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Grow Room Electrical

  • Thread starter Thread starter hiboy
  • Start date Start date Mar 20, 2012
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Grow Room Electrical

hiboy Mar 20, 2012 1,406 Replies 327,128 Views
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hiboy

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#21
crom said:
This is the portable GFCI I mentioned that I connect my extension cord to the wall with. Figured it was a last resort pop before it hits the house. My concern is really to not need to mess with a new homes electrical much, when moved into. So I'll use a gas dryer, and save the outlet for a tent and maybe a different outlet or something easily converted to a heavy duty set up or something. I'm not trying to run 10 lights or anything, and I could give you a list of stuff getting powered to work the amps and whatever. http://t0.invalid.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSQZcm1BMGUi--qeqzlucofQ5CNUrcsuIcIj7-fK6k2mXHHiG1nWhat's a good start point, the list of equipment? Shall I add up something instead and give you the info needed? Good thing is one tent runs t5s and 1 400wMH. The bloom room has the 600w. I don't run A/C. I use 6" extractors for both, on thermostats. Each has a full size wall mount osc fan, along with smaller clip on fans here and there. Only one air pump and one pump. It's fairly efficient actually! Now that I reflect on the amount of electronics used.

So the power strip is rated lower then say a "heavy duty" one? I am not very educated as to what the limits and codes and stuff are for different homes and their respective sockets. I also don't want to have to have a grip of extension cords running from room to room. As long as they are, each tent, on a different breaker I should be good? Like "room A" outlet powers one tent, and "room B" supplies the outlet for the other? Use the dryer outlet for the bloom room, or whichever uses the most amps? Can you shoot me a link that has example pictures of what you can help me design? What's a ball park estimate for cost? Just want to see if I can even afford to take on this project. I wanted to ask before I spent the money on heavy duty extension cords. Thanks for the help HB!

Cheers,
Crom
Click to expand...
Looking at ur equipment, not much power is actually needed. Your at 1000 watts of h.i.d. lighting which could run at 120v or 240v, and your other equipment that must run on 120v- fluorescents, pumps and fans.
So you could have that dryer outlet run your h.i.d. lighting if you have tripping problems by just using the wall outlets. You have 2 tents, but are they in the same room? or different. See what size breaker is at your panel that is in your room or rooms and then we can figure out what to do. Also once you locate the breaker, flip it off and see if there is other outlets that are on in the area. This will show what kind of circuits and how many are available there
Some power strips can trip if they are not rated for your amps. Some even say on them the watts or amps allowed
hb
 
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crom

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#22
Nice I need to do some homework now. Thanks for the great info Hiboy! Both tents are in the same room. I don't have issues with the breaker getting thrown, just the strip. It's not the most expensive strip since it's the only thing plugged into it. I'll check out the breaker and all that good stuff in the morning. The other good thing is I run each tent on the Gas Lantern Routine scheduling of (bloom)12/12 with each week dropping a half hour till week 8 then sustain, the veg/mother/nursery tent is on the GSL schedule as well, but this timer is set for the opposite 12 hour period(daytime)8am-8pm, bloom room is 8pm-8am. This is why I considered using a flip flop and up the 400w to 600w. So my point is I'm not running both HIDs at the same time, helps yeah? Now would 240v save money on electric bills? Especially if I'm running both HIDs on that dryer outlet. Now is that dryer outlet over kill for my situation? Maybe I should just invest in some bad ass extension cords and power strips? Any recommendations on brand or whatever? Again thanks so much for your help on this! Anyone else have a similar issue?

Crom
 
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tattoojim

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#23
hiboy.. i just wanted to pop in and say the new ballast has been on two days at 20/4. that ballast is running cooler than the one thats still on 120..thanks for your help
 
