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Fuse box keeps tripping

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chazza69
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2025
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Fuse box keeps tripping

Chazza69 Dec 29, 2025 204 Replies 15,505 Views
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Chazza69

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#41
Oldchucky said:
A 2 1/2 V surge is nothing! Somehow, you’re exceeding the rated amperage of the breaker! To determine the amperage of each appliance you’re running, you take the wattage of the appliance, which should be on a sticker and divide it by the volts, which is 220 and that will give you the amperage that the appliance is pulling! If it exceeds the rated amperage of the breaker, which should be on the breaker, then it will trip! No heater? Gas oven and water heater? Microwave? All of this shit adds up! And as stated above, 220 will give you one hell of a jolt! One of the best hair straighteners in the world!
Click to expand...
The lights originally said 2000watts led but power drain is 80w each and also if they hit each other they would trip fusebox sockets switch there flat aluminium crap im sending back for full refund i keep all switches of apart fom fridge and gas central heater unit tv router my freezers in cupboard but is running of old elec box that i had a socket fitted so that runs off its own switch.
 
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Ninjadogma

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#42
If you have 14 gage in the wall you can't just put a bigger breaker in the panel. You'd have to rewire, or risk a fire. Rough ratings 14 gage is used for 15 amp, 12 gage for 20 amp and 10 gage for 30 amp.

Until you can pull new wire through the wall you can find a 20 amp outlet in the kitchen behind the stove or a 20 amp from laundry room or garage, and run an extension cord but do not use antything lighter than a 12 gage extension cord.

The first house we bought had 50 amp service. That was a hoot, we occasionally blew the main especially around Christmas.
 
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Chazza69

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#43
pnwbluntman said:
Doesn't mean one of the connections to outlet has failed. I have a fair amount of knowledge in house wiring. If you have a thermal camera you can check to see hotspots easier
Click to expand...
The fuse in sockets seems to say 8000 then a vertical line a number 3 an then 30ma and above it says 32a which is the same fuse numbers for oven/cooker seperate switch so it has to be cheap lights
 

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Smokey0418

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#44
In your first post you mention a 4 point extension.
This is a cord that you’re plugging all 4 items into?
This is rated for all the amps you’re trying to run.
Not voltage , the draw in amps?
Possibility over drawing cord and it’s tripping the breaker?
Just a thought.
 
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pnwbluntman

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#45
If you were able to plug a couple lights into
Chazza69 said:
The fuse in sockets seems to say 8000 then a vertical line a number 3 an then 30ma and above it says 32a which is the same fuse numbers for oven/cooker seperate switch so it has to be cheap lights
Click to expand...
If you use the fridge freezer socket for a couple lights that possibly might work, or use the cooker outlet, and time it to when you are not using your stove while you are using your equipment. Or splitting the power usage between a few of those circuits. Your outlet fuse/ beaker is being overloaded by everything on that circuit.
 
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Ninjadogma

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#46
Chazza69 said:
The fuse in sockets seems to say 8000 then a vertical line a number 3 an then 30ma and above it says 32a which is the same fuse numbers for oven/cooker seperate switch so it has to be cheap lights
Click to expand...

Or there's a short inline. That's a newer panel than I've ever had to look at, might be a little sensitive to detecting GF's.
 
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Oldchucky

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#47
Chazza69 said:
The fuse in sockets seems to say 8000 then a vertical line a number 3 an then 30ma and above it says 32a which is the same fuse numbers for oven/cooker seperate switch so it has to be cheap lights
Click to expand...
Hundred amp service is plenty! Just make sure your lights aren’t on that six amp circuit! I’m surprised you’re not getting shocked with those cheap lights! Sounds like something is amiss with them! Hope the new ones work good! Hang in there!
 
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pnwbluntman

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#48
Ninjadogma said:
If you have 14 gage in the wall you can't just put a bigger breaker in the panel. You'd have to rewire, or risk a fire. Rough ratings 14 gage is used for 15 amp, 12 gage for 20 amp and 10 gage for 30 amp.

Until you can pull new wire through the wall you can find a 20 amp outlet in the kitchen behind the stove or a 20 amp from laundry room or garage, and run an extension cord but do not use antything lighter than a 12 gage extension cord.

The first house we bought had 50 amp service. That was a hoot, we occasionally blew the main especially around Christmas.
Click to expand...
Who wired your house?
And when did their house burn down?
One of the funniest memes
 
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pnwbluntman

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#49
Oldchucky said:
Hundred amp service is plenty! Just make sure your lights aren’t on that six amp circuit! I’m surprised you’re not getting shocked with those cheap lights! Sounds like something is amiss with them! Hope the new ones work good! Hang in there!
Click to expand...
In the uk, the light circuit only runs the lights with wall switches. They run almost all outlets on one circuit. I can't decide if their wiring is more efficient lol. I'm leaning towards no.
 
