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Grow Room Electrical

  • Thread starter Thread starter hiboy
  • Start date Start date Mar 20, 2012
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Grow Room Electrical

hiboy Mar 20, 2012 1,406 Replies 327,269 Views
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sox

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#221
so i have a plug in my washer/dryer room that lookes like -.'
that is 240 correct?
So what i was gunna do is grab two 240 extention chords and two 240 power strips and run everrything to that...will that work or am i missing something..
Right now i have 4 different extention chords running all over my house, its annoying...2 running to 1 room would be really nice.
Any advice is appreciated.
-sox
 
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hiboy

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Jun 27, 2012
#222
sox said:
so i have a plug in my washer/dryer room that lookes like -.'
that is 240 correct?
So what i was gunna do is grab two 240 extention chords and two 240 power strips and run everrything to that...will that work or am i missing something..
Right now i have 4 different extention chords running all over my house, its annoying...2 running to 1 room would be really nice.
Any advice is appreciated.
-sox
Click to expand...
If u can find the cords and strips with correct ends it should work .Im Not a big fan of cords..... there are other ways but you will have to build it
hb
 
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sox

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#223
hiboy said:
If u can find the cords and strips with correct ends it should work .Im Not a big fan of cords..... there are other ways but you will have to build it
hb
Click to expand...

Not a big fan of chords either, but its a rental and im not going to build stuff.
What would i be lookin at to re do an upstairs room at 240?
 
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hiboy

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#224
U would install conduit from the main panel to a new sub panel or light controller thru attic if possible
Hb
 
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sox

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#225
hiboy said:
U would install conduit from the main panel to a new sub panel or light controller thru attic if possible
Hb
Click to expand...

whats the average costs for that?
 
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hiboy

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#226
sox said:
whats the average costs for that?
Click to expand...
wire is expensive. Hard to say the cost... mostly depends on length of run and amps needed, if its a straight shot from the panel labor costs might not be too bad,
hb
 
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sox

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#227
hiboy said:
wire is expensive. Hard to say the cost... mostly depends on length of run and amps needed, if its a straight shot from the panel labor costs might not be too bad,
hb
Click to expand...

for sure, looks like im stickin with the chords...
Thanks for gettin back to me.
-Sox
 
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hiboy

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#228
sox said:
for sure, looks like im stickin with the chords...
Thanks for gettin back to me.
-Sox
Click to expand...
always better to buy thicker guage cords,#12 mimimum for 20 amp breakers ,, and to keep them as short as possible. Also good to tape them out of the way, def. tripping hazards and watch out for things to pinch them such as doors,,,etc.
hb
 
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sox

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#229
hiboy said:
always better to buy thicker guage cords,#12 mimimum for 20 amp breakers ,, and to keep them as short as possible. Also good to tape them out of the way, def. tripping hazards and watch out for things to pinch them such as doors,,,etc.
hb
Click to expand...

for sure, thanks bro!
 
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rick ratlin

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#230
Hey hiboy, thanks for all the free electrical information. I'm setting up a new room, and I've got some new equipment. Ideal air mini split and ideal air dehumidifier. They both need to be connected to a direct line, both on a 15 amp breaker. Also I need to add two 15 amp breakers for my new 1000 watt digs. I would rather run two 15 amp breakers for the lights since I have two 120 v high heat cut offs, with only one plug on each. From the panel to the final location of the 1k light receptacles will be roughly 45 feet. The humidifier will be around 50 -55 feet. The a/c mini split will be outside around 55-60 feet. I have 14-2 romex to run with. Plenty of space in the main breaker panel.
The questions I have are concerning the length of the runs. I've heard you need to run 12-2 at lengths over 75 feet.
Also, this install will be a temporary one. I need to be able to easily remove all the wiring when I move, plus I have no desire to cut into the drywall. So, I plan on running the romex up through the attic and then have it run to the room. ( should I tack the wire to the rafters, or run it along the base of the attic?) I will run the romex through the ceiling, what is the best way to seal the hole I run it through, and do I need to run it through smurf tube at this point, and what size? When I mount my single gang box can I mount it "open air" as in not to the main stud of the wall. Do you prefer pvc boxes, or metal for these applications?
I guess that last paragraph means what is the best way to mount my boxes and run my wire through the ceiling without butchering the ceiling and wall?
I've read a lot of your answers, and I realize this is a long one, but I just wanted to see what you thought of this particular set up. Thanks Hiboy!
 
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W

wooitzme

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#231
Hey Hiboy,

I have two 100 amp high leg breakers for two 12 light rooms. In each (12) 1000W light room I am running 6 ecoplus fans, 1 60 pint dehumidifier, 1 sentinel cppm-4 controller and 10 burner, 2 little giant pumps and 3 ecoplus 1056 pumps, and a 4 ton HVAC. Each of the 1000W are plugged into a 220V plug to lower the amperage. I am curious, am I overloading my panel? I calculated that I am not but wanted to know for sure. Also, would I be overkilling if I added an additional 18,000 BTU mini split AC? Please let me know. Thanks in advance!!
 
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Olyver

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#232
Sounds like your getting close to the maximum ampacity of your panel. Not sure what you're using for a lighting controller, but if you can stagger your lights on, say 2 at a time, that will alleviate the initial surge from your ballast powering on. Can you get a clamp-on ammeter, then you can see the amperage draw when you have all your equipment on. Check the main power feed and see if it's a little warm.
 