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hiboy

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#24
crom said:
Nice I need to do some homework now. Thanks for the great info Hiboy! Both tents are in the same room. I don't have issues with the breaker getting thrown, just the strip. It's not the most expensive strip since it's the only thing plugged into it. I'll check out the breaker and all that good stuff in the morning. The other good thing is I run each tent on the Gas Lantern Routine scheduling of (bloom)12/12 with each week dropping a half hour till week 8 then sustain, the veg/mother/nursery tent is on the GSL schedule as well, but this timer is set for the opposite 12 hour period(daytime)8am-8pm, bloom room is 8pm-8am. This is why I considered using a flip flop and up the 400w to 600w. So my point is I'm not running both HIDs at the same time, helps yeah? Now would 240v save money on electric bills? Especially if I'm running both HIDs on that dryer outlet. Now is that dryer outlet over kill for my situation? Maybe I should just invest in some bad ass extension cords and power strips? Any recommendations on brand or whatever? Again thanks so much for your help on this! Anyone else have a similar issue?
belkin makes awesome power strips.
heavy duty and all metal. nice.
dryer outlet is overkill. specially if its alot of work to get it going
12 guage cords is what to use
hb
Crom
Click to expand...
 
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hiboy

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#25
tattoojim said:
hiboy.. i just wanted to pop in and say the new ballast has been on two days at 20/4. that ballast is running cooler than the one thats still on 120..thanks for your help
Click to expand...
Nice one,
looks like the other was messed up. interesting on the cooler temps with the 240v. bet u had a sigh of relief plugging it in and seeing that light start to brighten up
hb
 
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tattoojim

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#26
still worried about plugging the other one in..lol..and there is at least 5+ degrees differnce in them.. better flow = less resistance rite bro
am learning tho
 
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crom

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#27
Here are some shots of the breakers. Maybe you can decipher the codes lol I do see that it's a 100 amp box, right? The labeling on the box aren't very accurate and the writing is only for a few breakers not the whole box. Like all boxes I've seen. I can go and turn stuff off and see what's what, but not at the current moment. Do these pix help?
 
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hiboy

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#28
crom said:
Here are some shots of the breakers. Maybe you can decipher the codes lol I do see that it's a 100 amp box, right? The labeling on the box aren't very accurate and the writing is only for a few breakers not the whole box. Like all boxes I've seen. I can go and turn stuff off and see what's what, but not at the current moment. Do these pix help?
View attachment 204145View attachment 204146View attachment 204147
Click to expand...
Wondering if that sticker lower left that says main is accurate meaning the 50 amp double breaker is indeed ur main. Hard to say unless u pull the front off. Even though the panel is rated for 100 amps the main breaker must be a 100 amps . The panel is a federal pacific, not great but will do the job. Not sure if you have space for more breakers ,,,, even though there are k.o. spaces in the middle, it doenst appear that they are made for breakers. Thats how they keep it to 100 amps and not 125 or more, by not allowing u to overload it
First thing is to check under the hood and see whats goin on in there. IF you can take a pic of it open i should be able to see whats goin on
hb
 
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BNUTTHEHUT

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#29
Hiboy, I need to add a 50Amp single pole to my panel. My panel is a mid 80's westinghouse and it says to use Bryant breakers. But I cant find them. Can I use a 1" 50amp interchangeable breaker by GE? And can I use 8ga copper? Its only about a 25ft run. I have a bunch of #8/4 laying around that I wanted to use, I would just nut the other hot. I would just put in the 2 pole 240v but all my ballasts are lumatek( the older style) an I guess they wont run on 240. When they die off I was going to switch the breaker over.
 
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fishwhistle

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#30
damn i feel like my spot is all star wars modern after looking at some of these older panels,what the hell is that screw that says raise for on the top of croms panel hiboy?
 
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hiboy

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#31
BNUTTHEHUT said:
Hiboy, I need to add a 50Amp single pole to my panel. My panel is a mid 80's westinghouse and it says to use Bryant breakers. But I cant find them. Can I use a 1" 50amp interchangeable breaker by GE? And can I use 8ga copper? Its only about a 25ft run. I have a bunch of #8/4 laying around that I wanted to use, I would just nut the other hot. I would just put in the 2 pole 240v but all my ballasts are lumatek( the older style) an I guess they wont run on 240. When they die off I was going to switch the breaker over.
Click to expand...
U can use murray breakers, they are cheap and everybody has them. Most popular panel out there right now. 8 guage is rated for 40 amps, thats the code so if i said something diff. it would be wrong, chances of something going wrong with it is low.
Whats ur plan with the big breaker,
the ballasts should be protected by a lower amp breaker, not all of them on 1 line.
hb
 
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hiboy

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#32
fishwhistle said:
damn i feel like my spot is all star wars modern after looking at some of these older panels,what the hell is that screw that says raise for on the top of croms panel hiboy?
Click to expand...
It is an old panel, ive seen worse,, pushmatic or bulldogs where u push on and push off, not good.
That raise screw actually raises or lowers the inner panel from the outer panel for correct spacing when installing in different depths of drywall, etc.
hb
 
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BNUTTHEHUT

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#33
Thanks, I just wanted a large breaker just in case. I will just put in the 40amp. Wire is crazy expensive.
 
