Grow Room Electrical

ttystikk · Apr 10, 2012

GanjaAL said:
Hey brother... I ran a rail system on a pully for my lights. They are adjust a wings and was wondering is there any kind of insolation for the cords as the rail is metal and I am sure there will be heat transfer... can you suggest anything?

Thanks and will post some pics when I get the chance. I got the hand crank gator one.

Unless the cables holding up the adjust-a-wings are very short (an inch or two), they'll radiate whatever heat they pick up from the shades long before they transfer it to the rail. Even if the rail does get warm- more likely a result of radiant heat from the back of the a-wings than anything else- I don't see how that's going to be a problem.

ttystikk · Apr 10, 2012

hiboy said:
Yep i totally agree. Once i get all my projects sorted out maybe i'll get that UC going.
hb

Straight up, I got a ridiculous deal; for my 2 ton chillking, seven 8" Ice Boxes, a 1/2hp Flotec pump and a Nextgen propane CO2 burner I ended up trading away, I paid $1650, which included shipping. That was just not to be passed up!

I probably spent another couple hundred altogether on Pex manifolds, fittings, valves, hoses, clamps and mounting brackets. The reservoir was free; go to any Great Harvest Bread company store and they'll be more than glad to give you their old food grade ceramic coated 55 gallon drums. You'll just want to clean the 1/2" of crusted honey out of the bottom, lol.

Skinned knuckles and brain damage during assembly? Priceless... o_O

BlueBlood · Apr 10, 2012

The reservoir was free; go to any Great Harvest Bread company store and they'll be more than glad to give you their old food grade ceramic coated 55 gallon drums.

That's solid gold right thar, thanks!

GanjaAL · Apr 10, 2012

yea the wings are mounted directly to the rail itself which I hope there is not that much heat transfer from the back of the wings... though the back is not touching the rings are still touching and I believe they are aluminum which is a great heat conductor. I will have to get a temp gun once they have juice to see what temps they put out. I have to run new cords as the originals were to short.

ttystikk · Apr 10, 2012

GanjaAL said:
yea the wings are mounted directly to the rail itself which I hope there is not that much heat transfer from the back of the wings... though the back is not touching the rings are still touching and I believe they are aluminum which is a great heat conductor. I will have to get a temp gun once they have juice to see what temps they put out. I have to run new cords as the originals were to short.

Even at this I don't think you're taking any risks, heat wise. Paper needs to get to Fahrenheit 451 (thank you, Ray Bradbury!) to burn. The biggest risk is if your wiring is faulty, because that's going to be a potential conductive pathway to ground. Even here I don't think it's a big concern if you've done your wiring homework and properly grounded everything. After all, it's on the ceiling- if it gets wet up there, you got bigger problems than heat transfer, bro! ;)

GanjaAL · Apr 10, 2012

Hooking up the same color wires as they were attached. Just adding a longer cord.... since my back is killing doing that rail system by my self... what a bitch that was.... I may just have my buddy who is an electrician do it for good measure.

Not to bad as I am only off on one side by a 1/4"....LOL. ahahahaha. I said screw messing with it.

Yea... this is a rail that moves up and down on a hand crank... no wiring. Just pulling the old lamp cord and replacing it with a longer one. I plan on zip tying the cord to the rail so they do not rest on the wings themselves.

hiboy · Apr 10, 2012

GanjaAL said:
Hey brother... I ran a rail system on a pully for my lights. They are adjust a wings and was wondering is there any kind of insolation for the cords as the rail is metal and I am sure there will be heat transfer... can you suggest anything?

Thanks and will post some pics when I get the chance. I got the hand crank gator one.

I once looked into those gator cranks, pretty kewl but i couldnt use them cause there was a 12" drop from the ceiling where the motor is installed. It ruined my clearance.
About your cords, i believe the coating the wires are ran in is suitable for some heat. You could zip tie the cords out of the way, thats what i do
hb

GanjaAL · Apr 11, 2012

Thanks brother... yea the rings on the wings give about an 1" to 1.5" clearence from the back of the wings themselves and are the only point of contact on the rail I am using and the 14 gauge lamp cords will be ziped to the top of the rail. Like you said... it should be good. Will get pics up. It worked out great as the 10' rail fit nice and center on the 14' length of the room and was able to fit 3 wings with a min of 16" clearence between the wings themselves and 25.5" clearence on each side to the wall. I got the hand crank one and to be honest is bad ass as now my broke ass does not have to lug a latter to move chains....LOL.

Thanks again for all the input brother... also everone else who chimed in too. Gave me a little peace of mind.

hiboy · Apr 11, 2012

GanjaAL said:
Thanks brother... yea the rings on the wings give about an 1" to 1.5" clearence from the back of the wings themselves and are the only point of contact on the rail I am using and the 14 gauge lamp cords will be ziped to the top of the rail. Like you said... it should be good. Will get pics up. It worked out great as the 10' rail fit nice and center on the 14' length of the room and was able to fit 3 wings with a min of 16" clearence between the wings themselves and 25.5" clearence on each side to the wall. I got the hand crank one and to be honest is bad ass as now my broke ass does not have to lug a latter to move chains....LOL.

Thanks again for all the input brother... also everone else who chimed in too. Gave me a little peace of mind.

That rail system is a great idea with the Gator Garage hand crank, I was going for the motorized one, didnt use it and probalby should of got the one u got. Instead i put up individual raisers which isnt too kewl, Lets c a pic when u have a chance
hb

SodaLicious · Apr 12, 2012

Thanks for starting such a great thread. Lots of real good info. My question is...

I have an intake fan that brings in fresh air, I want to control this by a thermostat. I want the fan to come on when the room gets above a set temp, and off when it cools to another set temp. how can this be done. Will a line voltage cooling thermostat work?

hiboy · Apr 12, 2012

SodaLicious said:
Thanks for starting such a great thread. Lots of real good info. My question is...

