Grow Room Electrical

KitsapGrapeApe · Apr 1, 2013

i've been looking and looking on google i'm not really finding anything that makes sense to me. i'm looking at a spot with 200 amp 3 phase 277v/480v power. should i be looking at amps the same way i would be if i was setting up a garden in my garage with a mix of 120/240 in terms of amps?

i wouldn't have any interest in buying ballast that run on 277/480v power since i already have plenty of 240 ballast.

WestCoaster · Apr 2, 2013

Simple answer is no problem using your current ballasts.

More info here:

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/single-phase-power-vs-three-phase-power

Hope this helps neighbor, good luck.

WC

AlterNation · Apr 4, 2013

Hello! Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

I have a question. I'm currently renting a house with 100 amp main service, and I want to set up a grow that uses about 75 amps at 100% max capacity. What would be my best option for increasing power? Do you have an idea about how much it would cost to have the power company upgrade the service to 200 amps? Are there any kinds of hacks for this?

washburn4life · Apr 4, 2013

AlterNation said:
Hello! Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

I have a question. I'm currently renting a house with 100 amp main service, and I want to set up a grow that uses about 75 amps at 100% max capacity. What would be my best option for increasing power? Do you have an idea about how much it would cost to have the power company upgrade the service to 200 amps? Are there any kinds of hacks for this?

upgrading to a 200Amp service is standard practice I think it will run $2000-$3000 for a contractor to do the work with a new over head drop.

AlterNation · Apr 4, 2013

Yeah, power company said to call an electrician. They also said that the house probably has 200 amp drop coming from the street (looked like a 200amp meter) and likely just needs a new main breaker. (definitely only a 100) Electrical rates look like about $40/hr. and the estimate I saw said it should take about 3 hours, plus materials. I know a couple of contractors who are in the same game, so I'm going to check with them, but I'm hoping it won't cost me too much.

washburn4life · Apr 4, 2013

KitsapGrapeApe said:
i've been looking and looking on google i'm not really finding anything that makes sense to me. i'm looking at a spot with 200 amp 3 phase 277v/480v power. should i be looking at amps the same way i would be if i was setting up a garden in my garage with a mix of 120/240 in terms of amps?

i wouldn't have any interest in buying ballast that run on 277/480v power since i already have plenty of 240 ballast.

I dont know where west coaster is going with that Most grow ballest are 120/240 some are 120/208/240/277 . Most industral ballest are 120/208/240/277. This wherehouse should have a step-down transphormer from 277/480 to 120/208 there is no 240 in three phase power.

So unless the step down transphormer is big enough and the 120/208 sub pannel is open you could run your current ballest at 120

otherwise invest in more ballest:)

I lived in Kitsap County a year ago, Hello Washington Peeps!

West coster if you know something I dont im all ears!

washburn4life · Apr 4, 2013

WestCoaster said:
Simple answer is no problem using your current ballasts.

More info here:

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/single-phase-power-vs-three-phase-power

Hope this helps neighbor, good luck.

WC

dont know where west coaster is going with that Most grow ballest are 120/240 some are 120/208/240/277 . Most industral ballest are 120/208/240/277. This wherehouse should have a step-down transphormer from 277/480 to 120/208 there is no 240 in three phase power.

So unless the step down transphormer is big enough and the 120/208 sub pannel is open you could run your current ballest at 120

otherwise invest in more ballest:)

I lived in Kitsap County a year ago, Hello Washington Peeps!

West coster if you know something I dont im all ears!

WestCoaster · Apr 5, 2013

washburn4life said:
don't know where west coaster is going with that Most grow ballast are 120/240 some are 120/208/240/277 . Most industrial ballast are 120/208/240/277. This warehouse should have a step-down transformer from 277/480 to 120/208 there is no 240 in three phase power.

So unless the step down transformer is big enough and the 120/208 sub panel is open you could run your current ballast at 120

otherwise invest in more ballast:)

I lived in Kitsap County a year ago, Hello Washington Peeps!

West coster if you know something I don't I'm all ears!

I assumed his ballasts could be switched internally as I have never seen one that didn't accommodate any of the voltages you mentioned above.

Other than that, you most likely know way more about it than I do it appears, thanks for chiming in.

WC

KitsapGrapeApe · Apr 5, 2013

Thanks for the I go guys, yeah I already have a bunch of digital ballasts so I'm not interested in buy new ballast on top of everything else I would need to buy to get her going. Kinda bmbed oh well back to the hunt.

washburn4life · Apr 5, 2013

WestCoaster said:
I assumed his ballasts could be switched internally as I have never seen one that didn't accommodate any of the voltages you mentioned above.

Other than that, you most likely know way more about it than I do it appears, thanks for chiming in.

WC

Very true if you open up a coil n' cap ballest it most likely has 120/208/240/277 taps I am not sure about digis though.

Digital ballast have a chip in them that will sense the incoming voltage. they will give you a range of voltages they might do 277 but you would have to void the warranty by opening it up just to check it out or maybe it says in your manual .

Kitsap!

