KitsapGrapeApe
- 464
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Hello! Thanks for all the great info in this thread.
I have a question. I'm currently renting a house with 100 amp main service, and I want to set up a grow that uses about 75 amps at 100% max capacity. What would be my best option for increasing power? Do you have an idea about how much it would cost to have the power company upgrade the service to 200 amps? Are there any kinds of hacks for this?
i've been looking and looking on google i'm not really finding anything that makes sense to me. i'm looking at a spot with 200 amp 3 phase 277v/480v power. should i be looking at amps the same way i would be if i was setting up a garden in my garage with a mix of 120/240 in terms of amps?
i wouldn't have any interest in buying ballast that run on 277/480v power since i already have plenty of 240 ballast.
Simple answer is no problem using your current ballasts.
More info here:
http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/single-phase-power-vs-three-phase-power
Hope this helps neighbor, good luck.
WC
don't know where west coaster is going with that Most grow ballast are 120/240 some are 120/208/240/277 . Most industrial ballast are 120/208/240/277. This warehouse should have a step-down transformer from 277/480 to 120/208 there is no 240 in three phase power.So unless the step down transformer is big enough and the 120/208 sub panel is open you could run your current ballast at 120otherwise invest in more ballast:)I lived in Kitsap County a year ago, Hello Washington Peeps!West coster if you know something I don't I'm all ears!
I assumed his ballasts could be switched internally as I have never seen one that didn't accommodate any of the voltages you mentioned above.
Other than that, you most likely know way more about it than I do it appears, thanks for chiming in.
WC
Yeah, power company said to call an electrician. They also said that the house probably has 200 amp drop coming from the street (looked like a 200amp meter) and likely just needs a new main breaker. (definitely only a 100) Electrical rates look like about $40/hr. and the estimate I saw said it should take about 3 hours, plus materials. I know a couple of contractors who are in the same game, so I'm going to check with them, but I'm hoping it won't cost me too much.
where are you located?Yeah, power company said to call an electrician. They also said that the house probably has 200 amp drop coming from the street (looked like a 200amp meter) and likely just needs a new main breaker. (definitely only a 100) Electrical rates look like about $40/hr. and the estimate I saw said it should take about 3 hours, plus materials. I know a couple of contractors who are in the same game, so I'm going to check with them, but I'm hoping it won't cost me too much.
Thats rated for 20 amps, but code says that it should never be loaded more than 80 % so you should run no more than 20 x .8 = 16 amps.how many amps can I safely draw out of a 12/2 wire?
For derating purposes, #12 90*C wire can handle 30 amps. But in general, especially seeing people's home projects, 20 amps. Except for very special circumstances you can not connect to an overcurrent protection device greater than 20 amps. Any continuous load (more than 3 hours at a time) should not be loaded more than 80%. So if you're talking about pumps being run intermittently than 20 amps is fine. Lighting running 12+ hours shouldn't be loaded more than 16 amps on #12. Ampacity ratings are based on the conductors ability to disperse heat. So open conductors (such as those supplying homes) are permitted to carry higher loads. And conductors where there are 3 or more current carrying conductors in the same raceway need to be derated because there's is less ability to disipate heat. Just as well with conductors in environments where the conductors will be in 85*F or more ambient temps. Also, be careful with any conductors in the vicinity of ballasts, lamps or sockets. Generally these will need to be rated 105* C.
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