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TrichGnome
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Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!Sorry, electricity just doesn’t work like that. Any transforming into a higher, (in this case 2X multiple of the 120 volt line voltage) would still use the same amount of energy/wattage. The existing circuits only have a limited (ampacity) capacity, you’ll need the assistance of an electrical professional to enact the fix necessary.
It depends on what you have existing, if you’ve got any available space in your panel now, would determine what to do next.Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!
No, it doesn’t look like I do. All the circuits are labeled. It may be that one or more is unused. I’m sure once I find a good electrician he’ll know the best way forward. Thanks again man!It depends on what you have existing, if you’ve got any available space in your panel now, would determine what to do next.
That's an odd looking ballast. Old stadium light ballast? Is that white thing the ignitor? Is there a capacitor somewhere? Could be your problem if there's no capacitorHi all. Can you please help me with my problem.
I've installed a 1000 watt HPS the way it is show in this picture.
And this is the wiring to the reflector, maybe the problem is here?
View attachment 779100
So the bulb is working perfectly for 15 minutes and then just stops. The ignitor keeps on buzzing as normal and the core of the bulb is orange so it has some power to it but there is no light. I switch the power off and the bulb goes completely off then wait a few minutes start the bulb again and it works 15 minutes and shuts down again. What could be the problem?
Yes, this is the ignitor. I've changed the wiring to the reflector to blue with white and brown with black but still the same problem. There is no capacitor. I had no problems running the same system on 400 watt bulb before but maybe 1000 watts require capacitor?That's an odd looking ballast. Old stadium light ballast? Is that white thing the ignitor? Is there a capacitor somewhere? Could be your problem if there's no capacitor
Hey trich. It's not as scary as it sounds. My suggestions to your electrical friend. Use good bx wire. The steel insulated stuff. Buy a roll and keep the extra. Also don't buy cheap white house wire for your 120. Just use the extra oversized BX you just bought. Install a 40 amp digital timer for the lights. Run an extra and separate wire for your 120 volt stuff and oversize them both. Use a 30 instead of a 20 amp. Then you can really pull those extra amps.. Also if you want to get it ALL. Turn everything in your house ON. Then Get him to test the amount your using. You can run the wire yourself just leave the guy an extra foot of wire. To save some money you can also cut the plugs off the ballast wire and just hardwire them into the timer. I suggest you also use junction boxes coming out of the timer then make the connection. It can be sloppy inside the timer housing.Yea, that’s kind of what I thought. So what would you recommend I ask the electrician? Can he just add a couple of 240v circuits to an existing panel? Run a sub panel? Thanks for the reply!
Nice Doo by the way...Hey trich. It's not as scary as it sounds. My suggestions to your electrical friend. Use good bx wire. The steel insulated stuff. Buy a roll and keep the extra. Also don't buy cheap white house wire for your 120. Just use the extra oversized BX you just bought. Install a 40 amp digital timer for the lights. Run an extra and separate wire for your 120 volt stuff and oversize them both. Use a 30 instead of a 20 amp. Then you can really pull those extra amps.. Also if you want to get it ALL. Turn everything in your house ON. Then Get him to test the amount your using. You can run the wire yourself just leave the guy an extra foot of wire. To save some money you can also cut the plugs off the ballast wire and just hardwire them into the timer. I suggest you also use junction boxes coming out of the timer then make the connection. It can be sloppy inside the timer housing.
Cost break down. Real appx
BX roll 10/2 $200
40 amp timer $60
Breaker $20-40
No plug cost $0
240 plugs $30
Junction boxes $30
Tape,zip strips, covers $30
I would not pay more then $100 to change a breaker. A bad electrician can do it in 5 minutes. With the joint in hand. So don't get ripped off. Remember his time is money. So if you run the wires and make it all nice you'll save money and have it done your way.
Hi all. Can you please help me with my problem.
I've installed a 1000 watt HPS the way it is show in this picture.
And this is the wiring to the reflector, maybe the problem is here?
View attachment 779100
So the bulb is working perfectly for 15 minutes and then just stops. The ignitor keeps on buzzing as normal and the core of the bulb is orange so it has some power to it but there is no light. I switch the power off and the bulb goes completely off then wait a few minutes start the bulb again and it works 15 minutes and shuts down again. What could be the problem?
I've wired quite a few of the old core and coil style ballasts over the years and typically with HPS there's the main core/coil piece, a capacitor and an ignitor. With MH it's typically just the core/coil piece and a capacitor. I used to work for a street lighting company and salvaged my share of old fixtures and typically the only thing that goes wrong on them is the capacitors. It will start to bulge a little on the top of the capacitor before it fully goes but replace it and it runs as good as new. I've seen combination capacitor/ ignitors but only on the lower wattage ballasts like 150w and 250w any bigger and they were always separate. You're sure that's a 1000w HPS ballast? What's the make? Was it working prior? The Hortilux HPS bulbs were designed to run on coil n core magnetic style ballasts. Maybe the capacitor is inside your ballast case, if you're able to open it and check/replace it might be the ticketAn electirian told me my wiring in the way it should be.
I've tried everything, new reflector, new ignitor, new ballast, tried even the old reflector, tried new bulbs and all of them work for one minute then when the light starts to be more bright flickering starts and after 5 seconds the light disappears. Maybe its the bulbs Hortilux Super HPS which have to be new but the glass has marks on it and when I start them they are making sound every 5-15 seconds.
The ballast is 1000 watts for sure, its bulgarian made. This is the schemeI've wired quite a few of the old core and coil style ballasts over the years and typically with HPS there's the main core/coil piece, a capacitor and an ignitor. With MH it's typically just the core/coil piece and a capacitor. I used to work for a street lighting company and salvaged my share of old fixtures and typically the only thing that goes wrong on them is the capacitors. It will start to bulge a little on the top of the capacitor before it fully goes but replace it and it runs as good as new. I've seen combination capacitor/ ignitors but only on the lower wattage ballasts like 150w and 250w any bigger and they were always separate. You're sure that's a 1000w HPS ballast? What's the make? Was it working prior? The Hortilux HPS bulbs were designed to run on coil n core magnetic style ballasts. Maybe the capacitor is inside your ballast case, if you're able to open it and check/replace it might be the ticket
Just curious whats your supply voltage? Should it be 240volts?An electirian told me my wiring in the way it should be.
I've tried everything, new reflector, new ignitor, new ballast, tried even the old reflector, tried new bulbs and all of them work for one minute then when the light starts to be more bright flickering starts and after 5 seconds the light disappears. Maybe its the bulbs Hortilux Super HPS which have to be new but the glass has marks on it and when I start them they are making sound every 5-15 seconds.
No idea, it should be standard 220 volts.Just curious whats your supply voltage? Should it be 240volts?
Unless your in a rural area, the standard US voltage is 120/240. Was just wondering (if that was the problem) if you were using insufficient voltage.No idea, it should be standard 220 volts.
From your pic I found thisThe ballast is 1000 watts for sure, its bulgarian made. This is the scheme View attachment 779460
My ballast is 22v 50 hz and for the one minute in which the bulb is working it does not get even slightly warmer than it was before turning on, is that normal? The bulb specs are those, it says 250 v.View attachment 779461
And this is the ignitor View attachment 779464
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