If your getting into a wherehouse and need an electrician to wire it to code PM me I live in central WA now but lived on the peninsula and would like an excuse to visit

washburn4life · Apr 5, 2013

AlterNation said:
Yeah, power company said to call an electrician. They also said that the house probably has 200 amp drop coming from the street (looked like a 200amp meter) and likely just needs a new main breaker. (definitely only a 100) Electrical rates look like about $40/hr. and the estimate I saw said it should take about 3 hours, plus materials. I know a couple of contractors who are in the same game, so I'm going to check with them, but I'm hoping it won't cost me too much.

It should take longer then 3 hrs. unless its really easy and the electrican is a boss! lol

If im doing a side job, PANEL SWAP I charge $600-$1000 Parts and Labor I live in WA and pay rates are higher here then most the nation.

most contractors charge $90-$120/hr. and will make a 60-100% margin on parts standard busness.

most side job electricians charge $45-$75 hr. and would make a small margin on parts

hope that helps!

fishwhistle · Apr 16, 2013

AlterNation said:
Yeah, power company said to call an electrician. They also said that the house probably has 200 amp drop coming from the street (looked like a 200amp meter) and likely just needs a new main breaker. (definitely only a 100) Electrical rates look like about $40/hr. and the estimate I saw said it should take about 3 hours, plus materials. I know a couple of contractors who are in the same game, so I'm going to check with them, but I'm hoping it won't cost me too much.

where are you located?

Underground · Apr 17, 2013

$40/hr seems like real cheap money. I am a Master Electrician. When I owned my own business I was charging $65/hr and I was on the lower end of average. When I do side work I charge $50/hr. It all depends on the person. Many people I do not charge any mark up on material. Most others I charge a 25% mark up. Which is almost nothing in this industry. For whatever reason, people like to chesel electricians. Plumber charge 100% or more and their rates are 25% higher too.

KUSHPILES · Apr 17, 2013

I just had to dick around with installing a new 300 amp service. The toughest part was getting BC Hydro to set up a time they could kill the power for the electrician to get in and do his work. Costed about 1300 bucks for the electrician ( we had previously purchased all parts needed).

This was with a huge messup as well that took about 4 hours to take care of. Turns out the roots from a big tree in the front of the property grew through the casing that the power main was ran through, so the Hydro guys couldn't just fish the new 300 amp wire through. They had to call the gas guys in before they could dig anything up and ahh man.. NOT stealthy haha.

Anyway side track there- power service upgrades are very common and a good idea if you are on running hot..

5ecret 5quirrel · Apr 19, 2013

Wow great thread! here’s my setup, top row of sockets get less power and the bottom sockets get more power. Yeah i need help. I’m running 15 x 600w HIDs digital ballast.

SodaLicious · Apr 19, 2013

how many amps can I safely draw out of a 12/2 wire?

KUSHPILES · Apr 19, 2013

SodaLicious said:
how many amps can I safely draw out of a 12/2 wire?

Thats rated for 20 amps, but code says that it should never be loaded more than 80 % so you should run no more than 20 x .8 = 16 amps.

Underground · Apr 19, 2013

For derating purposes, #12 90*C wire can handle 30 amps. But in general, especially seeing people's home projects, 20 amps. Except for very special circumstances you can not connect to an overcurrent protection device greater than 20 amps. Any continuous load (more than 3 hours at a time) should not be loaded more than 80%. So if you're talking about pumps being run intermittently than 20 amps is fine. Lighting running 12+ hours shouldn't be loaded more than 16 amps on #12. Ampacity ratings are based on the conductors ability to disperse heat. So open conductors (such as those supplying homes) are permitted to carry higher loads. And conductors where there are 3 or more current carrying conductors in the same raceway need to be derated because there's is less ability to disipate heat. Just as well with conductors in environments where the conductors will be in 85*F or more ambient temps. Also, be careful with any conductors in the vicinity of ballasts, lamps or sockets. Generally these will need to be rated 105* C.

SodaLicious · Apr 20, 2013

Underground said:
For derating purposes, #12 90*C wire can handle 30 amps. But in general, especially seeing people's home projects, 20 amps. Except for very special circumstances you can not connect to an overcurrent protection device greater than 20 amps. Any continuous load (more than 3 hours at a time) should not be loaded more than 80%. So if you're talking about pumps being run intermittently than 20 amps is fine. Lighting running 12+ hours shouldn't be loaded more than 16 amps on #12. Ampacity ratings are based on the conductors ability to disperse heat. So open conductors (such as those supplying homes) are permitted to carry higher loads. And conductors where there are 3 or more current carrying conductors in the same raceway need to be derated because there's is less ability to disipate heat. Just as well with conductors in environments where the conductors will be in 85*F or more ambient temps. Also, be careful with any conductors in the vicinity of ballasts, lamps or sockets. Generally these will need to be rated 105* C.

Thank you so much for your detailed response.

Underground · Apr 20, 2013

These are two derating tables you may find useful

Grow Room Electrical

Grow Room Electrical

KitsapGrapeApe

WestCoaster

AlterNation

washburn4life

AlterNation

washburn4life

washburn4life

WestCoaster

KitsapGrapeApe

washburn4life

washburn4life

fishwhistle

Underground

KUSHPILES

5ecret 5quirrel

SodaLicious

KUSHPILES

Underground

SodaLicious

Underground

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