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pnwbluntman

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#50
I do believe that fuse/breaker that is used for a radial circuit. So it would be shared by all the common areas outlets. The only things I can think of that is easy that I feel comfortable with suggesting is splitting power from one of the larger appliance outlets
 
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pnwbluntman

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#51
And the possibility of one of the lights drivers shorting maybe. Is only one of the lights flickering? Or everything?
 
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LoveGrowingIt

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#52
Chazza69 said:
if they hit each other they would trip fusebox
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If a breaker tripped when the lights touched, then an outlet could be wired wrong. If so, it would be best not to touch both lights at the same time.
 
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Chazza69

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#53
pnwbluntman said:
And the possibility of one of the lights drivers shorting maybe. Is only one of the lights flickering? Or everything?
Click to expand...
No flickering just wall sockets blow as i said previously their aluminium based lights and when they touch they flick socket switch but its cool im getting new omega photon 720 w. Its dimmable too so i should be fine next week. Thanks all for all your help but as they say u buy dear u buy dear in the long run.
 
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pnwbluntman

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#54
Chazza69 said:
No flickering just wall sockets blow as i said previously their aluminium based lights and when they touch they flick socket switch but its cool im getting new omega photon 720 w. Its dimmable too so i should be fine next week. Thanks all for all your help but as they say u buy dear u buy dear in the long run.
Click to expand...
If anything we are always here, and can try to help in many ways. You will be happier running one big light then multiple little ones, and 720w should work just fine with your outlets power ability. Just try to spread power around for your other equipment being used to other outlets so you are not drawing to much off just one. Cheers buddy
 
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Chazza69

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#55
pnwbluntman said:
If anything we are always here, and can try to help in many ways. You will be happier running one big light then multiple little ones, and 720w should work just fine with your outlets power ability. Just try to spread power around for your other equipment being used to other outlets so you are not drawing to much off just one. Cheers buddy
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Good thing is on the omega photon 720w is dimmable and you dont have to turn up to 100% but one person said i need minimum 250watt from power source should i just go full power from seed and adjust height as my tents 2m tall by 1.2x1.2 im going for 16 plants next time in 10 litre pots
 
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pnwbluntman

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#56
Chazza69 said:
Good thing is on the omega photon 720w is dimmable and you dont have to turn up to 100% but one person said i need minimum 250watt from power source should i just go full power from seed and adjust height as my tents 2m tall by 1.2x1.2 im going for 16 plants next time in 10 litre pots
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I would start seedlings off at 25% at about 12"-16" from the top of the pot on a 24hr schedule. Once the sprout and develop I would move the light to about 16 in above. Seedlings don't need much light, you mainly want to want to keep them in a humidity dome or some way to keep the humidity a little higher till the tap root establishes and is able to draw water from the medium.
 
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Chazza69

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#57
pnwbluntman said:
I would start seedlings off at 25% at about 12"-16" from the top of the pot on a 24hr schedule. Once the sprout and develop I would move the light to about 16 in above. Seedlings don't need much light, you mainly want to want to keep them in a humidity dome or some way to keep the humidity a little higher till the tap root establishes and is able to draw water from the medium.
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Is 55% ok in grow tent or should i use my peat plugs in seedling domes ? I have ones with lights that u can switch 3 times whit red and blu and white red and blue. Im only going todo autos for shorter growtime and they say u should only put seed in main pot and grow from them due to stress of repotting which sounds pretty lame too me
 
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imgrowing

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#58
if they hit each other they would trip fusebox
if i read this correct (i've had a few) then you have some seriously wrong wiring.
i also didn't read every comment, so hopefully you got it sorted
 
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crimsonecho

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#59
Chazza69 said:
Is 55% ok in grow tent or should i use my peat plugs in seedling domes ? I have ones with lights that u can switch 3 times whit red and blu and white red and blue. Im only going todo autos for shorter growtime and they say u should only put seed in main pot and grow from them due to stress of repotting which sounds pretty lame too me
Click to expand...
i start my seedlings at 40% (edit: using the paper towel method first to germinate) and everything is fine yet to lose a seedling to low rh after 10 years of cannabis growing indoors. lost some way back when to stem rot though because of humidity domes and to root rot bc i babied them too much.
 
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Chazza69

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#60
imgrowing said:
if they hit each other they would trip fusebox
if i read this correct (i've had a few) then you have some seriously wrong wiring.
i also didn't read every comment, so hopefully you got it sorted
Click to expand...
Nah it just wouldnt stay on attaching 4th light spaced further apart but dont worry bro im gettin one good light to stop this carry on. Thank u mate from glasgow scotland
 
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Started Dec 29, 2025
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