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Sirbuddingtonthe1st
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The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.Before noticing any issues, I bumped up the lighting to 6. Some time later I started noticing the yellowing in between the veins. I was thinking it had something to do with the lighting so I dropped it to 4.
The other plant started showing similar issues a few days later. I checked my ph in my soil and came up with 7-7.5. My water is now balanced at 6.0 and I have been giving it calmer thinking that it may be a magnesium deficiency. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.
I will have to start doing that. Thanks!My plants don't seem to need much calcium but they do need a lot of magnesium, so I add Epsom Salt to my water till after the stretch.
What ratios do you use? I would like to do this.I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower.
Big lights that are bar style I notice pull more magnesium from the plants as they grow. So you will want to use a cal mag nutrient bottle mix. The reason why is magnesium and calcium have a direct relation in terms of amounts that should be in soil. If one is fed but not the other it will cause a nutrient deficiency.I forgot to put in the post that I started using cal mag about a week ago. Someone else mentioned that the leaves that were already affected wouldn’t change back so that would explain why the the new leaves look better.
The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or I was expecting that the yellowing leaves would turn green again. It does look like the newer leaves are good.
Thanks for the comment. I will be adding this to my routine. I didn't realize there was such a difference between indoor and outdoor when it comes to nutrients.My plants don't seem to need much calcium but they do need a lot of magnesium, so I add Epsom Salt to my water till after the stretch.
Oh, the yellowed parts won't turn green again? I think that is where I went wrong. I was expecting those leaves to turn green again. Thank you, I appreciate the help!The yellowing is often magnesium deficiency, but there can be other causes. The yellowed parts won't turn green again, so it's necessary to watch the new leaves to see if they're yellowing or not.
I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower
Good to know, I will have to be more proactive with the calmag.Big lights that are bar style I notice pull more magnesium from the plants as they grow. So you will want to use a cal mag nutrient bottle mix. The reason why is magnesium and calcium have a direct relation in terms of amounts that should be in soil. If one is fed but not the other it will cause a nutrient deficiency.
What ratios do you use? I would like to do this.
Glad do hear we followed a similar path lol! I never really thought about the correlation between light and nutrients until this happened so it has been an excellent learning experience.just had my plants looking like that (also learned the harder way) I had moved them outside under their bigger light. only watering no nutrients before that. So the lights turned my plants into super eaters and they were already starving lol. They were also exhibiting signs of light stress so i raised the light “a ton”, and added a cal-mag to the nutrients, they look a lot better. Nice job on watching and noticing your plants change after your light power increase!
Thanks! I'm going to try this as well.Fast absorption calcium from egg shells.
Like with the lentil fertilizer, I was doing a batch of calcium for foliar or soil feeding and I decided to post the process here because it might be helpful for some people, wether because they have a sudden calcium deficiency, they want to give only calcium without magnessium or its a big...www.thcfarmer.com
I use 1000:1. Metric system is a bit easier 1 ml per liter. 3ml per gallon.What ratios do you use? I would like to do this.
Do you do this with all your plants? Or do you add these when you see deficiencies? Love that you make your own. I bought some calmag. The container is trash. Everytime you pour from it, it goes everywhere but the intended cup. I'd rather make my own too. I use epsom salt for my ferns and peppers. I've saved the post about extracting the calcium from the egg shells.I don’t use calmag ever. I add calcium and magnesium separately. Epson salt for magnesium and water soluble calcium for calcium. It’s cooked eggshells desolved in vinegar. I would add a little epson salt desolve in water. Then start pushing them. Get that light up to 7 then flip to flower.
Just an Observation: why the 2 different growing mediums? this complicates things, watering/nutrient issues, dry-backs etc. Pick a Media and learn it, eliminate the variables in your grow. Current Issue Magnesium.
I would recommend Coco. Soil is for Outdoors. (25% faster growth, easy to remedy issues by flush and fill with corrective nutrient solutions) stronger healthier plants, If you need tips/tricks starting with Coco DM me. With Coco you mix the solutions, and water to run-off, you read your run-off, and mix new solutions based on run-off, you will know "exactly" what's in your soil/media at all times, this gives you "process control"! no more wingin it! (over 15 years Coco/Hydro Grower)
Also if using 5 gal buckets, the sides should be drilled with1/2" holes this helps add Oxygen to the rhizo, also helps with drainage and dry-backs(capillary action) so you dont end up with soggy roots. (Oxygen in the root zone is very important)!Plastic Pots Suck they stay wet too long. Cheap fabric pots will work better. The link for fabric pots, these are great and they are squat(9.9" x 12.5") and hold almost 6 gal of coco. (cheap and gives you head room in your tents) https://a.co/d/iNcMNo8
Rig
Just an Observation: why the 2 different growing mediums? this complicates things, watering/nutrient issues, dry-backs etc. Pick a Media and learn it, eliminate the variables in your grow. Current Issue Magnesium.
I would recommend Coco. Soil is for Outdoors. (25% faster growth, easy to remedy issues by flush and fill with corrective nutrient solutions) stronger healthier plants, If you need tips/tricks starting with Coco DM me. With Coco you mix the solutions, and water to run-off, you read your run-off, and mix new solutions based on run-off, you will know "exactly" what's in your soil/media at all times, this gives you "process control"! no more wingin it! (over 15 years Coco/Hydro Grower)
Also if using 5 gal buckets, the sides should be drilled with1/2" holes this helps add Oxygen to the rhizo, also helps with drainage and dry-backs(capillary action) so you dont end up with soggy roots. (Oxygen in the root zone is very important)!Plastic Pots Suck they stay wet too long. Cheap fabric pots will work better. The link for fabric pots, these are great and they are squat(9.9" x 12.5") and hold almost 6 gal of coco. (cheap and gives you head room in your tents) https://a.co/d/iNcMNo8
Right On!
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