Grow Room Electrical

TrichGnome · Feb 10, 2018

Thanks so much for this incredibly helpful thread. I read through some of it but there’s a looot here, so I apologize if my question has already been answered.

I’m looking for the easiest way to increase the electrical capacity in my grow room. Last winter, I was running 2000w HPS in my flower room and 1000w MH in veg, plus fans, cooling etc. I was sharing a 30 amp circuit with my washer for the two HPS lights, and running extension cords every which way for the rest of it.

I understand that I would almost double my capacity if I ran my grow room at 240v. What’s the easiest way to accomplish this? Is there a transformer I could buy that plugs into my regular outlet that my washer goes into (30 amp circuit), but would step up to 240 volts? All of my gear has standard US plugs that fit into standard grounded outlets. I’ve done some googling but I’m still confused. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

-J

Dan789 · Feb 10, 2018

Sorry, electricity just doesn’t work like that. Any transforming into a higher, (in this case 2X multiple of the 120 volt line voltage) would still use the same amount of energy/wattage. The existing circuits only have a limited (ampacity) capacity, you’ll need the assistance of an electrical professional to enact the fix necessary.

TrichGnome · Feb 10, 2018

Dan789 said:
Sorry, electricity just doesn’t work like that. Any transforming into a higher, (in this case 2X multiple of the 120 volt line voltage) would still use the same amount of energy/wattage. The existing circuits only have a limited (ampacity) capacity, you’ll need the assistance of an electrical professional to enact the fix necessary.

Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!

Dan789 · Feb 10, 2018

TrichGnome said:
Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!

It depends on what you have existing, if you’ve got any available space in your panel now, would determine what to do next.

TrichGnome · Feb 10, 2018

Dan789 said:
It depends on what you have existing, if you’ve got any available space in your panel now, would determine what to do next.

No, it doesn’t look like I do. All the circuits are labeled. It may be that one or more is unused. I’m sure once I find a good electrician he’ll know the best way forward. Thanks again man!

Dan789 · Feb 10, 2018

No problems, he’ll be able to either find a two pole load to move into the new sub panel, or like you said maybe something isn’t being used, like a range or water heater that might just be gas instead of electric.

Kot · Feb 18, 2018

Hi all. Can you please help me with my problem.

I've installed a 1000 watt HPS the way it is show in this picture.

And this is the wiring to the reflector, maybe the problem is here?

So the bulb is working perfectly for 15 minutes and then just stops. The ignitor keeps on buzzing as normal and the core of the bulb is orange so it has some power to it but there is no light. I switch the power off and the bulb goes completely off then wait a few minutes start the bulb again and it works 15 minutes and shuts down again. What could be the problem?

Kot · Feb 18, 2018

I've changed the bulb, ballast and igniter but the same happens. It works actually for about 5 minutes not 15.

PharmHand · Feb 18, 2018

Kot said:
Hi all. Can you please help me with my problem.

I've installed a 1000 watt HPS the way it is show in this picture.

And this is the wiring to the reflector, maybe the problem is here?

View attachment 779100

So the bulb is working perfectly for 15 minutes and then just stops. The ignitor keeps on buzzing as normal and the core of the bulb is orange so it has some power to it but there is no light. I switch the power off and the bulb goes completely off then wait a few minutes start the bulb again and it works 15 minutes and shuts down again. What could be the problem?

That's an odd looking ballast. Old stadium light ballast? Is that white thing the ignitor? Is there a capacitor somewhere? Could be your problem if there's no capacitor

Kot · Feb 18, 2018

PharmHand said:
That's an odd looking ballast. Old stadium light ballast? Is that white thing the ignitor? Is there a capacitor somewhere? Could be your problem if there's no capacitor

Yes, this is the ignitor. I've changed the wiring to the reflector to blue with white and brown with black but still the same problem. There is no capacitor. I had no problems running the same system on 400 watt bulb before but maybe 1000 watts require capacitor?

Dan789 · Feb 18, 2018

:
Here’s what I just goggled for hps ballast wiring diagram. Looks like you’ve got a few pieces not indicated.

Kennedyfarm · Feb 18, 2018

TrichGnome said:
Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!

Hey trich. It's not as scary as it sounds. My suggestions to your electrical friend. Use good bx wire. The steel insulated stuff. Buy a roll and keep the extra. Also don't buy cheap white house wire for your 120. Just use the extra oversized BX you just bought. Install a 40 amp digital timer for the lights. Run an extra and separate wire for your 120 volt stuff and oversize them both. Use a 30 instead of a 20 amp. Then you can really pull those extra amps.. Also if you want to get it ALL. Turn everything in your house ON. Then Get him to test the amount your using. You can run the wire yourself just leave the guy an extra foot of wire. To save some money you can also cut the plugs off the ballast wire and just hardwire them into the timer. I suggest you also use junction boxes coming out of the timer then make the connection. It can be sloppy inside the timer housing.

Cost break down. Real appx
BX roll 10/2 $200
40 amp timer $60
Breaker $20-40
No plug cost $0
240 plugs $30
Junction boxes $30
Tape,zip strips, covers $30

I would not pay more then $100 to change a breaker. A bad electrician can do it in 5 minutes. With the joint in hand. So don't get ripped off. Remember his time is money. So if you run the wires and make it all nice you'll save money and have it done your way.