I have an intake fan that brings in fresh air, I want to control this by a thermostat. I want the fan to come on when the room gets above a set temp, and off when it cools to another set temp. how can this be done. Will a line voltage cooling thermostat work?

Thanks for checking in,
Yes u got it thats one way to make it work, line volt thermostat that controls and outlet which u can plug in what u want operated, heater or cooler, or fan
Its also possible to do it with low voltage contactors but i think ur way would be the simplest
hb

SodaLicious · Apr 12, 2012

hiboy said:
Thanks for checking in,
Yes u got it thats one way to make it work, line volt thermostat that controls and outlet which u can plug in what u want operated, heater or cooler, or fan
Its also possible to do it with low voltage contactors but i think ur way would be the simplest
hb

Low voltage seems confusing to me. Is there a certain type of t-stat that I need to have 2 set points, a low and high?

hiboy · Apr 13, 2012

SodaLicious said:
Low voltage seems confusing to me. Is there a certain type of t-stat that I need to have 2 set points, a low and high?

Low voltage meaning a regular thermostat which is usually 24v which would activate a 24v contactor coil for ur high volt equipment.
Stick with what u suggested, a line voltage contactor which would be 120v input and 120v output to activate ur fan
hb

SodaLicious · Apr 13, 2012

hiboy said:
Low voltage meaning a regular thermostat which is usually 24v which would activate a 24v contactor coil for ur high volt equipment.
Stick with what u suggested, a line voltage contactor which would be 120v input and 120v output to activate ur fan
hb

Still is there a certain type of t-stat that I should be looking for that has 2 set points. The way I understand a normal t-stat is that when the temps fall below certain set point, t-stat comes on. But when it gets too hot I want it to come on, and when it gets too cold I want it to shut off.

fishwhistle · Apr 13, 2012

GanjaAL said:
Thanks brother... yea the rings on the wings give about an 1" to 1.5" clearence from the back of the wings themselves and are the only point of contact on the rail I am using and the 14 gauge lamp cords will be ziped to the top of the rail. Like you said... it should be good. Will get pics up. It worked out great as the 10' rail fit nice and center on the 14' length of the room and was able to fit 3 wings with a min of 16" clearence between the wings themselves and 25.5" clearence on each side to the wall. I got the hand crank one and to be honest is bad ass as now my broke ass does not have to lug a latter to move chains....LOL.

Thanks again for all the input brother... also everone else who chimed in too. Gave me a little peace of mind.

Hell Yeah al id like to see a pic too,that looks like it might work well in my 12x12 rooms.How long is the length of that bar?

GanjaAL · Apr 13, 2012

It is one of those comercial electical c channel bars that are about 10' long. I used U bolts on the c channel so the hooks could hook on to them. Though it is not perfect and had I had more help than just myself it could have been better. One side is a 1/4" from center and one side is an 1.5" higher than the other in the max height position which to be honest... I am not sure these will make a difference. I am a finish plumber by trade and these little offsets bug me....LOL. I will try and get pics up... just trying to get a feel for the new sight and posting pics which to be honest I may have to resize which has been a while since I have had to mess with pics. For me this rail really helps and cuts down on the pain in the ass factor...ahahahahaha.

P.S. one must also consider that at max height position I am 16"(bottom of the bulb) from the lid so you will have to adjust if you use tables. I plan to have my pots about 6-9 inches off the ground for the DTW.

hiboy · Apr 13, 2012

SodaLicious said:
Still is there a certain type of t-stat that I should be looking for that has 2 set points. The way I understand a normal t-stat is that when the temps fall below certain set point, t-stat comes on. But when it gets too hot I want it to come on, and when it gets too cold I want it to shut off.

http://www.amazon.com/LuxPro-Line-Voltage-Thermostat-Cool/dp/B000E7BTFO
This one would work i believe. Says its for cool only, and the reviews had some silimilar applications as your
hb

hiboy · Apr 13, 2012

GanjaAL said:
It is one of those comercial electical c channel bars that are about 10' long. I used U bolts on the c channel so the hooks could hook on to them. Though it is not perfect and had I had more help than just myself it could have been better. One side is a 1/4" from center and one side is an 1.5" higher than the other in the max height position which to be honest... I am not sure these will make a difference. I am a finish plumber by trade and these little offsets bug me....LOL. I will try and get pics up... just trying to get a feel for the new sight and posting pics which to be honest I may have to resize which has been a while since I have had to mess with pics. For me this rail really helps and cuts down on the pain in the ass factor...ahahahahaha.

P.S. one must also consider that at max height position I am 16"(bottom of the bulb) from the lid so you will have to adjust if you use tables. I plan to have my pots about 6-9 inches off the ground for the DTW.

Lol bro u drooped that hanger like its a waste line.. That small difference wont matter for you, if you have trellace netting or stakes you could just tie down any higher or long colas
hb

hiboy · Apr 13, 2012

fishwhistle said:
Hell Yeah al id like to see a pic too,that looks like it might work well in my 12x12 rooms.How long is the length of that bar?

I was onto something similiar but didnt go thru with it. I was going to attach a 10' pipe below the bar that comes with the lift to extend it. U bolts just like he said
hb

evu80 · Apr 13, 2012

Hiboy

is there a proper way to apply nolax onto the copper and aluminum wires? The main wire that feeds power is aluminum and the new wire is copper. I was able to tie them together through the lugs but forgot to apply it. Do I have to take main line apart to apply the nolax or can just squirt a bit on the lugs and call it a night

Grow Room Electrical

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hiboy

SodaLicious

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SodaLicious

fishwhistle

GanjaAL

hiboy

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