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hiboy

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#34
BNUTTHEHUT said:
Thanks, I just wanted a large breaker just in case. I will just put in the 40amp. Wire is crazy expensive.
Click to expand...
Your right on with wire costs, ridiculous with all precious metals.
Home Depot beat all my supply house prices, they buy large quantities for all their stores, small local shops just cant compete
hb
 
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ttystikk

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#35
Get used to high commodity prices, the powers that be in this country decided that the best way out of recession was to make sure american labor was cost comptetitive with foreign and they did this by not giving raises and devaluing our currency. Works great if you happen to be GE or GM, but a pretty raw deal if you're just a Joe trying to feed your family. you don't like this state of affairs? VOTE! Early and often, in primaries, and insist that Govt has a responsibility to all its people, not just the ones making six figures or more.

Not meaning to thread jack, but commodity prices and the overall economy are intimately related to what politicians think they can get away with on behalf of their constituents. If we were rolling in cash in this country, would we take the risk to grow like this to try and make a living?
 
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hiboy

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#36
ttystikk said:
Get used to high commodity prices, the powers that be in this country decided that the best way out of recession was to make sure american labor was cost comptetitive with foreign and they did this by not giving raises and devaluing our currency. Works great if you happen to be GE or GM, but a pretty raw deal if you're just a Joe trying to feed your family. you don't like this state of affairs? VOTE! Early and often, in primaries, and insist that Govt has a responsibility to all its people, not just the ones making six figures or more.

Not meaning to thread jack, but commodity prices and the overall economy are intimately related to what politicians think they can get away with on behalf of their constituents. If we were rolling in cash in this country, would we take the risk to grow like this to try and make a living?
Click to expand...
I pretty much keep my prices the same, bump it up a little due to the costs of things.
Were going to war again, its only a matter of time. Thats another way to get out of a recession or improve the situation. Meanwhile i'll try to pay the bills, feed the kids, feed the dogs, and dream of the lottery
hb
 
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ttystikk

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#37
hiboy said:
I pretty much keep my prices the same, bump it up a little due to the costs of things.
Were going to war again, its only a matter of time. Thats another way to get out of a recession or improve the situation. Meanwhile i'll try to pay the bills, feed the kids, feed the dogs, and dream of the lottery
hb
Click to expand...

World War Two only solved tyhat era's economic crisis by creating pent up demand for consumer goods- this happened because the nation's factories were commandeered to build war materiel for 3 years. The idea that deficit spending did it alone is as suspect as the idea that spending hundreds of billions on another war of adventure will fix our economy now. Did you see an economic boost from the wars in Iraq or Afghanistan? Not unless you were a gov't contractor, I'll bet!
 
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ttystikk

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#38
On a more topical note, I wired a 6 ga. cable and a 50 amp 3 way breaker to cover the load from 8800 watts of lighting and attendant ballasts. Is this on the money, overkill, or did I make a mistake I need to address?
 
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fishwhistle

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#39
Bnutt,dont know where your at but when i was shopping wire Walters electrical came out on top for wire pricing for me,3 cuts of 1/0 wire 250' long $1789.00,OUCH.Like hiboy says ive noticed home depot has a deal that says they will beat others prices by 10% but alot of times thats other chains not specialty houses.Good luck bro,fw
 
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hiboy

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#40
ttystikk said:
On a more topical note, I wired a 6 ga. cable and a 50 amp 3 way breaker to cover the load from 8800 watts of lighting and attendant ballasts. Is this on the money, overkill, or did I make a mistake I need to address?
Click to expand...
As u know def. not overloading. I dont like to put excessive quantities of ballasts on large breakers, if theres a short all will shut off, so usually i have multiple feeds.
hb
 
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Replies 1,406
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Started Mar 20, 2012
Latest post Mar 3, 2024
Starter hiboy
Forum Growroom Design & Setup

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