DirtyDave1990
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Any chance you could snap a pic or two without the blurple light on? Really hard to see under those. So far I’ve yet to see anything that resembles male parts. I see two sacks, but can verify if they’re male or female.Yeah after more research last night and then closer examination of the plant it’s definitely a bud. I’m pretty upset about it. But I’ll just keep spraying and praying
Any chance you could snap a pic or two without the blurple light on? Really hard to see under those. So far I’ve yet to see anything that resembles male parts. I see two sacks, but can verify if they’re male or female.
I make my own collided silver, unsure what kind or strength you’re using. It’s said that 30+ppm is needed. I start spray 2 weeks leading up to flip and the first two weeks after flip. By the second week of flower and you don’t see male parts something is wrong with your solution.
I just bought it because it’s pretty cheapHow do you know when you’re above 30ppm when you make your own? I was debating making my own but worry about not getting enough in the solution.
How do you know when you’re above 30ppm when you make your own? I was debating making my own but worry about not getting enough in the solution.
As mentioned above here is a short video. Bet some of you didn’t know that you could snap 3 9 volts togetherthe right way to measure it is “atomic absorption spectroscopy (AAS), optical emission spectroscopy (OES), and inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy (ICP-MS). NIC uses two AAS systems which were selected for the combination of accuracy and efficient operational use to evaluate the silver concentration ranges” stuff I have no access to.
So for me, the average guy, the best way to get an estimate of the PPM of silver in your results is with an EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter. These are readily available from Amazon. Measure the EC of your results, and multiply that by 1.1 — it’s as simple as that or so the web says.
If you already have a TDS meter, you can use that; the resolution is not as good, but if you multipy your TDS reading by 2.5, you will get a reasonable approximation of the colloidal silver PPM. I’ve read conflicting articles that this is a poor choice as tool to measure and also inaccurate.
I also use a cheap laser pointer viewing the tyndal effect. Reference “
The red laser line shows a dense, but not sparkly 'Tyndall effect' proving the presence of abundant very small particles.(Sparkles would indicate large particles.)
The Tyndall Effect (TE) is a visual indication of the presence of silver particles in the colloidal silver. Under a bright focused beam of light the normally invisible silver particles in the colloidal silver become visible as tiny points of light suspended in the water - even though in ordinary daylight the CS appears perfectly clear. With practice the Tyndall Effect is a visual guide to the type of CS you are making. (Whether you have numerous very small particles, mixed fine and coarse (sparkling) particles, or mainly coarse particles). For example, clear CS with a dense satin red line indicates abundant fine particles. (i.e. really nice CS, as per the Silver Well sample at left.)
Note: The Tyndall Effect is the simplest indicator of the presence of tiny silver particles but it does not reveal ions. TDS and PWT meters measure the ions but conversely they cannot detect the particles.”
In short, I have no exact measurement of how much or how large the particles are, but I do know my method works and the only cost is really the silver bars themselves and 3x 9 volt batteries. It does not really burn my plants (on occasion it has) as I’ve refined my process through trial and error so it rarely burns my plants now. I’ll put together a short video of how I do this, and how long I let this process go as well as my current male plant in which I used my own creation to reverse a female. I need about an hour (still pretending to work)
I use 2 silver bars, wire with alligator clips, a drinking glass, distilled water and three 9 volt batteries. I let this process go for 2 hours. After that, I simply add to a small spray bottle without diluting and spray the sh!t out of areas of the plant where bud sites will be.
Note - you don’t have to use 27 volts, you can use lower or slightly higher. The lower voltage will need to process longer periods to get the affect you need. I found 2 hours with 27 volts was more than enough to get the job done. Also important to not let the bars touch each other while being charged in the distilled water
Thanks bud. I was looking at silver wire, which would be the same I suppose. I’ve seen many folks say to get the 99.999% pure. For our purposes, I can’t imagine that being a huge deal. I just want seeds after all.
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