Docgrows said:

Captain Jacks Deadbug, every 3 days for 2 solid weeks will kill them, then get on an IPM schedule to keep them gone. Neem is smelly and won’t kill like Deadbug. You can rotate with Defender and Deadbug, so they don’t develop resistance.

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Fnipernackle said:

Thanks for the fast response! I've heard good things about Spinosad products. I really should have just picked that up when I got everything else.

Do you recommend any sort of soil treatment, since I've noticed some movement there as well?

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

there is another valid option many would recommend against.

In a single instance, indoor infection scenario, i prefer pyrethrin. It kills faster, and if you use it every evening for 4 days, mites gone for good by the end of the week. Treat plants, soil surface, and tent. Move to preventative steps after that, will never have to use it again, and itll break down in a few days anyway, especially with ample light and airflow exposure. Any issues with pyrethrin come from large scale repetitive long term exposure exposure, inhalation or large amounts of concentrated aerosols (for treating like and stuff on livestock), and it is *non* carcinogenic and 100% organic.


Its just not very water soluable, so keep a sprayer shook up if you do use it. And that also means it absorbs very slowly through skin and can be washed off with any soap, even after it dries.

And dont use on flowers, even if theres ample time for it to break down, people report headaches from the flower if you do.

I also employ pyrethrins for bringing clones into my garden from outside, and other growers.

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Docgrows said:

You can water with mosquito bits if you have fungus knats, most pests are leaf dwellers such as mites and thrips. The 2 week treatment is to get any that hatch after first spray, you have to break their life cycle. Some treatments don’t kill eggs, just live ones.

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Fnipernackle said:

Cool beans. Couldn't get any Deadbug tonight, Lowe's was out. Will get some tomorrow and treat in the evening.

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

def go with dead bug over neem. But im also biased. Im very sensitive to neem, i can absolutely tell when its been used on and around flowers when i grind and smoke them.

Spinosad is great stuff, its what im using atm on my outdoor girls and indoors both. im just partial to pyrethrin for very specific pest purposes. mites indoors gone quick, and clone quarantine are the main reason id ever reach for it.

On leaves at least, plants always seem to love pyrethrin to me. Im thinking the pyrethrin they make breaking down is probably why marigolds and chrysanthemums are always so deep and dark green, even in crap soil and unfed. They have an additional nitrogen source

Mums and marigolds actually repel garden pests by generating pyrethrins

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

def go with dead bug over neem. But im also biased. Im very sensitive to neem, i can absolutely tell when its been used on and around flowers when i grind and smoke them.

Spinosad is great stuff, its what im using atm on my outdoor girls and indoors both. im just partial to pyrethrin for very specific pest purposes. mites indoors gone quick, and clone quarantine are the main reason id ever reach for it.

On leaves at least, plants always seem to love pyrethrin to me. Im thinking the pyrethrin they make breaking down is probably why marigolds and chrysanthemums are always so deep and dark green, even in crap soil and unfed. They have an additional nitrogen source

Mums and marigolds actually repel garden pests by generating pyrethrins

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Docgrows said:

You can water with mosquito bits if you have fungus knats, most pests are leaf dwellers such as mites and thrips. The 2 week treatment is to get any that hatch after first spray, you have to break their life cycle. Some treatments don’t kill eggs, just live ones.

Click to expand...

Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

there is another valid option many would recommend against.

In a single instance, indoor infection scenario, i prefer pyrethrin. It kills faster, and if you use it every evening for 4 days, mites gone for good by the end of the week. Treat plants, soil surface, and tent. Move to preventative steps after that, will never have to use it again, and itll break down in a few days anyway, especially with ample light and airflow exposure. Any issues with pyrethrin come from large scale repetitive long term exposure exposure, inhalation or large amounts of concentrated aerosols (for treating lice and stuff like that on livestock), and it is *non carcinogenic and 100% organic. It's the reason insects dont bite your wife's/mom's/granny's Mums in the fall.


Its just not very water soluble, so keep a sprayer shook up if you do use it. And that also means it absorbs very slowly through skin and can be washed off with any soap, even after it dries.

And dont use on flowers, even if theres ample time for it to break down, people report headaches from the flower if you do.



I also employ pyrethrins for bringing clones into my garden from outside, and other growers.


Pyrethrins even break down quickly into nitrogen rich substances that a plant can actually absorb through their leaves, and its not uncommon for a vegging plant to look VERY happy starting a few days after pyrethrin treatments ime.

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RootFarmer said:

Good to know about the headaches. Thanks for that. Considered a chrysanthemum mulch this year but didn't follow through. I might be glad about that.

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Thatoneguyyouknow_ said:

The mulch will be fine. Just don't spray pyrethrin on flowering cannabis lol

Rain washing thru that mulch will kill earthworm though

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RootFarmer said:

I don't bother with them anymore. By the time the root mass fills out the pot they won't stick around. The root mass on my black raspberry kush last year was crazy. When I dumped the pots to solarize the soil in early spring it was impossible to break it up. It would be easier to tear an L.A. phone book in half. Part of of the netting ended up on/in the soil. I didn't do anything about it for awhile. By the time I did, it was totally bound in the roots and wouldn't budge so I left it.

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RootFarmer said:

I don't bother with them anymore. By the time the root mass fills out the pot they won't stick around. The root mass on my black raspberry kush last year was crazy. When I dumped the pots to solarize the soil in early spring it was impossible to break it up. It would be easier to tear an L.A. phone book in half. Part of of the netting ended up on/in the soil. I didn't do anything about it for awhile. By the time I did, it was totally bound in the roots and wouldn't budge so I left it.

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Fnipernackle said:

Out of curiosity, what are your opinions on Captain Jack's Super Soap? It actually contains more spinosad than Deadbug, and also acts as an insecticidal soap. I would imagine that this helps spread the spinosad more effectively?

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Docgrows said:

I’m not familiar with the soap but will def check it out . If it has more Spinosad than Deadbug, it has to work. The soap very well may make wet leaves better…..

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Fnipernackle said:

Well, I went with Deadbug anyways. Will be doing a thorough rinse down of the plants with water in the sink to knock off some of the adults, covering the soil with plastic wrap to avoid them just ending up back on the plant, and then will treat with Deadbug, using paper towels and cotton swabs to get the nooks and crannies. Also doing a deep clean of the tent and surrounding area while the lights are out, and will be taking extra precautions from now on.

Will report back with results.

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