in flower and not worry about the light being a little warm for veg. 3500K is my choice and I grow all the way through at 3500. Opinions vary of course.Would you agree that the "optimal" Kelvin Temp would be 4250? As an "all rounder" start to finish option
I have been using a combo of 3000 and 3500 together but i agree 3500 is pretty optimal for start to finish they make cheap meters to tell you if your light is enough to low or to high. The trick to me is knowing how many watts verses the square footage of foliage .I would recommend 3500 if you want to go start to finish.
De
Yeah I am mixing 6 3000k with 6 3500k cobs and setting them around a 350W from the wall platinum... I will stagger my cobs on and off an hour or 2 before and after my time on / off to simulate sunrise.Agree 3000K is great for LED for flower.
I heard about these citizens 450nm COB a few weeks after writing this and grabbed one. I figured I would go back and correct myself. Probably will use it in the future to test effects of blue light only.COBs are typically full spectrum which is why they look white. I have never heard of a single color COB. Individual diodes are the way to go if you can afford it IMO but COBs are a safe bet.
Got any numbers or may be what chips are used? This is redicilous price for this light... No way this 250watter gets even close to 400w SE HPS...Equivalent, this unit is extremely efficient, no fans just find...these folks(led super grow.com or Google)
These guys top of the line. There are banks of white and red, blended makes equivalent in wattage
cw
If the best HID LAMPS are 50% efficient then how efficient do your leds need to be to make twice as much light? I used to be an led engineer and I am just saying nobody in the industry is capable of that, nobody. 100% efficiency?Equivalent, this unit is extremely efficient, no fans just find...these folks(led super grow.com or Google)
These guys top of the line. There are banks of white and red, blended makes equivalent in wattage
cw
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