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joehank

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#233
Hello Hiboy,

I am looking to build my own " trigger box" to control a high amp draw device, in my case a space heater. I cannot plug the heater directly into my controller because it only can handle 15 amps. I need to know what type of contactor ( or relay) i need to buy- single pole single throw SPST, double pole single throw DPST, or double pole double throw DPDT ? I know the coil has to be 120vac since that's what the controller puts out. Thanks
 
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hiboy

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Jul 20, 2012
#234
rick ratlin said:
Hey hiboy, thanks for all the free electrical information. I'm setting up a new room, and I've got some new equipment. Ideal air mini split and ideal air dehumidifier. They both need to be connected to a direct line, both on a 15 amp breaker. Also I need to add two 15 amp breakers for my new 1000 watt digs. I would rather run two 15 amp breakers for the lights since I have two 120 v high heat cut offs, with only one plug on each. From the panel to the final location of the 1k light receptacles will be roughly 45 feet. The humidifier will be around 50 -55 feet. The a/c mini split will be outside around 55-60 feet. I have 14-2 romex to run with. Plenty of space in the main breaker panel.
The questions I have are concerning the length of the runs. I've heard you need to run 12-2 at lengths over 75 feet.
Also, this install will be a temporary one. I need to be able to easily remove all the wiring when I move, plus I have no desire to cut into the drywall. So, I plan on running the romex up through the attic and then have it run to the room. ( should I tack the wire to the rafters, or run it along the base of the attic?) I will run the romex through the ceiling, what is the best way to seal the hole I run it through, and do I need to run it through smurf tube at this point, and what size? When I mount my single gang box can I mount it "open air" as in not to the main stud of the wall. Do you prefer pvc boxes, or metal for these applications?
I guess that last paragraph means what is the best way to mount my boxes and run my wire through the ceiling without butchering the ceiling and wall?
I've read a lot of your answers, and I realize this is a long one, but I just wanted to see what you thought of this particular set up. Thanks Hiboy!
Click to expand...
No ur ok with 14-2.
only after a 100 feeet u have volt drop.
caulking works well to seal holes. or silicon. or fire caulk if ur coming from a garage.
or drywall mud even

hb
 
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hiboy

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#235
wooitzme said:
Hey Hiboy,

I have two 100 amp high leg breakers for two 12 light rooms. In each (12) 1000W light room I am running 6 ecoplus fans, 1 60 pint dehumidifier, 1 sentinel cppm-4 controller and 10 burner, 2 little giant pumps and 3 ecoplus 1056 pumps, and a 4 ton HVAC. Each of the 1000W are plugged into a 220V plug to lower the amperage. I am curious, am I overloading my panel? I calculated that I am not but wanted to know for sure. Also, would I be overkilling if I added an additional 18,000 BTU mini split AC? Please let me know. Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...
explain ur high leg breakers.... do u mean delta on a 3 phase?
ur fans are minimal draw, so is ur dehumid, and burner and pumps. U have to worry about ur a/c and lights mostly
hb
 
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hiboy

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#236
joehank said:
Hello Hiboy,

I am looking to build my own " trigger box" to control a high amp draw device, in my case a space heater. I cannot plug the heater directly into my controller because it only can handle 15 amps. I need to know what type of contactor ( or relay) i need to buy- single pole single throw SPST, double pole single throw DPST, or double pole double throw DPDT ? I know the coil has to be 120vac since that's what the controller puts out. Thanks
Click to expand...
ur on the right track . a lightin contactor will work for u, 20 amps single pole single throw will work . there is no load on ur controller since ur only activating ur relay.
h b
 
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jkbeing

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Jul 21, 2012
#237
Great thread,
If my 1000w runs roughly 10amps @ 120v. Then if I run it @ 240v it is 5amps, but is it still 10amps against my 100amp main?

thanks Hiboy
 
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Botanikos

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Jul 23, 2012
#238
My first indoor grow and I've just got my flowering room ready to go here's my setup:
1000 w 120v HPS
420 w 115v dehumidifier
?w ?v co2 generator
?w ?v large a/c unit (20000 btu no too sure)
?w ?v CHHC-4 controller
fan

in the same room
I have a large t-5 8 bulb
fan

I have no knowledge on electrical aspect but I thought I'd start here... Ran the system and it tripped, unplugged everything and reset the breaker and I'm thinking I'll have to get a guy to make this work. But don't know where to start any advice would be appreciated. If you need more info I'll do my best to provide.
 
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ttystikk

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Jul 23, 2012
#239
Botanikos said:
My first indoor grow and I've just got my flowering room ready to go here's my setup:
1000 w 120v HPS
420 w 115v dehumidifier
?w ?v co2 generator
?w ?v large a/c unit (20000 btu no too sure)
?w ?v CHHC-4 controller
fan

in the same room
I have a large t-5 8 bulb
fan

I have no knowledge on electrical aspect but I thought I'd start here... Ran the system and it tripped, unplugged everything and reset the breaker and I'm thinking I'll have to get a guy to make this work. But don't know where to start any advice would be appreciated. If you need more info I'll do my best to provide.
Click to expand...

Please tell me you read the instructions with your Sentinel controller and didn't plug anything into it that requires more than 15 amps@120v? If you did, you might have fried it.
 
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Botanikos

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#240
ttystikk said:
Please tell me you read the instructions with your Sentinel controller and didn't plug anything into it that requires more than 15 amps@120v? If you did, you might have fried it.
Click to expand...


Rechecked the breaker and it's fine, checked the controller and its working, I believe that I just over loaded the breaker to make it trip, but then again I'm not too sure. I ran the A/C unit for the veg room before flipping and never had an issue, but now I have that HPS light going and the off and on A/C unit, the dehumidifier and the CO2 generator.
 
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Thread info

Replies 1,406
Views 327,269
Started Mar 20, 2012
Latest post Mar 3, 2024
Starter hiboy
Forum Growroom Design & Setup

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