Freshone · Feb 18, 2018

Kennedyfarm said:
Hey trich. It's not as scary as it sounds. My suggestions to your electrical friend. Use good bx wire. The steel insulated stuff. Buy a roll and keep the extra. Also don't buy cheap white house wire for your 120. Just use the extra oversized BX you just bought. Install a 40 amp digital timer for the lights. Run an extra and separate wire for your 120 volt stuff and oversize them both. Use a 30 instead of a 20 amp. Then you can really pull those extra amps.. Also if you want to get it ALL. Turn everything in your house ON. Then Get him to test the amount your using. You can run the wire yourself just leave the guy an extra foot of wire. To save some money you can also cut the plugs off the ballast wire and just hardwire them into the timer. I suggest you also use junction boxes coming out of the timer then make the connection. It can be sloppy inside the timer housing.

Cost break down. Real appx
BX roll 10/2 $200
40 amp timer $60
Breaker $20-40
No plug cost $0
240 plugs $30
Junction boxes $30
Tape,zip strips, covers $30

I would not pay more then $100 to change a breaker. A bad electrician can do it in 5 minutes. With the joint in hand. So don't get ripped off. Remember his time is money. So if you run the wires and make it all nice you'll save money and have it done your way.

Nice Doo by the way...

Kot · Feb 19, 2018

Kot said:
Hi all. Can you please help me with my problem.

I've installed a 1000 watt HPS the way it is show in this picture.

And this is the wiring to the reflector, maybe the problem is here?

View attachment 779100

So the bulb is working perfectly for 15 minutes and then just stops. The ignitor keeps on buzzing as normal and the core of the bulb is orange so it has some power to it but there is no light. I switch the power off and the bulb goes completely off then wait a few minutes start the bulb again and it works 15 minutes and shuts down again. What could be the problem?

An electirian told me my wiring in the way it should be.

I've tried everything, new reflector, new ignitor, new ballast, tried even the old reflector, tried new bulbs and all of them work for one minute then when the light starts to be more bright flickering starts and after 5 seconds the light disappears. Maybe its the bulbs Hortilux Super HPS which have to be new but the glass has marks on it and when I start them they are making sound every 5-15 seconds.

PharmHand · Feb 19, 2018

Kot said:
An electirian told me my wiring in the way it should be.

I've tried everything, new reflector, new ignitor, new ballast, tried even the old reflector, tried new bulbs and all of them work for one minute then when the light starts to be more bright flickering starts and after 5 seconds the light disappears. Maybe its the bulbs Hortilux Super HPS which have to be new but the glass has marks on it and when I start them they are making sound every 5-15 seconds.

I've wired quite a few of the old core and coil style ballasts over the years and typically with HPS there's the main core/coil piece, a capacitor and an ignitor. With MH it's typically just the core/coil piece and a capacitor. I used to work for a street lighting company and salvaged my share of old fixtures and typically the only thing that goes wrong on them is the capacitors. It will start to bulge a little on the top of the capacitor before it fully goes but replace it and it runs as good as new. I've seen combination capacitor/ ignitors but only on the lower wattage ballasts like 150w and 250w any bigger and they were always separate. You're sure that's a 1000w HPS ballast? What's the make? Was it working prior? The Hortilux HPS bulbs were designed to run on coil n core magnetic style ballasts. Maybe the capacitor is inside your ballast case, if you're able to open it and check/replace it might be the ticket

Kot · Feb 19, 2018

PharmHand said:
I've wired quite a few of the old core and coil style ballasts over the years and typically with HPS there's the main core/coil piece, a capacitor and an ignitor. With MH it's typically just the core/coil piece and a capacitor. I used to work for a street lighting company and salvaged my share of old fixtures and typically the only thing that goes wrong on them is the capacitors. It will start to bulge a little on the top of the capacitor before it fully goes but replace it and it runs as good as new. I've seen combination capacitor/ ignitors but only on the lower wattage ballasts like 150w and 250w any bigger and they were always separate. You're sure that's a 1000w HPS ballast? What's the make? Was it working prior? The Hortilux HPS bulbs were designed to run on coil n core magnetic style ballasts. Maybe the capacitor is inside your ballast case, if you're able to open it and check/replace it might be the ticket

The ballast is 1000 watts for sure, its bulgarian made. This is the scheme

My ballast is 22v 50 hz and for the one minute in which the bulb is working it does not get even slightly warmer than it was before turning on, is that normal? The bulb specs are those, it says 250 v.

And this is the ignitor

Dan789 · Feb 19, 2018

Kot said:
An electirian told me my wiring in the way it should be.

I've tried everything, new reflector, new ignitor, new ballast, tried even the old reflector, tried new bulbs and all of them work for one minute then when the light starts to be more bright flickering starts and after 5 seconds the light disappears. Maybe its the bulbs Hortilux Super HPS which have to be new but the glass has marks on it and when I start them they are making sound every 5-15 seconds.

Just curious whats your supply voltage? Should it be 240volts?

Kot · Feb 19, 2018

Dan789 said:
Just curious whats your supply voltage? Should it be 240volts?

No idea, it should be standard 220 volts.

Dan789 · Feb 19, 2018

Kot said:
No idea, it should be standard 220 volts.

Unless your in a rural area, the standard US voltage is 120/240. Was just wondering (if that was the problem) if you were using insufficient voltage.

PharmHand · Feb 19, 2018

Kot said:
The ballast is 1000 watts for sure, its bulgarian made. This is the scheme View attachment 779460

My ballast is 22v 50 hz and for the one minute in which the bulb is working it does not get even slightly warmer than it was before turning on, is that normal? The bulb specs are those, it says 250 v.View attachment 779461

And this is the ignitor View attachment 779464

From your pic I found this
One of those is your capacitor one is ignitor. You have both pieces as well as core?

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